2wd tractor front stub axle threads knackered

[Wings on my sleeve]

Changing wheel bearings , stub axle threads worn , have put 2 washers on as a spacer to find good threads.
What's easiest way to repair this properly, can I use a die to cut new threads into old ones , use a slightly smaller nut , or Is there a better way.

 

[two-cylinder]

Are we to assume replacements are not available?

 

[Hay Maker]

Changing wheel bearings , stub axle threads worn , have put 2 washers on as a spacer to find good threads.
What's easiest way to repair this properly, can I use a die to cut new threads into old ones , use a slightly smaller nut , or Is there a better way.

Find A good breakers yard is your best bet as repairing does not usually work due to hardness of metal involved especially in the bearings areas, good luck.

 

[pycoed]

Changing wheel bearings , stub axle threads worn , have put 2 washers on as a spacer to find good threads.
What's easiest way to repair this properly, can I use a die to cut new threads into old ones , use a slightly smaller nut , or Is there a better way.

If you can't remove the stub axle, then its a bodge really. Reducing the thread diameter will be quite tricky. Measure with calipers at the thread roots & the worn area. Hopefully they are not too different. If OK find what thread size would be suitable - this is where the Metric & Imperial size differences can help you! Source the suitable nut & a die to suit. Then you could carefully angle grind down to the thread root diameter keeping great care to make sure the result is circular in cross section! Not easy but doing it this way the existing threads will guide you.
If you can get the stub axle out, then get the job done on a lathe - easy peasy then, even if you have to weld up & recut the original threads.

 

[norse]

https://queenslandtractorspares.com.au/product/front-stub-axle-thread-recovery-nut-1-x-14-tpi/

I remember something like this being available here 30 years ago,

 

[chipchap]

Another way of bodging it is to put a roll pin in where the split pin goes, packing up the slack with shims.

 

[David Bliss]

It shouldn't happen if bearings are never neglected and let loose, also its a weakness so some manufacturers fitted a distance peace between the two bearings so the nut is pulled up tight so no fretting takes place, only way to adjust bearing then is to remove shims, trouble is people never know the difference between once tight and too tight, I have built up with weld and machined back, but you need an idea of what the metal is and what rods to use as might go brittle and be dangerous, ideally need a scrapper and weld a peace of bar onto that, then go for destruction test to see what and how and where it fails, I have just repaired this gearbox shaft, one end was like the stub axle as threads had fretted and stripped and an idiot had riveted the nut on, a increase of size and finer rate of threads and as the shaft was working in and out the ball race the other end had been spat off the end, a design change to floating roller will help and being captive things won't come apart.

 

[organic antares]

Another way of bodging it is to put a roll pin in where the split pin goes, packing up the slack with shims.

Old Ford 4000 had this bodge many years ago

 

[Wings on my sleeve]

It shouldn't happen if bearings are never neglected and let loose, also its a weakness so some manufacturers fitted a distance peace between the two bearings so the nut is pulled up tight so no fretting takes place, only way to adjust bearing then is to remove shims, trouble is people never know the difference between once tight and too tight, I have built up with weld and machined back, but you need an idea of what the metal is and what rods to use as might go brittle and be dangerous, ideally need a scrapper and weld a peace of bar onto that, then go for destruction test to see what and how and where it fails, I have just repaired this gearbox shaft, one end was like the stub axle as threads had fretted and stripped and an idiot had riveted the nut on, a increase of size and finer rate of threads and as the shaft was working in and out the ball race the other end had been spat off the end, a design change to floating roller will help and being captive things won't come apart.

Well they are greased regularly I wouldn't say neglected.
But I seem to need new bearings every 500 hours. But I'm carrying a 3m Khun power harrow and it's a lot of weight , spinning around turning stresses front wheels and no idea how threads were damaged it has a couple of washers on to take up slack.

 

[David Bliss]

The stub will have got slight wear, this allows bearing to rock and that rocking does same to the nut that wears the threads, a sleeve thats fitted between the bearings stops all of that and also stops bearings from turning, well ours never needed front wheel bearings replacing and with hydraulic pump pressure tweaked so loader could easily lift a ton and got 10,000 hrs as had seen what happens fixed the problem before we had one, however had the odd wheel centre crack and wheel stud pop, fitting wider tyres with smaller wheel centres stopped that, i suppose wider tyres absorbed the shocks and flexed more.

 

[Boomerang]

It shouldn't happen if bearings are never neglected and let loose, also its a weakness so some manufacturers fitted a distance peace between the two bearings so the nut is pulled up tight so no fretting takes place, only way to adjust bearing then is to remove shims, trouble is people never know the difference between once tight and too tight, I have built up with weld and machined back, but you need an idea of what the metal is and what rods to use as might go brittle and be dangerous, ideally need a scrapper and weld a peace of bar onto that, then go for destruction test to see what and how and where it fails, I have just repaired this gearbox shaft, one end was like the stub axle as threads had fretted and stripped and an idiot had riveted the nut on, a increase of size and finer rate of threads and as the shaft was working in and out the ball race the other end had been spat off the end, a design change to floating roller will help and being captive things won't come apart.

The stub will have got slight wear, this allows bearing to rock and that rocking does same to the nut that wears the threads, a sleeve thats fitted between the bearings stops all of that and also stops bearings from turning, well ours never needed front wheel bearings replacing and with hydraulic pump pressure tweaked so loader could easily lift a ton and got 10,000 hrs as had seen what happens fixed the problem before we had one, however had the odd wheel centre crack and wheel stud pop, fitting wider tyres with smaller wheel centres stopped that, i suppose wider tyres absorbed the shocks and flexed more.

Thanks for your advice appreciated