Used to put a couple of bits of tape over the end plates before fitting to keep them in place, & kept a couple of longer bolts for the end plates to get them started.View attachment 786332 View attachment 786334
I fitted the NDE bearing first, then built up the DE.
View attachment 786336 View attachment 786338
Went together pretty easy. Used the pullers to hold the sprocket in the right place while I tapped the key home.
I have the next roller to do yet, but I got 2 DE bearings from the dealer by mistake so need to get one changed tomorrow. Should have it all back together in the next couple of nights.
I did wonder if I’d need a couple of bits of stud bar to get the plate pulled into place but managed with the help of one of those tooth pick things, hooked it through the hole and pulled it into place.Used to put a couple of bits of tape over the end plates before fitting to keep them in place, & kept a couple of longer bolts for the end plates to get them started.
that always irked me, smashing a good bearing to get at the small one so i changed the script with mine when i had it, i modified it to my way of liking.
i cut the hole on the small bearing side bigger with a hole saw, just a tad bigger than the OD of the bearing, done the whole lot when i was at it, bored out a 10mm bolt with a 6mm hole, run it into the end of the roller, used a hole saw the right size and a 6mm piece of stainless rod where the drill would of been for a guide in the 10mm bolt hole.
i sowed them all out so i could pull the small bearing out without breaking the good one as half of the time, if not more, the small one was at fault, it was far too small for the job it was doing at the best of times.
on the later models of the class balers they had a stamped flange for retaining the small bearing side so i bought a load of them and as i drilled out my panel i installed the flange.
it left it so as i could pull the small bearing with a sliding hammer and replace it without touching the driven side.
not long after that i cut washers of delrin to suit the size of the hole inside the stamped retaining ring where the steel washer would normally be and threaded it off center to suit a grease nipple, as id be installing the bearing id pull off the seal, it cut down the bearing fails by about 60% iirc.
a lot of lads didn't bother to replace the little nylon ring on the inside of the bearings, they seen no point in it but they didn't realize it was to stop, or at least slow up the crud from getting to the bearing.
greasing the small bearings was such a success i went to the large bearing side and as i was replacing bearings id take the outside retaining plate , drill a hole just at the lip of it next to the bearing, weld on a nut and screw a suitable grease nipple into it, that way i could grease both sides, the bearings supplied have a grease hole in them but like yours had no way of greasing them, they did when i got finished with them.
and after that a yr or two later i looped them all with greasing pipes and left a manifold where you could grease them all from one point.
it worked extremely well and cut down bearing failures massively, so much so i ended up sick of boring out balers, lads i was servicing claas balers for seen what i done and asked for it on theirs as well.
bear in mind this was a time before claas had came up with that plan themselves but they did something similar in later years.
some ideas there for you maybe.
the only thing i regret not doing at the time was buying shares in a bearing factory for id be a millionaire by now.....
not long after that i seen the light and got a good baler..
I like this thread
Great thread which I ve only just seen.
Some very clever and tidy work you ve done to get things how you want them !