After rebuild advice

[jd24]

Hi just rebuilt my Universal 550 engine. I've had it running maybe 30mins and it seems to be smoking (oil burning). It does reduce once warm. I believe this is normal when first run in but want to double check.
This is my first time fully rebuilding an engine.
-new piston and rings
-new liners honed professionally
-new bearings
-new conrod bushes honed
-new valves seated professionally
-injection pump rebuilt
-new injectors calibrated

 

[TheTallGuy]

You need to give it good hard working in order to get the rings & liners to bed in.

 

[Timbo]

You need to give it good hard working in order to get the rings & liners to bed in.

Exactly this ^^^^ get it fully warmed up and then give it some varied work 1/4 load to 100% load at varying revs. Do not continue to idle it with no load.

 

[jd24]

Okay. Got 20acres of discing to do whenever it dries up

 

[jd24]

Ps I did the rings as per the manual 180 degrees. The smoke off this engine is worse than any other tractor lol. It really burns eyes skin everything mde worse by a crack in the exhaust which blows in your face.

 

[MrNoo]

Dont put semi or even synthetic oil in it as the rings will never bed in, some piston/liner ring kits seem better than others re smoke when rebuilt. Did a Tef Fergie with an Agriline kit and a haze followed it around for months, Bepco and very little issue re smoke.

 

[deleted user 837354]

For how long would you bed an engine in for, and would you do this with all new or reconditioned engines?

What about brand new tractors, do you take em easy for the first 100 hours before their first service or not?

 

[jd24]

For how long would you bed an engine in for, and would you do this with all new or reconditioned engines?

What about brand new tractors, do you take em easy for the first 100 hours before their first service or not?

I imagine new tractor engines are run under load on a test bed. Might not though

 

[jd24]

Dont put semi or even synthetic oil in it as the rings will never bed in, some piston/liner ring kits seem better than others re smoke when rebuilt. Did a Tef Fergie with an Agriline kit and a haze followed it around for months, Bepco and very little issue re smoke.

Just mineral oil then? These are cast liners and cast rings

 

[multi power]

For how long would you bed an engine in for, and would you do this with all new or reconditioned engines?

What about brand new tractors, do you take em easy for the first 100 hours before their first service or not?

New tractors need running in, the harder they are thrashed the better they perform long term

 

[MrNoo]

Just mineral oil then? These are cast liners and cast rings

I use Castrol 20w50 in all mine or the same equivalent, get it from Opie oils online. Oil pressure stays up when hot as opposed to dropping with other oils, seems to suit all the old tractors I have

 

[deleted user 837354]

New tractors need running in, the harder they are thrashed the better they perform long term

From right from new? Not even 100 hours on the clock?

 

[multi power]

From right from new? Not even 100 hours on the clock?

As far as I'm aware

 

[deleted user 837354]

I use Castrol 20w50 in all mine or the same equivalent, get it from Opie oils online. Oil pressure stays up when hot as opposed to dropping with other oils, seems to suit all the old tractors I have

Opie are a good company, there is a website where they do an extensive question and answer type deal for all those things you ever wanted to know about lubricants!

 

[jd6820]

Yeah, heavy consistent load is best. Once i've rebuilt an engine a good stint on dyno makes a big difference. Shouldn't be smoking much though, certainly not when warm? Oil smoke rather than un burnt diesel?

 

[deleted user 837354]

As far as I'm aware

Going back a bit, I thought old engines used special running in oil, after which, you changed it for the real deal and then ran the clappers off her. Probably not needed now though. Never ceases to amaze me that you can buy the same engine oil and put it in petrol or diesel cars, things have changed.

 

[deleted user 837354]

Whilst we are on the subject, anyone know of production diesel engines with high red-lines like a petrol car might get? Say 6000rpm or so? Don't see many about.

 

[jd6820]

Whilst we are on the subject, anyone know of production diesel engines with high red-lines like a petrol car might get? Say 6000rpm or so? Don't see many about.

Not any I can think of? Probably because it would have to be of relatively small displacement due to piston/rod/crank mass becoming a limiting factor. The other factor would be diesel atomisation, it takes an amount of time and as RPM increases the window gets smaller. This is of course stock engines, I'd guess they could be modified to rev harder and the efficiency/reliability compromised as a result?

 

[jd24]

Yeah, heavy consistent load is best. Once i've rebuilt an engine a good stint on dyno makes a big difference. Shouldn't be smoking much though, certainly not when warm? Oil smoke rather than un burnt diesel?

Definitely oil

 

[MrNoo]

Going back a bit, I thought old engines used special running in oil, after which, you changed it for the real deal and then ran the clappers off her. Probably not needed now though. Never ceases to amaze me that you can buy the same engine oil and put it in petrol or diesel cars, things have changed.

Yes, used to use the cheapest oil available!! Used to do the same with my race engines when they went on the dyno, with believe it or not a very small amount of brasso tipped in (dyno opperator, old boy, his trick) Engine used to get run up for 30-45 mins, stopped, drop oil out then put fresh decent stuff in and then it had the beans. I would strip it down after just to check everything and never found any issue.