2007 Same Silver 130 - Service questions

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Evening all
I'm about to service the Silver for the first time, but there are a few things I want to check before I really get into it. I've finally purchased a workshop manual, but it only covers dry clutch models with a manual synchro shuttle, and all the filter types and locations for the back end are wrong. I haven't got an owners/maintenance manual yet, but half of that will probably be wrong so there's probably not much point getting one.

2007 Same Silver 130
Power shuttle (is this what they call Hydrive?)
6 speed synchro box with 3 stage powershift (Agroshift?)

1: Is it OK to drain the engine coolant from drain plug on the bottom of the oil cooler/heat exchanger? Or is there a better place to drain the block?

2: What's the thing in the photo? (red arrow). It's bolted to the side of the transmission and has wiring in the top of it going to a 3 pin super seal connector.

3: I've found a drain plug for the transmission (green circle), on the side of this same housing there's a level/fill plug. I assume there's another drain plug for the back end under the belly pan. There's a fill/level plug at the back next to the PTO, there's also a dipstick in the LH trumpet. Is there any particular way to re-fill these or is it all interconnected? Also, is the fluid level still checked with the engine off?

4: What happens if I pull the other drain plug out? (blue circle). I thought this housing would be dry, it doesn't have any other level plugs on the sides that I can see. But I've noticed it's got a hydraulic line block thing bolted to the side of it (yellow circle) and it's got the front driveshaft coming out of it.

5: It's got 3 cartridge filters for the trans/power steering/hydraulic lift/whatever. One big one by the RH rear wheel which looks to come out of one of the pumps, two smaller ones by the LH rear wheel which I think come out of the other pump. It looks to have a big ugly inline style filter on the suction pipe to the two hydraulic pumps, this is held on with silicone/rubber couplers and hose clamps, a real ass of an idea. Is there anything special I should know about these? I've only worked on tractors with spin on filters.

6: UTTO all round, right? (except the engine).

 

[mayos]

2. Radar

not sure on the rest...

 

[box]

2. Radar

I would never have guessed that, thanks.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Radiator should have a plug in the bottom to drain coolant. Use coolant not water and anti freeze.

As it’s a powershuttle the front casing is full of oil aswell. Remove both to fully drain the oil. Fill back up using filler plug under tool box. All the rear axle is same oil if it’s a Silver 130. Use the dipstick or sight glass if fitted to check level. Check with engine off after running it to fill all filters etc. From memory it should have two screw on filters for hydraulics and steering and a pressure fikter element in a casing. It will also have the inline one you mention. Nothing special about them, if it’s painted it’s never been changed!!!

Yes, UTTO in rear axle and front axle and hubs. ATF in brake system and pre mixed coolant as it’s a wet liner engine.

 

[Bury the Trash]

if there is a toolbox right on the top cover over the main backend oil filler , take it the darn thing off and dont put it back imo. dumb idea to block it /the area even if it is a place where a tool /pin stowage box can go in theory.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

if there is a toolbox right on the top cover over the main backend oil filler , take it the darn thing off and dont put it back imo. dumb idea to block it /the area even if it is a place where a tool /pin stowage box can go in theory.

I’ve never seen them to be a problem there really. They were only a fiddle when we had to fit 6 T pieces behind the QRC for customers to operate front loader off the tractor spools

 

[Mickstup]

Would the ugly inline piece be a resonator not a filter. The smaller tractors had one, don't know about a 130.

 

[Bury the Trash]

I’ve never seen them to be a problem there really. They were only a fiddle when we had to fit 6 T pieces behind the QRC for customers to operate front loader off the tractor spools

yeah some sort of easily detachable is the way to go.
they are in a sort of good place but i replaced my origanal metal one with a plastic one at one point to reduce a particular noise at certain revs but now hes off and i dont put it back on, mainly because atm an assitor ram needs re sealing iyswim.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

yeah some sort of easily detachable is the way to go.
they are in a sort of good place but i replaced my origanal metal one with a plastic one at one point to reduce a particular noise at certain revs but now hes off and i dont put it back on, mainly because atm an assitor ram needs re sealing iyswim.

Unless your using the linkage for heavy stuff now whip the ram off and use an M14 or 16 maybe bolt to clamp the two copper washers onto the banjo coupling to act as a blank, rams are easy to do.

 

[Bury the Trash]

Unless your using the linkage for heavy stuff now whip the ram off and use an M14 or 16 maybe bolt to clamp the two copper washers onto the banjo coupling to act as a blank, rams are easy to do.

yes that did occur to me the other day, ill take it off and get someone to do it when ive finish trimming.the tractor will only be on transport then for awhile.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Would the ugly inline piece be a resonator not a filter. The smaller tractors had one, don't know about a 130.

The steering resonator is fitted higher up just above the steering pump

 

[Mickstup]

The steering resonator is fitted higher up just above the steering pump

Ah, Ok.

 

[box]

Radiator should have a plug in the bottom to drain coolant. Use coolant not water and anti freeze.

As it’s a powershuttle the front casing is full of oil aswell. Remove both to fully drain the oil. Fill back up using filler plug under tool box. All the rear axle is same oil if it’s a Silver 130. Use the dipstick or sight glass if fitted to check level. Check with engine off after running it to fill all filters etc. From memory it should have two screw on filters for hydraulics and steering and a pressure fikter element in a casing. It will also have the inline one you mention. Nothing special about them, if it’s painted it’s never been changed!!!

Yes, UTTO in rear axle and front axle and hubs. ATF in brake system and pre mixed coolant as it’s a wet liner engine.

Thanks for the info, especially the coolant thing - I've never heard of that before, but a quick google search has enlightened me.

Last question (for now), what's the recommended service interval for trans fluid & filters and tappet adjustment?

 

[Bury the Trash]

Really,? so youve never heard about pourous Fords then

normally transmission oil should be changed at 1200 hour intervals or annually and all those filters with it . .

 

[Cowabunga]

Thanks for the info, especially the coolant thing - I've never heard of that before, but a quick google search has enlightened me.

Last question (for now), what's the recommended service interval for trans fluid & filters and tappet adjustment?

Trans oil and filters, every 1200 to 1500 hours will be fine. Tappets? When they sound tappety or every 5000 hours or so, but no doubt the recommended interval is shorter. Most people hardly ever bother adjusting tappets unless a cylinder or two start sounding off.

You really should get the relevant operator's manual for your model and year of tractor. The linkage controls and radar slip control are not really intuitive on these. There's a lot to learn that you may never figure out without the book of words.

 

[Bury the Trash]

Trans oil and filters, every 1200 to 1500 hours will be fine. Tappets? When they sound tappety or every 5000 hours or so, but no doubt the recommended interval is shorter. Most people hardly ever bother adjusting tappets unless a cylinder or two start sounding off.

You really should get the relevant operator's manual for your model and year of tractor. The linkage controls and radar slip control are not really intuitive on these. There's a lot to learn that you may never figure out without the book of words.

'normally transmission oil should be changed at 1200 hour intervals or annually and all those filters with it . .'

That is actually taken from 'the book of words'
and with plenty of road work and different types of hydraulic implements on and off 1200 could be stretching it ime.

agree about the tappets tho.
but i worked through the electronic linkage intuitively , in practice as i found that easier than trying to understand the manual.

 

[Cowabunga]

'normally transmission oil should be changed at 1200 hour intervals or annually and all those filters with it . .'

That is actually taken from 'the book of words'
and with plenty of road work and different types of hydraulic implements on and off 1200 could be stretching it ime.

agree about the tappets tho.
i worked through the electronic linkage intuitively , in practise i found that easier than trying to understand the manual.

1200 is well within limits for any kind of work these undertake. The front hubs are what gets dirty on road work, due to a limited reservoir, no filtration and dual disc brakes both sides and 1500 would be the limit for these unless the road work was all on the flat. Forget the 'annual' part of the interval altogether unless you like wasting resources and money for no good reason. Every five years is fine at say 300 hours a year. Unless you are especially careless with coupler hygiene or your implements get water in their oil, obviously.
Heavy tillage takes a far greater toll on the oil and transmission generally than any road work.

The engines of these are far less tolerant of extended oil changes. My air cooled Titan, which runs hotter than water cooled versions, certainly doesn't appreciate drain intervals of longer than 150 hours if worked really hard, like on a forage harvester for instance, at full throttle maximum power for hours on end. Even with long drain oils.

 

[Bury the Trash]

1200 is well within limits for any kind of work these undertake. The front hubs are what gets dirty on road work, due to a limited reservoir, no filtration and dual disc brakes both sides. Forget the 'annual' part of the interval altogether unless you like wasting resources and money for no good reason. Every five years is fine at say 300 hours a year. Unless you are especially careless with coupler hygiene or your implements get water in their oil, obviously.
Heavy tillage takes a far greater toll on the oil and transmission generally than any road work.

The engines of these are far less tolerant of extended oil changes. My air cooled Titan, which runs hotter than water cooled versions, certainly doesn't appreciate drain intervals of longer than 150 hours if worked really hard, like on a forage harvester for instance, at full throttle maximum power for hours on end. Even with long drain oils.

i only use the book as a guide except for engine , i change that religiously at approaching 300hrs.

transmission back end i change at about 2 yrs ish and it does about 600 odd hrs a yr so not far off,mind you i will let some out and have a look at it actually ,just to see what it looks like . and watch them warning lights . never had one show trouble tho.

i cant stand driving with dirty oil . engine or anything else.
edit
book says 600 hrs to check tappets

 

[Cowabunga]

i only use the book as a guide except for engine , i change that religiously at approaching 300hrs.

transmission back end i change at about 2 yrs ish and it does about 600 odd hrs a yr so not far off,mind you i will let some out and have a look at it actually ,just to see what it looks like . and watch them warning lights . never had one show trouble tho.

i cant stand driving with dirty oil . engine or anything else.
edit
book says 600 hrs to check tappets

If you check tappets at any multiple of 600 hours less than 5, you are a hero.

 

[Mur Huwcun]

book says tappets at PDI and at 50hr service then I’m sure it’s 1200hrs. If you check them at 5-6000 hrs they won’t move much!!!!! At least a Silver 130 doesn’t need half the engine removed to get at rockers!! 130s were great to work on, plenty of room and access.