Thanks very much for thisGo for the PensAgro system and even switch the way you shift them manually, yes gates can work but,,, why? Just put the gate anywhere along the fence.
We use 2 metre fibreglass blanks and just put a double wedgeclip on them to hook to the wire. That way everything is schooled and the auto lifters don't need any extra thought
saying that, you can make a lifter out of a battlatch and a spring/pivoting arm if you have one.
I think @Fenwick is using his, mine are still in their boxes as we're only shifting OAD
Yep, no worries there, I will get you some pictures tomorrow.Thanks very much for this
Can you share a pic of your set-up?
Can't quite see how this will work with KT temp fence and polywire.
Cheers
Probably cost, reliability and simplicity as I see it.Just out of interest, what’s the benefit of the above fence prop system compared to a couple of hand gates in the fence line
Yeah. I haven't pulled them out of their boxes other than to watch one work and say "yip, they'll be great in the winter" and put it back in the box. I like shifting them if I can get there, and usually someone else has it done.Nixe one. Thanks
I can't see the lifter or batt latch in these pics
Am I missing something?
Yeah. I haven't pulled them out of their boxes other than to watch one work and say "yip, they'll be great in the winter" and put it back in the box. I like shifting them if I can get there, and usually someone else has it done.
Winter will sort them out
(Post was more to show @Gil582 why wire lifters can be better than gate systems in most cases, the whole farm is a gateway if you have a lifting device)
Probably cost, reliability and simplicity as I see it.
Say we have 280 paddocks, that's a lot of posts and gates and knots to fail over time
@Nsoiled here is how we do itView attachment 961273
10mm fibreglass rod blank with kt double wedgeclip on the end; due to our contour we just used arrowposts and double wedgeclips everywhere, as we have up, down, and up/down pulls.View attachment 961274View attachment 961277
Lift it up, count to 10, put it down. If they can't work it out in ten seconds, then they get a day to think about it - this "firm but fair" approach means you don't get 2 d!ckheads hanging back waiting to be chased through the gap. Also it's to teach them to JFDI for when we are on halfsize paddocks with more moves and auto lifters etc.
(We'll cut the 50x20 into 2 25x20s to be a bit kinder on the soil)
Yes, we do. The polywire fences don't need them, but all the wire fences have at least one spring assembly. Makes them rather indestructable as they will "give" by a few feet, so nothing is going to keep pushing.Thank you, very interesting !
so do you have springs on most of the division wires then to allow for a bit of play when you lift them?
hi Pablo,I am Pablo owner of PensAgro if you guys have doubts or questions and videos. I just find this forum by coincidence so not sure if I will find it back.
Instagram is @pens_agro
Web WWW.PENSAGRO.COM
Can we see this process done with livestock present?Yep, no worries there, I will get you some pictures tomorrow.
For lifting your lane fences, probably the best bet is still a ¾ inch galv pipe sat in a coffee mug as an insulator - put your gloves on, put a half hitch of lane fence around the pole and hoist it up like a clothesline, sit the pipe in the cup to save it grounding out the fence while you load the lane with stock.
We're all cattle, single and double wires and the wires are on springs to give plenty of flex, so the small fibreglass poles are fine for that. Only takes a couple of kg of "lift" and the polywires are even less.
But the lanes are built and they take some lifting, the bottom wire has to go the furthest and is quite tight when you get it there, hence recommending the steel poleView attachment 961143View attachment 961144
Yep, you're onto it! On our paddock block, we have the lanes and ½ the crossfences made of 1.6mmHT with Kiwitech 1.6 hypersprings at the end, and their straingate handle at the other end. Maybe they have 8-10 feet of sideways/vertical stretch?Can we see this process done with livestock present?
Also, I know of people suggesting thickwalled PVC for this (with a notch cut out at the top) on single wire at least
Do we know what is at the end of the lines in this instance? Is it Kiwitech end assemblies?
Is that an electric scooter?Yep, you're onto it! On our paddock block, we have the lanes and ½ the crossfences made of 1.6mmHT with Kiwitech 1.6 hypersprings at the end, and their straingate handle at the other end. Maybe they have 8-10 feet of sideways/vertical stretch?
The other ½ of the crossfences are regular economy polywire with insulated handles - at the boundary end, it's just clipped to the fence, and at the other end I wind about 30 turns around the handle to tension it right, and a couple of half-hitches to stop it all sliding off. We used the polywire just for visibility in the mornings, as the fence is very hard to see
to lift the wire, we just use 2m x 10mm fibreglass blanks with a kiwitech double wedgeclip on the end, which I carry around in a rack on the scooterView attachment 989035
Shifting is as quick as riding up the fence in front of the mob, popping over the lane-fence and planting the stick in the ground - 50m across the empty lane and repeat until all the mobs have their wire up - then ride back down the other fence and pull the sticks outView attachment 989036
Because we have a very small farm, generally a shift (5 mobs) takes 2-5 minutes
Where Pablo's invention comes into its own is not (for us) a saving in time as such, but a little more freedom during the daytime when the stock could be moved more often, but nobody is sitting here to do it.
Yep, that's the new beast. Great for what I want (lots of "cold starts") and nice and nimble for catching the neighbour's lambs when they break in my old farmbike feels like it's made of concrete nowIs that an electric scooter?
With the regular polywire cross fences, are they clipping onto high tensile subdivistions? Is there enough stretch to put 2m of lift on these?Yep, you're onto it! On our paddock block, we have the lanes and ½ the crossfences made of 1.6mmHT with Kiwitech 1.6 hypersprings at the end, and their straingate handle at the other end. Maybe they have 8-10 feet of sideways/vertical stretch?
The other ½ of the crossfences are regular economy polywire with insulated handles - at the boundary end, it's just clipped to the fence, and at the other end I wind about 30 turns around the handle to tension it right, and a couple of half-hitches to stop it all sliding off. We used the polywire just for visibility in the mornings, as the fence is very hard to see
to lift the wire, we just use 2m x 10mm fibreglass blanks with a kiwitech double wedgeclip on the end, which I carry around in a rack on the scooterView attachment 989035
Shifting is as quick as riding up the fence in front of the mob, popping over the lane-fence and planting the stick in the ground - 50m across the empty lane and repeat until all the mobs have their wire up - then ride back down the other fence and pull the sticks outView attachment 989036
Because we have a very small farm, generally a shift (5 mobs) takes 2-5 minutes
Where Pablo's invention comes into its own is not (for us) a saving in time as such, but a little more freedom during the daytime when the stock could be moved more often, but nobody is sitting here to do it.
Where they go through dips, I clip them into the clips but most of the time they're just laid over the top of the lanes, so they can be picked upWith the regular polywire cross fences, are they clipping onto high tensile subdivistions? Is there enough stretch to put 2m of lift on these?