750a wet conditions

Woldtopper

New Member
Is it normal for the gauge wheels to block first in wet sticky soil? Especially behind tractor wheels or is it something we are doing wrong? Too much pressure?
Obviously it’s v wet now but it wasn’t too bad before and it soon became a problem.
 

Tractor Boy

Member
Location
Suffolk
Yes. It’s too wet I would suggest. The thing that blocks it is the gauge wheels and discs sticking together with mud stuck on the side of the disc. If you don’t have the spoked wheels the inside of the gauge wheel then fills up solid. Behind the tractor wheels first is also normal as the cleats have plucked the soil slightly I suppose.
The other things that can happen is the little firming wheel can ball up, especially if it has too much pressure on it when the soil is wet.
 

Woldtopper

New Member
We have taken all pressure off firming wheels which has helped, In your opinion will spoked wheels prevent blocking or just help with cleaning them out? As soil will still stick on outside of the disc.
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
we generally remove the firming wheel altogether if it starts picking up mud or causing problems.
Correct Gauge wheel clearance ( the tyre needs to be just brushing the rear of the disc, & also holds the soil in place as the disc rotates ) is also vital

In this part of the world, a large proportion of the northern NSW / southern Qld arable areas are alluvial flood plains, of deep ( up to 14 metres or more ) heavy black self mulching clay soils with huge water holding capacity, with full zero till / stubble retention being “normal”.
Generally, we won’t do anything until the soil surface crusts - it it is still wet or sticky, no point trying ( plus - it just does toooo much soil damage travelling in those conditions ).
However, even with a dry crust that the gauge wheel can run over with no problem, the soil under that can still be very sticky for many weeks at times . . .
This is where setup is crucial. Depth, down pressure, clean / shiny / sharp discs, gauge wheel clearance etc etc
One real game changer here, in conjunction with spoked gauge wheels ( which allow that mud building up between the disc & gauge wheel to fall through ) is steel scraper rings mounted on the inside of the gauge wheel rim, which literally scrape the mud off the disc. Much more effective than any other styles of mud scrapers. The gauge wheel performs the dual function of holding the soil down as the disc comes out of the soil & scraping off any mud right at that point. The steel ring last MUCH longer than the rubber lip on the gauge wheel tyre, so it also greatly increases tyre life.
Correct setup & a few appropriate modifications or aftermarket parts WILL make a huge difference to performance, but at the end of the day - if it’s too wet it’s too wet . . .
We try to avoid all field work when it’s wet anyway, due to the damage it causes . . .

Patience Grasshopper - patience . . .
 
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Bob lincs

Member
Arable Farmer
With spoked wheels on you can drill in some really nasty condition . But I can tell you from my own experience don’t do it . Leave your seed in the bag .
A1AE2B85-9C22-44D8-8571-76A1D92139DF.jpeg
 

Woldtopper

New Member
we generally remove the firming wheel altogether if it starts picking up mud or causing problems.
Correct Gauge wheel clearance ( the tyre needs to be just brushing the rear of the disc, & also holds the soil in place as the disc rotates ) is also vital

In this part of the world, a large proportion of the northern NSW / southern Qld arable areas are alluvial flood plains, of deep ( up to 14 metres or more ) heavy black self mulching clay soils with huge water holding capacity, with full zero till / stubble retention being “normal”.
Generally, we won’t do anything until the soil surface crusts - it it is still wet or sticky, no point trying ( plus - it just does toooo much soil damage travelling in those conditions ).
However, even with a dry crust that the gauge wheel can run over with no problem, the soil under that can still be very sticky for many weeks at times . . .
This is where setup is crucial. Depth, down pressure, clean / shiny / sharp discs, gauge wheel clearance etc etc
One real game changer here, in conjunction with spoked gauge wheels ( which allow that mud building up between the disc & gauge wheel to fall through ) is steel scraper rings mounted on the inside of the gauge wheel rim, which literally scrape the mud off the disc. Much more effective than any other styles of mud scrapers. The gauge wheel performs the dual function of holding the soil down as the disc comes out of the soil & scraping off any mud right at that point. The steel ring last MUCH longer than the rubber lip on the gauge wheel tyre, so it also greatly increases tyre life.
Correct setup & a few appropriate modifications or aftermarket parts WILL make a huge difference to performance, but at the end of the day - if it’s too wet it’s too wet . . .
We try to avoid all field work when it’s wet anyway, due to the damage it causes . . .

Patience Grasshopper - patience . . .
Thank you for your input I think the spoked gauge wheels will be worth the investment, the scraper rings sound good, who sells them? Can they be fitted to any gauge wheel?
 

Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
a number of local manufacturers

we have a number of manufacturers & machines available that use a similar gauge wheel to the JD one. For all intents & purposes they are pretty much interchangeable.

However, as these are locally produced, they will all pretty much make them to suit what you want

these ones are a tight push over a new tyre & held in place by a dob of silicone, or you can weld lugs on to physically bolt to the wheel


these replace the inner half of the rim

or you can go a completely steel wheel, but I reckon mud would stick to the outside of this as there is no flex in the "tyre" ?


another manufacturer

or even small, local engineering firms can make them. As far as I know, these fellas ( http://www.tamarang.com.au/rural ) made the first ones I saw, after being asked by a local farmer. Shouldn't be too hard to take one of your gauge wheels & some pics off the above websites to a local fabrication workshop & get some built.
This style is the simplest to make
JD Gauge Wheel Disc Scraper ring


Image may contain: outdoor
 
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Farmer Roy

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
NSW, Newstralya
way too wet, certainly wouldn't recommend it . . .

a few years ago now ( obviously :ROFLMAO: ), got caught in a quick downpour at the wrong end of the field & just worked my way back to the end that my ute was parked at, to then knock off & go home. Still turning though . . .

Image may contain: outdoor
 
If it is too wet don’t battle on
You may feel better finishing drilling but when you combine a low yielding black grassed up poor crop you need to know when to give up and plant on a dryer day even if it is the following April

If you have nice free draining soil it still needs drilling when it is dry enough
Should have taken more notice of fathers words from his experience from 1950s and 1960s
This was before combidrills and 4 wheel drive when it too wet it’s too wet
Just because the drill will go doesn’t mean it is dry enough
 

Woldtopper

New Member
It’s certainly too wet for the John Deere but at the same time it’s not too wet to drill if that makes sense. We have a Vaderstad Rapid and it’s still able to drill after 2 or3 dry days but JD will def not go after that, bit disappointing as wanted to drill winter Beans with it.
 

Simon Chiles

DD Moderator
It’s certainly too wet for the John Deere but at the same time it’s not too wet to drill if that makes sense. We have a Vaderstad Rapid and it’s still able to drill after 2 or3 dry days but JD will def not go after that, bit disappointing as wanted to drill winter Beans with it.

The 750 will go in far wetter conditions than a Rapid if you set it up correctly and it will do a better job, especially on the headlands. It is a bit of an art and a lot of work to get it to run correctly. However, just as nearly everyone has said, just because you can go isn’t the same as it being a good idea especially if you’re thinking about your long term soil health. IMO you’re much better to wait, look around you at nature, the leaves are still on the trees, grass is growing well, forget the date, nature is saying it’s still early to be drilling.
 

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