A few workshop jobs.

Larel

Member
BC483AEF-A82A-4C45-92D6-157B7B88430C.jpeg

Next bearing race cut to remove the bearing. This one looks like it still has some grease in it, but it needs to come out to get to the one at the other end.
 

Larel

Member
709F616D-7A56-4C4C-8117-5C82196B2DFB.jpeg
Should have taken out these two rollers before tackling the bearing on the raker bar, it would have made access much easier! You live and learn.
 

Larel

Member
D6C3260A-DD1E-4DB8-BCE8-E65ED72AA873.jpeg FBE3DC23-4C8F-4138-B5C6-491F8D24F7D6.jpeg
I fitted the NDE bearing first, then built up the DE.
1AD596DF-DADE-4CB9-BA30-301C7A2339BB.jpeg 6F619928-3195-45F2-ABEF-EF49A68841C2.jpeg
Went together pretty easy. Used the pullers to hold the sprocket in the right place while I tapped the key home.
I have the next roller to do yet, but I got 2 DE bearings from the dealer by mistake so need to get one changed tomorrow. Should have it all back together in the next couple of nights.
 

v8willy

Member
Mixed Farmer
View attachment 786332 View attachment 786334
I fitted the NDE bearing first, then built up the DE.
View attachment 786336 View attachment 786338
Went together pretty easy. Used the pullers to hold the sprocket in the right place while I tapped the key home.
I have the next roller to do yet, but I got 2 DE bearings from the dealer by mistake so need to get one changed tomorrow. Should have it all back together in the next couple of nights.
Used to put a couple of bits of tape over the end plates before fitting to keep them in place, & kept a couple of longer bolts for the end plates to get them started.
 

Larel

Member
Used to put a couple of bits of tape over the end plates before fitting to keep them in place, & kept a couple of longer bolts for the end plates to get them started.
I did wonder if I’d need a couple of bits of stud bar to get the plate pulled into place but managed with the help of one of those tooth pick things, hooked it through the hole and pulled it into place.
 

fermerboy

Member
Location
Banffshire
Always thought it was a ball ache having to destroy the big drive end bearing to get at the little blind end one.
Thank your lucky stars its not the sprocket on the top roller the door hinges on you needed off, i vowed id set it on fire rather than go through that again.
46 was a good baler if you gave it time, we only swapped for a wider pickup.
Always thought the Welger was a better baler but mine is a troublesome pain of a thing.
 

tinman

Member
Location
Ulster
that always irked me, smashing a good bearing to get at the small one so i changed the script with mine when i had it, i modified it to my way of liking.

i cut the hole on the small bearing side bigger with a hole saw, just a tad bigger than the OD of the bearing, done the whole lot when i was at it, bored out a 10mm bolt with a 6mm hole, run it into the end of the roller, used a hole saw the right size and a 6mm piece of stainless rod where the drill would of been for a guide in the 10mm bolt hole.
i sowed them all out so i could pull the small bearing out without breaking the good one as half of the time, if not more, the small one was at fault, it was far too small for the job it was doing at the best of times.

on the later models of the class balers they had a stamped flange for retaining the small bearing side so i bought a load of them and as i drilled out my panel i installed the flange.
it left it so as i could pull the small bearing with a sliding hammer and replace it without touching the driven side.

not long after that i cut washers of delrin to suit the size of the hole inside the stamped retaining ring where the steel washer would normally be and threaded it off center to suit a grease nipple, as id be installing the bearing id pull off the seal, it cut down the bearing fails by about 60% iirc.
a lot of lads didn't bother to replace the little nylon ring on the inside of the bearings, they seen no point in it but they didn't realize it was to stop, or at least slow up the crud from getting to the bearing.

greasing the small bearings was such a success i went to the large bearing side and as i was replacing bearings id take the outside retaining plate , drill a hole just at the lip of it next to the bearing, weld on a nut and screw a suitable grease nipple into it, that way i could grease both sides, the bearings supplied have a grease hole in them but like yours had no way of greasing them, they did when i got finished with them.

and after that a yr or two later i looped them all with greasing pipes and left a manifold where you could grease them all from one point.
it worked extremely well and cut down bearing failures massively, so much so i ended up sick of boring out balers, lads i was servicing claas balers for seen what i done and asked for it on theirs as well.
bear in mind this was a time before claas had came up with that plan themselves but they did something similar in later years.
some ideas there for you maybe.

the only thing i regret not doing at the time was buying shares in a bearing factory for id be a millionaire by now.....
not long after that i seen the light and got a good baler..
 

fermerboy

Member
Location
Banffshire
that always irked me, smashing a good bearing to get at the small one so i changed the script with mine when i had it, i modified it to my way of liking.

i cut the hole on the small bearing side bigger with a hole saw, just a tad bigger than the OD of the bearing, done the whole lot when i was at it, bored out a 10mm bolt with a 6mm hole, run it into the end of the roller, used a hole saw the right size and a 6mm piece of stainless rod where the drill would of been for a guide in the 10mm bolt hole.
i sowed them all out so i could pull the small bearing out without breaking the good one as half of the time, if not more, the small one was at fault, it was far too small for the job it was doing at the best of times.

on the later models of the class balers they had a stamped flange for retaining the small bearing side so i bought a load of them and as i drilled out my panel i installed the flange.
it left it so as i could pull the small bearing with a sliding hammer and replace it without touching the driven side.

not long after that i cut washers of delrin to suit the size of the hole inside the stamped retaining ring where the steel washer would normally be and threaded it off center to suit a grease nipple, as id be installing the bearing id pull off the seal, it cut down the bearing fails by about 60% iirc.
a lot of lads didn't bother to replace the little nylon ring on the inside of the bearings, they seen no point in it but they didn't realize it was to stop, or at least slow up the crud from getting to the bearing.

greasing the small bearings was such a success i went to the large bearing side and as i was replacing bearings id take the outside retaining plate , drill a hole just at the lip of it next to the bearing, weld on a nut and screw a suitable grease nipple into it, that way i could grease both sides, the bearings supplied have a grease hole in them but like yours had no way of greasing them, they did when i got finished with them.

and after that a yr or two later i looped them all with greasing pipes and left a manifold where you could grease them all from one point.
it worked extremely well and cut down bearing failures massively, so much so i ended up sick of boring out balers, lads i was servicing claas balers for seen what i done and asked for it on theirs as well.
bear in mind this was a time before claas had came up with that plan themselves but they did something similar in later years.
some ideas there for you maybe.

the only thing i regret not doing at the time was buying shares in a bearing factory for id be a millionaire by now.....
not long after that i seen the light and got a good baler..

Thats what they should have been straight from the factory.
Always thought about making a bigger hole on the blind side but never got round to it. Swapped for a red one instead.
 

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