Drill logistics trailer

[Mursal]

Might consider a bolt-on protection rail along the front, for the outer corners of the plastic tank.
Take a bit of pressure of the pilot, in the tight spots

In-house sparky or a contractor ...............

 

[Clive]

Might consider a bolt-on protection rail along the front, for the outer corners of the plastic tank.
Take a bit of pressure of the pilot, in the tight spots

In-house sparky or a contractor ...............

there is a guard planned to protect the pipework but not fitted yet

contractor sparky, beyond our wit i'm afraid and we are all busy with drills and combines right now

 

[Tok1]

Very smart nice project!!!

 

[Clive]

Not had time to fit lights and a few other finishing touches and details to sort so getting a bit of use and very pleased with how it's working

Will be back in the workshop to complete when we get drilled up

 

[Clive]

Finally had time to get back onto finishing this, we were interrupted by needing to use it for autumn drilling ! but back in the workshop now, having used it as well as the finishing up jobs we also found a few changes we wanted to make

Mostly pictures of various LED lighting mounts here ready for wiring up after christmas. All the LED's have come from @UTV Products and I have to say how excellent their service has been, they did all the planning and recommended suitable products for each position, they provided a photoshopped picture of the trailer showing the layout of how they would look, calculated power loads etc. the quality of the lights is also excellent.

Front corner markers on stainless mounting brackets

Guard to protect fert tank outlet as using it this autumn we felt it was vulnerable to getting caught with disastrous concequence if meeting another vehicle on a narrow road !

Light to provide working light to the fert tank outlet

LED side marker lights for road

LED side marker at rear also showing the now sheeted in rear box which we decided was better than the mesh we had used, hook is to hold doors back when in use to stop wind catching them

LED working light on end of auger to iluminate how full the hoper is

Rear road lighting including x2 strobes, corner marker etc

Rear mesh now replaced with sheet and door latches modified to be lockable, hinges also modified so doors can open flat back to sides for latching

Rear LED working light over rear box area

 

[Clive]

LED light over hopper opening mechanism and big modification to the opening as the Western levers were rubbish ! this is much easier to open and close now

Another showing the rear bumper / road lighting

 

[Mursal]

A few hours wiring that lot up, to a high standard

Proper tidy .................

 

[madmatt]

Where you taking the power source for the worklamps from Clive?

 

[Clive]

Where you taking the power source for the worklamps from Clive?

Plan is road lighting will be one circuit and working lights on another than can be run from the towing tractor if present or the drill via a power plug next to the auger hydraulic connections when the trailer is not with a tractor.

Also considering a battery / solar panel connected to a PIR but not sure if it would last long enough ?

 

[madmatt]

Sounds like a good plan I like the pir sensor idea but it would need an isolator or the work lights would be forever coming on when it's parked in the yard at night! . A decent quality bigish battery would run them work lights for a while.

 

[Jfp]

@UTV Products

What do you find is the best way of wiring those
leds in? What i mean is that the wires are never long enough to reach back to the junction box so you have to put a join in an awkward place where it is vulnerable to being broken and often where it isn't easy to join fiddly little wires, like in the corner of a trailer underneath. Just overall seems a bad idea, how do you get round it?

 

[UTV Products]

@Jfp

In all honesty I have never had an issue with properly soldered joints using lead based solder and two layers of heatshrink. Properly fixed cables (to the frame) ensure nothing is pulled plus I always personally avoid running anything without the main runs covered in copex, be it solid or split. Cheers.

 

[Lincsman]

@UTV Products

What do you find is the best way of wiring those
leds in? What i mean is that the wires are never long enough to reach back to the junction box so you have to put a join in an awkward place where it is vulnerable to being broken and often where it isn't easy to join fiddly little wires, like in the corner of a trailer underneath. Just overall seems a bad idea, how do you get round it?

A soldered joint will never break, its the strongest bit of the cable, as for running cables, the ideal is inside the box sections or a purpose added pipe tacked on.

Depending on the light I often chop the wires back and join inside the light holder.

 

[Clive]

@Jfp

In all honesty I have never had an issue with properly soldered joints using lead based solder and two layers of heatshrink. Properly fixed cables (to the frame) ensure nothing is pulled plus I always personally avoid running anything without the main runs covered in copex, be it solid or split. Cheers.

was thinking either solder and heat shrink or the deutz plugs that a water sealed ??

 

[Clive]

Sounds like a good plan I like the pir sensor idea but it would need an isolator or the work lights would be forever coming on when it's parked in the yard at night! . A decent quality bigish battery would run them work lights for a while.

how long would a decent battery last though before flat ? and would the daylight charge form a solar panel be enough to keep it topped up ?

my concern is it won't get put on charge and will be no use if flat when we want to use it

 

[Lincsman]

how long would a decent battery last though before flat ? and would the daylight charge form a solar panel be enough to keep it topped up ?

my concern is it won't get put on charge and will be no use if flat when we want to use it

Better with a dedicated 3 pin plug on each tractor to power work lights, and cheaper.

 

[Clive]

Better with a dedicated 3 pin plug on each tractor to power work lights, and cheaper.

I've got a solar panel and a good battery so it wouldn't costs much to do, my concern is more how long the power would last

is it posible to work that out ?

 

[madmatt]

Yep but we would need to know total wattage of work lights and the AH rating of your battery.

 

[Mursal]

Yes ampere-hour capacity of the battery divided by the amps used, will give a good ball park figure. Obviously the closer you get to "flat" the less output there will be, it just doesn't stop. 200Ah should in theory give 2 Amps for 100 hours.
I would have thought, you will need a good size panel to charge the battery up during daylight for working through that night, especially in November. A little genny on a remote start off the keyring?

Something like this bolted to the chassis, just an example click
The panel could be used to keep the starting battery topped up.

 

[Lincsman]

I've got a solar panel and a good battery so it wouldn't costs much to do, my concern is more how long the power would last

is it posible to work that out ?

Still think your over complicating it and putting potential problems into the system, tractors have a reliable ready charged power source why not use it?