Dissolving ordinary urea ,say 5 to 7 kg in 200 Lt sprayed with crop spraying nozzles per htr would this burn from now to June possibly 5 times. Information greatley appreciated thanks
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Been thinking about doing this for headlands as we have small fields, how do you dissolve it ?Do it when crop damp , dissolve urea to spray headlands use normal nozzles on damp crop with no issues
I used a 2500lt tank with a 2" camlock outlet connected to a petrol powered pump then back into the top of the tank. It only had a standard hatch in the top but it you're careful and hang the bag over the top and cut a small hole it will all go in, do it on some concrete and the little bit that gets wasted can be swept up and chucked in. There are some recipes on the forum somewhere but I think I used 1500lt to 1t ureaBeen thinking about doing this for headlands as we have small fields, how do you dissolve it ?
We have recently taken our old bulk milk tank out of the dairy was planning on building a hopper over it to hold the urea and let it trickle into the tank with the paddles goingI used a 2500lt tank with a 2" camlock outlet connected to a petrol powered pump then back into the top of the tank. It only had a standard hatch in the top but it you're careful and hang the bag over the top and cut a small hole it will all go in, do it on some concrete and the little bit that gets wasted can be swept up and chucked in. There are some recipes on the forum somewhere but I think I used 1500lt to 1t urea
If its an insulated tank it might have issues with absorbing ambient heat, but then again if you had a plate cooler and a biomass boiler you might be alright!We have recently taken our old bulk milk tank out of the dairy was planning on building a hopper over it to hold the urea and let it trickle into the tank with the paddles going
Simplest answer is mix higher strength to 20N and just spray in evenings/night unless its hot [over 20 degrees] plus windy.Dissolving ordinary urea ,say 5 to 7 kg in 200 Lt sprayed with crop spraying nozzles per htr would this burn from now to June possibly 5 times. Information greatley appreciated thanks
Well that's something I've learnt today, I always thought when you mixed water with chemicals you got heat as part of the reactions as in adding caustic soda to treat straw, that got really hot. Our tank is old school ice bank tech with kids so no insulation and with two agitators should allow ambient air temp to warm it up ok (I hope)If its an insulated tank it might have issues with absorbing ambient heat, but then again if you had a plate cooler and a biomass boiler you might be alright!
Dissolving urea in water is endothermic* and will drop the temperature of the solution down to -10C, it takes a lot of ambient heat to warm it back up to 0C for the last of it to melt. Think of it like a bath of ice water, it will eventually warm itself to the temperature of the room it's in, but the warmer the air in the room (or the outside air temperature around the fert tank) the quicker it will warm up.
[* - it's the same reaction you get with a sports ice pack, when you bend it to mix the water and urea inside.]
Might be a Kaolin clay coating.Only thing is there was a really nasty grey oily sludge that would float to the top when I melted the urea. Is that normal
1500 plastic tank cheap submersible pump once ice on outside of tank has gone its mixed 24hrs usuallyBeen thinking about doing this for headlands as we have small fields, how do you dissolve it ?
Might be a Kaolin clay coating.
I’ve had similar when melting AN and SoP, a horrible greasy gunk that you can skim off with a pond net, horrible stuff.
Been thinking about doing this for headlands as we have small fields, how do you dissolve it ?
Foliar N is rather more complex than dissolved urea. It is polymerised urea, with other additives which might include molasses, humic acid and others. It is really viscous and sticky. See some of Joel Williams' YouTubes on the subject, here is a short oneI'm planning to dissolve my own urea in the new year...
From research, foliar applied N is far more efficient than soil applied. Fert nozzles are far too coarse to stick to the leaf, and will bead off onto the soil.
How can I mitigate scorch when using a flat fan? I'm wondering if I use a bubble jet nozzle?
I never considered that most of the liquid would end up on the soil, which is far from ideal
ThanksFoliar N is rather more complex than dissolved urea. It is polymerised urea, with other additives which might include molasses, humic acid and others. It is really viscous and sticky. See some of Joel Williams' YouTubes on the subject, here is a short one