Goweresque
Member
- Location
- North Wilts
I used twin wall drainage pipe , cut it in half with circular saw6 meter long so not many joints quite cheap, been up 15 year trouble free
How do you join it?
I used twin wall drainage pipe , cut it in half with circular saw6 meter long so not many joints quite cheap, been up 15 year trouble free
Use twin wall joiners cut in half ,plenty of silicone and some tek screwsHow do you join it?
The pipe has built in joints, mastic and bolt together , ends used wood , down cut hole in pushed pipe up cut it into 4 heat gun bend flaps over mastic bolt , so you get a bit of pipe sticking down for down spout to conect to.How do you join it?
The sealant on the roll that you use for joints on sheets works well, not much use on an old gutter though.Yes but it never seems to make a decent job of it. You've got those holes drilled right at the bottom of the gutter and if enough sealant doesn't get into the hole and around the bolt, you get this constant drip drip from the bolt. All the leaky asbestos gutters I've got all leak at the joints.
I was told galv gutter lifespan is only 10 years. That's ridiculous. Surely someone is taking the pee. But judging by some of ours put up in 2007, id say hes not far off.
We have a galv valley gutter put up in 2004 and the Galv is getting worn off where the water drips continuously from the sheet corrugations. Another 10 years and it will be rusting heavily. Have deep flow gutters on several other buildings oldest being 2008 - good as the day it was put up.I've never had an issue with galvanised gutters. 1000x better than plastic as there is strength in the gutter, not just the brackets. If ever using plastic I think I'd double the number of brackets they suggest too!!
We have a galv valley gutter put up in 2004 and the Galv is getting worn off where the water drips continuously from the sheet corrugations. Another 10 years and it will be rusting heavily. Have deep flow gutters on several other buildings oldest being 2008 - good as the day it was put up.
We always painted these before joining them. My boss insisted.Its the joints on the fibre cement stuff that I can't stand, they always end up leaking.
Go and see Tinnie Thomas at Leominster. He will sort it outHi,
Our workshop which is a portal frame building needs new gutters. The brackets are good just need gutters to fix in them. Its a 1960/70s building with asbestos gutters, and so brackets aren't suitable for plastic gutters. The only thing I can think is there might be somebody who can make gutters to fit - galavanised steel maybe.
Does anybody know of a company who does this or any other suggestions. ?
TIA
Got that wrong with the dates should have said 2004 in my post. Like your idea with the paint.Get up there with a tin of red oxide when there’s no water in them, they’ll last a bit longer.
We first started putting galv external gutters on buildings in Jan 96 they are completely independent of roof and side cladding so can be replaced in minutes if needed the first ones we put on have been hit numerous times with handler and just pulled back rough I know but they still work the ones in the picture were View attachment 866570installed in 2007 and removed earlier this week as the building is being converted and temporarily refitted yesterday and are still very good , plastic cost more takes longer to fit and don’t last as long
Our galv eaves gutters are currently £12, 30 per meter can’t see anything being any cheaper to handle the same volume of waterBit of an old thread but if hopefully this maybe of use to others. Alugutter can manufacture bespoke aluminium systems if our standard gutters are not suitable. We also have an article comparing costs of various gutter materials here.
Our galv eaves gutters are currently £12, 30 per meter can’t see anything being any cheaper to handle the same volume of water