A few workshop jobs.

[tinman]

They are Claas branded but not sure who actually make them. I'm assuming Claas don't make their own. Here's hoping they buy them from Timken, FAG, SKF or NSK.

id be shocked if they did tbh, slight possibility they are nsk but if they were it id say on them.
big difference in the longevity of a average quality bearing compared to a quality one for just a few dollars more.
cant remember the size of them now, 6307 was it.

 

[Larel]

id be shocked if they did tbh, slight possibility they are nsk but if they were it id say on them.
big difference in the longevity of a average quality bearing compared to a quality one for just a few dollars more.
cant remember the size of them now, 6307 was it.

I'll look when I go out, all I can mind is, the od is 52mm because that's what I bored out the housing to.

 

[tinman]

I'll look when I go out, all I can mind is, the od is 52mm because that's what I bored out the housing to.

6205 then so, im gettin old...
its no wonder they dont last.
double up the bearings on both sides might make a job of it but as you said before she gives little trouble but when they were round here it was a problematic piece.

 

[Larel]

6205 then so, im gettin old...
its no wonder they dont last.
double up the bearings on both sides might make a job of it but as you said before she gives little trouble but when they were round here it was a problematic piece.

Good call on doubling up. I'll have a look at that. Wouldn't have been as much damage if I had spotted it earlier. Also look at getting branded bearings if I am doubling up anyway.

 

[Masseymad]

Good call on doubling up. I'll have a look at that. Wouldn't have been as much damage if I had spotted it earlier. Also look at getting branded bearings if I am doubling up anyway.

Dad went out to the class factory a few years back and said all the bearings they were using we're in timken box's

 

[Larel]

Chopped out, tacked up and welded. Needs whizzed with a die grinder because it’s pulled and shrunk during welding. Line boring ideally but I don’t have that kit available. Was wondering if I could get it mounted in a path again using a steady. Need to study that.

 

[Larel]

Dad went out to the class factory a few years back and said all the bearings they were using we're in timken box's

Had a quick look at the bearings, they are stamped with’portugal’ should have taken a pic. I’ll get it tomorrow night.

 

[Larel]

6205 then so, im gettin old...
its no wonder they dont last.
double up the bearings on both sides might make a job of it but as you said before she gives little trouble but when they were round here it was a problematic piece.

Dad went out to the class factory a few years back and said all the bearings they were using we're in timken box's

Looks like these Claas bearings are supplied by FAG. Shouldn’t be any issues with quality there.

 

[Larel]

Gave the housing a whizz out with a burr on a Desoutter and the bearing fitted no probs. Now built up ready to refit our baler.

 

[Larel]

Back together and test run fine. Put new poly bushes in the tie bar as well, but it’s not significantly tighter than the ones I threw away.

 

[Larel]

When I finished the above repair I thought I’d service the baler ready for the coming season. Always go round the rollers with a pinch bar checking the bearings and found one of the bottom rollers in the main body of the baler to be slack on the non drive end bearing. Of with guards and wheel for access.

After a failed attempt to remove the key using a morse taper wedge and some discussion on a separate post on here I purchased a gib key wedge from my local dealer, along with two new bearings.

 

[Larel]

Out she comes. Puller needed for the sprocket yet.

 

[Bob c]

View attachment 784170
Out she comes. Puller needed for the sprocket yet.

like the idea to keep the drift on the Gin key

 

[Larel]

like the idea to keep the drift on the Gin key

I had a failed/bodged attempt to remove it last night using a morse taper drift which damaged the end of the key. Even though my new wedge is tapered to keep it in place it was offering to slip out so thought it better to hold it in tight. Will dress up the key before putting it back in.

 

[Larel]

On with the pullers and off it came. Only just got the jaws open enough to go over the sprocket.

 

[v8willy]

View attachment 784278 View attachment 784280 View attachment 784282
On with the pullers and off it came. Only just got the jaws open enough to go over the sprocket.

Some of them sprockets split, the outer part is threaded on to the boss. We had a 2nd hand 46 & I had to buy a lot of sprockets as the previous owner had put them on to stay, they would bend beofre they would pull off, some came off with the gas axe. the nightmares are coming back...

 

[Larel]

I split the outer race, popped out the balls and cage to get the outer race off. It’s the other end that was slack but this one was pretty dry. Only a matter of time before it would fail. Hope the rest are in a better state! I can’t get the roller out with the inner race still in place although it looks like it should. I can’t get a pullers into the inner race so think I’ll grind it and split it to get it off the shaft. Too late tonight to do grinding and then walk away from the baler hoping it won’t go up in smoke. I’ll do that tomorrow when I’ll be around for some time afterwards to make sure there’s no inadvertent bonfires.

 

[Larel]

I split the inner race tonight, slit with a grinder and a cold chisel cracked it apart. Off it came no bother.

 

[Larel]

I split the NDE bearing to remove it. Same sequence, grinder and chisel. A lot of hay has got past the crop guard inside the roller next the bearing on both ends.
This lot was inside the DE, good for nesting birds at this time of year.

 

[Larel]

Now the back roller is out I got a better look at the front one, put a pinch bar below it and decided the NDE bearing was slack on it too.

Off came the sprocket, I’ll do those bearing when I’m this far in anyway.