Disco D4 engine breaking in a new engine

[JMTHORNLEY]

Morning,

So long story short, after a lot of issues with my D4 the crack finally snapped and LR have replaced it as a gesture of good will. I'm due to get it back some point next week after it being away for 3-1/2 months however the question is is new engine breaking in. I rarely have a 'new' motor and I was wondering what everyone would be suggesting as a break in procedure to try and get some life and power out of it. I know it could very well happen again and I knew what I was getting into when I bought it so it's been no surprise it went. The D4 works hard for it's living with me towing hard and regularly and often half a ton of tools or other gear in the back of it.

Suggestions and advice on allowing it break in and not prematurely killing it as I really do like this motor, possibly my favourite I've ever had and want to keep her despite the issues it's given over the last few years (no idea why )

Thanks

 

[Farmer_Joe]

Full lr history? How many miles, amazed you got them to pay full contribution the age it must be now? how did you manage that?

love my d4 but you have to accept they do have faults!

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

Full lr history? How many miles, amazed you got them to pay full contribution the age it must be now? how did you manage that?

love my d4 but you have to accept they do have faults!

I have no idea to tell you the truth Joe, full LR history and LR extended warranty that has been spot on. They have replaced a few turbos, suspension compressor and some other bits done to it all under warranty. At first they refused to cover it under extended warranty and the service tech I deal with there and have for years went back to JLR and basically demanded that at 60,000 miles it should be fully covered. 16 plate, one of the very last.
Get on really well with the dealership so I'm sure that helps but was very worried I'd have a 9K+ bill to pay out for it

 

[Farmer_Joe]

Your lucking having a good dealer, mine used to be ok, last time I went in nearly all staff had changed and they were useless…
Mine had a turbo under warranty to at around 30k

 

[Timbo]

This applies to now and after break in - Keep it under 3k rpm ( for the first 1000 miles ) and under 2500rpm when its cold- at least 5miles and as low a load as you can.

When cold revs can soar until the tranny lock up is enabled.

Basically avoid any high load until its warmed through

Itll be an auto, but they can occassionally hold too a high gear at very low rpms, I would use S mode when towing to keep the rpms up - high torque at low rpms is what knocks out the cranks

Extra oil changes are an absolute must 5-6000 intervals and use a genuine filter. It's also apparent that the specified 5w30 c1 grade just isnt good enough, so most in the know run them on 5w40 c3.

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

This applies to now and after break in - Keep it under 3k rpm ( for the first 1000 miles ) and under 2500rpm when its cold- at least 5miles and as low a load as you can.

When cold revs can soar until the tranny lock up is enabled.

Basically avoid any high load until its warmed through

Itll be an auto, but they can occassionally hold too a high gear at very low rpms, I would use S mode when towing to keep the rpms up - high torque at low rpms is what knocks out the cranks

Extra oil changes are an absolute must 5-6000 intervals and use a genuine filter. It's also apparent that the specified 5w30 c1 grade just isnt good enough, so most in the know run them on 5w40 c3.

Thanks for that, very useful

 

[Grouse]

This applies to now and after break in - Keep it under 3k rpm ( for the first 1000 miles ) and under 2500rpm when its cold- at least 5miles and as low a load as you can.

When cold revs can soar until the tranny lock up is enabled.

Basically avoid any high load until its warmed through

Itll be an auto, but they can occassionally hold too a high gear at very low rpms, I would use S mode when towing to keep the rpms up - high torque at low rpms is what knocks out the cranks

Extra oil changes are an absolute must 5-6000 intervals and use a genuine filter. It's also apparent that the specified 5w30 c1 grade just isnt good enough, so most in the know run them on 5w40 c3.

It’s not high torque at low revs which kills the crank - there was a manufacturing fault, and LR issued a TSB Bulletin, the crank shaft span the bearing journals cutting off the oil supply to the crank. Allegedly now rectified by tabs.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10106102-9340.pdf

there are other versions on the internet of this document - see this

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - CRANKSHAFT FAILURE

Community site dedicated to Discovery 3, 4 LR3 and LR4 Owners and Enthusiasts. Totally free to join - message boards, galleries, wiki, off road events, social meetings.

www.disco3.co.uk

 

[Timbo]

It’s not high torque at low revs which kills the crank - there was a manufacturing fault, and LR issued a TSB Bulletin, the crank shaft span the bearing journals cutting off the oil supply to the crank. Allegedly now rectified by tabs.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10106102-9340.pdf

there are other versions on the internet of this document - see this

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - CRANKSHAFT FAILURE

Community site dedicated to Discovery 3, 4 LR3 and LR4 Owners and Enthusiasts. Totally free to join - message boards, galleries, wiki, off road events, social meetings.

www.disco3.co.uk

Completely correct, but what is it that causes the shells to spin in the first place? The crank micro welding to them...high load low speed operation...

 

[Lincsman]

I have no idea to tell you the truth Joe, full LR history and LR extended warranty that has been spot on. They have replaced a few turbos, suspension compressor and some other bits done to it all under warranty. At first they refused to cover it under extended warranty and the service tech I deal with there and have for years went back to JLR and basically demanded that at 60,000 miles it should be fully covered. 16 plate, one of the very last.
Get on really well with the dealership so I'm sure that helps but was very worried I'd have a 9K+ bill to pay out for it

All that in the first 60k miles?..,. LR are a different world, i usually get to 80k miles with brake pads and tyres only.

 

[ollie989898]

All that in the first 60k miles?..,. LR are a different world, i usually get to 80k miles with brake pads and tyres only.

Indeed, makes you question how safe it is to run the thing to big miles in future?

Lovely cars but would make me spit having to spend so much money on them to keep them going. LR have JCB disease- making too many cars.

 

[TripleSix]

Break in procedures will be in your owners manual.

Or be gentle with it for 500 miles then kick it everywhere....

 

[Farmer_Joe]

Seen them service documents before I thought the tabbed shells were 2014 on but they did not work?

What operations were you doing when it failed heavy load?

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

Seen them service documents before I thought the tabbed shells were 2014 on but they did not work?

What operations were you doing when it failed heavy load?

Yep heavy load, didn’t go instantly either. Managed to limp it home 8 mile and rang Land Rover following morning and they advised to drive it in. I was very unsure about doing it but they insisted so I did. Got 3 mile from home and pop. Made hell of a grumbling noise, one I’d never really heard before from a failing engine

 

[mf7480]

Why would a car Diesel engine be different to a an agricultural engine where the break in procedure is work it as hard as possible at varying revs

 

[Timbo]

Why would a car Diesel engine be different to a an agricultural engine where the break in procedure is work it as hard as possible at varying revs

Cos theyre based on a flawed design

 

[Two Tone]

The reason why your crank split is that some idiot at the factory over stressed it, when straightening it after it had been ground. The culprit was eventually discovered and sacked on the spot!
He had been using 2 & 1/2 times more pressure that he was told to, thinking he was doing LR a favour, rather than binning cranks that needed more than the maximum force recommended to straighten them. He’d been doing it for 6 years.

 

[JMTHORNLEY]

The reason why your crank split is that some idiot at the factory over stressed it, when straightening it after it had been ground. The culprit was eventually discovered and sacked on the spot!
He had been using 2 & 1/2 times more pressure that he was told to, thinking he was doing LR a favour, rather than binning cranks that needed more than the maximum force recommended to straighten them. He’d been doing it for 6 years.

So what your saying to me is this new engine won’t give in due to crank failure?
That’d be one hell of a weight off my mind

How on earth did they discover that and also not sooner…?

 

[Farmer_Joe]

Does your engine number fall within the effected one from the service thing above I imagine most must as it’s Jan 16?

 

[Chips]

All that in the first 60k miles?..,. LR are a different world, i usually get to 80k miles with brake pads and tyres only.

60k , mine did it in 20K !

 

[Benr]

We have got a 2016 one that went at 30k. Interested in this as the new engine is coming up to that again! Will look at the engine number tomorrow, but as it was replaced in 2018 hopefully it will be ok?!