Claas Senator 60 advice please

[tamarisk]

We're keeping this old combine running fine but the star shaped roller just behind the drum that feeds the threshed straw back is wearing out. It has various dents, presumably from stones, bits of wood or whatever, but worse is that it has actually worn through in a few places and I'm worried that the edges of the holes will snag and tear right open. Removing it to mend looks to be a nightmare - pulleys off both ends involves taking the elevator completely to pieces in order to withdraw the shaft so that the roller can come out the front, if it can get past the drum ... etc. I've wondered about trying to weld it in situ but that also looks like asking for a fire. Any suggestions please.

 

[bobk]

We're keeping this old combine running fine but the star shaped roller just behind the drum that feeds the threshed straw back is wearing out. It has various dents, presumably from stones, bits of wood or whatever, but worse is that it has actually worn through in a few places and I'm worried that the edges of the holes will snag and tear right open. Removing it to mend looks to be a nightmare - pulleys off both ends involves taking the elevator completely to pieces in order to withdraw the shaft so that the roller can come out the front, if it can get past the drum ... etc. I've wondered about trying to weld it in situ but that also looks like asking for a fire. Any suggestions please.

Weld it on a rainy day , not joking

 

[David.]

Easiest way is usually to remove drum and do rear beater tins in situ.
However... my experience is with Dominators, from which drum removal is relatively simple.

 

[bobk]

Easiest way is usually to remove drum and do rear beater tins in situ.
However... my experience is with Dominators, from which drum removal is relatively simple.

My way is better .

 

[reb1952]

8 bolt on tin panels on my old Senator, 1972 model. Changed them in an hour or so. Climbed in over the straw walkers.
Mind that was about 49 years ago. I'm not so agile now.

 

[Zebbedee]

Yes those panels are all bolted on quite a common repair to replace them

 

[tamarisk]

Thanks for replies.

I did think about adding panels with pop rivets, but worried about edges catching up straw and grass and the whole roller ending up as a big fluff ball. Were the bolt on panels how it was originally designed or were they added as repairs? And If added later how were they bolted - there's no way to get a nut behind.

 

[bobk]

Thanks for replies.

I did think about adding panels with pop rivets, but worried about edges catching up straw and grass and the whole roller ending up as a big fluff ball. Were the bolt on panels how it was originally designed or were they added as repairs? And If added later how were they bolted - there's no way to get a nut behind.

Use tek screws

 

[Om352]

Thanks for replies.

I did think about adding panels with pop rivets, but worried about edges catching up straw and grass and the whole roller ending up as a big fluff ball. Were the bolt on panels how it was originally designed or were they added as repairs? And If added later how were they bolted - there's no way to get a nut behind.

If they are like a dominator there's no nuts, the bolts are studs threaded into the flanges on the shaft. If you can get at them just put all the plates on loosley and only tighten them when they're all studs are in place. Not sure but would think 17mm socket and ratchet would be the job.

 

[David.]

As above, do not bolt them up tight as you fit them because you need a bit of jiggle to get the last one in, fit them all then nip them up. They would have been factory balanced from new, but all you can really do is note the position of any extra counterweight nuts/bolts and replicate position on reassembly.
It's a bit of a mockery, because the rear beater is usually hall full of cavings anyway.

 

[Barleymow]

Jmt might have some

 

[bobk]

Jmt might have some

He's got my old senator

 

[FG.]

He's got my old senator

Came across an old Dominator I had 30 years ago, while having a wonder around.

 

[tamarisk]

If they are like a dominator there's no nuts, the bolts are studs threaded into the flanges on the shaft. If you can get at them just put all the plates on loosley and only tighten them when they're all studs are in place. Not sure but would think 17mm socket and ratchet would be the job.

As above, do not bolt them up tight as you fit them because you need a bit of jiggle to get the last one in, fit them all then nip them up. They would have been factory balanced from new, but all you can really do is note the position of any extra counterweight nuts/bolts and replicate position on reassembly.
It's a bit of a mockery, because the rear beater is usually hall full of cavings anyway.

Thanks for this. I've been back and looked closely and feel a bit silly not seeing the nuts before! I'll get in there somehow and have a go - I hope they're not seized up or snap. doesn't look too easy to get WD40 into the right place. I'll let you know how we get on.

8 bolt on tin panels on my old Senator, 1972 model. Changed them in an hour or so. Climbed in over the straw walkers.
Mind that was about 49 years ago. I'm not so agile now.

I'm not quite so agile either now! I have been in over the straw walkers to get at it and managed to get out again, but I've got an enthusiastic 17 year old helper so I might let him do that bit.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Thanks for this. I've been back and looked closely and feel a bit silly not seeing the nuts before! I'll get in there somehow and have a go - I hope they're not seized up or snap. doesn't look too easy to get WD40 into the right place. I'll let you know how we get on.

I'm not quite so agile either now! I have been in over the straw walkers to get at it and managed to get out again, but I've got an enthusiastic 17 year old helper so I might let him do that bit.

disconnect the battery first before entering the walkers