Fendt Farmer 306LSA

[bullgoose]

How do you tilt the cab on this thing? Ant tips on repairing the PTO clutch, before I dive in?

 

[icanshootwell]

Moved

 

[oakleaf]

There must be some people on here farming in Poland, can they tell us if there are any fabbl type schemes they have to join to sell through ABP or into supermarkets, also for export what is the policy?
It,s about time we stood together and kicked this red tractor boloc#ks into touch!! what would the French farmers do?

Well I suppose Fendt Farmers do have red wheels.?

 

[SuperTwo]

How do you tilt the cab on this thing? Ant tips on repairing the PTO clutch, before I dive in?

Im nearly sure its a normal clutch plate located in the bell housing along with the main clutch no need to take the cab off

 

[bullgoose]

Im nearly sure its a normal clutch plate located in the bell housing along with the main clutch no need to take the cab off

Yep, thanks. I'm aware that the pto clutch and the cab aren't related: just trying to get two questions answered in one hit. The PTO clutch is 'easily' accessed from the side with no need to split the tractor, and the clutches are arranged, from front to back, turbo clutch-clutch-PTO clutch. There are fifteen clutch plates plus a 'pressure plate' in the PTO clutch and, at a minimum $65 Australian each, I'm in no hurry to replace them all. Scrutiny of the online Fendt manuals for the old Farmer 300 series has led me to believe they were written (or typed on a ribbon typewriter) for Mensa candidates fluent in Old German, and the B&W photos could be of a moon landing, a colo-rectal procedure on a marmot or Elvis Presley's burger grill at Graceland. Accordingly, I have posted in the hope that someone who has removed that innocent-looking side cover, gone in, done the business, come out and gone on to lead a relatively normal life might be willing to take pity and send me some pointers, german translation or just words of general encouragement.

 

[SuperTwo]

Yep, thanks. I'm aware that the pto clutch and the cab aren't related: just trying to get two questions answered in one hit. The PTO clutch is 'easily' accessed from the side with no need to split the tractor, and the clutches are arranged, from front to back, turbo clutch-clutch-PTO clutch. There are fifteen clutch plates plus a 'pressure plate' in the PTO clutch and, at a minimum $65 Australian each, I'm in no hurry to replace them all. Scrutiny of the online Fendt manuals for the old Farmer 300 series has led me to believe they were written (or typed on a ribbon typewriter) for Mensa candidates fluent in Old German, and the B&W photos could be of a moon landing, a colo-rectal procedure on a marmot or Elvis Presley's burger grill at Graceland. Accordingly, I have posted in the hope that someone who has removed that innocent-looking side cover, gone in, done the business, come out and gone on to lead a relatively normal life might be willing to take pity and send me some pointers, german translation or just words of general encouragement.

Im no expert on these ive done some work on a 1984 305 model before.
What year is your tractor? Mid 80s model?
How is the pto activated with a hand clutch and a knob by your right heel that you pull up for different speeds or is it electronically activated?

 

[oakleaf]

Yep, thanks. I'm aware that the pto clutch and the cab aren't related: just trying to get two questions answered in one hit. The PTO clutch is 'easily' accessed from the side with no need to split the tractor, and the clutches are arranged, from front to back, turbo clutch-clutch-PTO clutch. There are fifteen clutch plates plus a 'pressure plate' in the PTO clutch and, at a minimum $65 Australian each, I'm in no hurry to replace them all. Scrutiny of the online Fendt manuals for the old Farmer 300 series has led me to believe they were written (or typed on a ribbon typewriter) for Mensa candidates fluent in Old German, and the B&W photos could be of a moon landing, a colo-rectal procedure on a marmot or Elvis Presley's burger grill at Graceland. Accordingly, I have posted in the hope that someone who has removed that innocent-looking side cover, gone in, done the business, come out and gone on to lead a relatively normal life might be willing to take pity and send me some pointers, german translation or just words of general encouragement.

Yea , hear what you are saying about the manuals.
I had a 308 with one just like you described.
I never knew it had a tilting cab and am afraid l cant help with the pto clutch either as although mine had 14000 hours on it , the clutches were all original on it when it left here 10 years ago.
Nor can l offer assistance on german translation as being educated in Ireland we were only taught English & Irish as all those old european languages were considered unnecessary by our "esteemed" teachers in the 1970's.
I will however wish you plenty of luck and encouragement for when you dive in and hope it works out ok for you.

 

[bullgoose]

Im no expert on these ive done some work on a 1984 305 model before.
What year is your tractor? Mid 80s model?
How is the pto activated with a hand clutch and a knob by your right heel that you pull up for different speeds or is it electronically activated?

Thanks, mine is early 90s and the pto clutch is the hand-operated one.

 

[bullgoose]

Yea , hear what you are saying about the manuals.
I had a 308 with one just like you described.
I never knew it had a tilting cab and am afraid l cant help with the pto clutch either as although mine had 14000 hours on it , the clutches were all original on it when it left here 10 years ago.
Nor can l offer assistance on german translation as being educated in Ireland we were only taught English & Irish as all those old european languages were considered unnecessary by our "esteemed" teachers in the 1970's.
I will however wish you plenty of luck and encouragement for when you dive in and hope it works out ok for you.

Thanks. What could possibly go wrong? It's a clutch, not the Large Hadron Collider.

 

[bullgoose]

No further replies, so I have pressed on. For anyone else hunting for Farmer 306 help, try this site: http://fendt.servicemanualvault.com/Fendt-Farmer-310-LSA-Workshop-Manual.html
The Farmer 310 LSA is the same series as the 306, so most of the info is the same. I got it for around $16 Australian, and it is the real deal. The English translation is not on the same page as the diagrams, so you have to flick backwards and forwards a bit (a lot). The PTO job is not a simple one: there are several measurements to make and one special tool required (although it doesn't look too complicated to make). I can't put the job off any longer, so I'll report back when/if I finish.

As for tilting the cab, or perhaps 'backwards-arc transformation cab zee of' (if my Aussie-Chermann dictionary is to be believed), I offer you five words: don't try to wing it. I guarantee even MENSA-level engineers would miss one, or ten, of the steps if they tried to tilt the cab without referring to the manual. It's not quite a case of 'Disassemble the whole tractor, and the five tractors closest to it, then tilt the cab', but it is well on the way down that autobahn. I'd say that by Day Three you will definitely be in a position to start the next three days, an a couple of all-nighters, of the tilting process.

All jokes aside, the pre-computer 80s-90s Fendt Farmers are magnificent machines, forgiving as a farm dog. I bought mine with 11,000 hours on the clock and have only spent $700 in fifteen years. I know, that marks me down as a cheapskate, tighter than a flea's turning circle, but let's be honest, it comes with the farming demographic. Some parts prices will have you squealing for your mother, but that's the same with all brands (except, of course, UTB/Farmliner). And OK, my 306's. turboclutch craves 10W hydraulic oil like Trump craves himself. I'll stop now.

 

[oakleaf]

No further replies, so I have pressed on. For anyone else hunting for Farmer 306 help, try this site: http://fendt.servicemanualvault.com/Fendt-Farmer-310-LSA-Workshop-Manual.html
The Farmer 310 LSA is the same series as the 306, so most of the info is the same. I got it for around $16 Australian, and it is the real deal. The English translation is not on the same page as the diagrams, so you have to flick backwards and forwards a bit (a lot). The PTO job is not a simple one: there are several measurements to make and one special tool required (although it doesn't look too complicated to make). I can't put the job off any longer, so I'll report back when/if I finish.

As for tilting the cab, or perhaps 'backwards-arc transformation cab zee of' (if my Aussie-Chermann dictionary is to be believed), I offer you five words: don't try to wing it. I guarantee even MENSA-level engineers would miss one, or ten, of the steps if they tried to tilt the cab without referring to the manual. It's not quite a case of 'Disassemble the whole tractor, and the five tractors closest to it, then tilt the cab', but it is well on the way down that autobahn. I'd say that by Day Three you will definitely be in a position to start the next three days, an a couple of all-nighters, of the tilting process.

All jokes aside, the pre-computer 80s-90s Fendt Farmers are magnificent machines, forgiving as a farm dog. I bought mine with 11,000 hours on the clock and have only spent $700 in fifteen years. I know, that marks me down as a cheapskate, tighter than a flea's turning circle, but let's be honest, it comes with the farming demographic. Some parts prices will have you squealing for your mother, but that's the same with all brands (except, of course, UTB/Farmliner). And OK, my 306's. turboclutch craves 10W hydraulic oil like Trump craves himself. I'll stop now.

We've had 308 x2 , 309 , 311 & 312 and never put oil in any turboclutch. The manual says to change it at 5000 hours but our dealer said to leave them alone . The 312 went to 18000 hours and left here for Poland on its original turboclutch oil. Might even still be going for all l know.

Yes , some parts are mad prices but lots are well priced compared with say 50 series Deeres.

We really liked the 300 series too. They just keep on going. Still have one 311 and she will not be leaving here anytime l am above ground. I really still enjoy operating it.
Great description about cab tilting. Now l know why we never tried that .

AFAIK the 304 ,5 ,6 ,7 ,8 & 9 were all fairly similar regarding working on them.
The 310 , 11 & 12 were some bit different but it sounds that you have the confidence to dive in as you say.

I look foward to your next update as you write an amusing post.

 

[blaser]

We have a 308 and all of a sudden it won’t engage a gear
, does anybody have an idea of what has gone wrong?

 

[bullgoose]

We have a 308 and all of a sudden it won’t engage a gear
, does anybody have an idea of what has gone wrong?

If your tractor won't go into gear, that's one thing, but if you can select a gear but nothing happens try checking: S-L lever might be in neither S or L position- shift it fully to S or L; H-L (hare and tortoise) lever may not be in H or L position- ditto; Turbo Clutch is low on 10W hydraulic oil-drain and re-fill with exactly the correct volume of 10W hydraulic oil (not hydraulic fluid)
If it literally won't go into gear: cold oil; clutch wear/malfunction/ adjustment-probably will be grating/grinding noise; stick/rock/clod/tennis ball/ dead rat (in Australia it's often mud wasp's nest) obstructing movement of gear lever- put a bit of pointed stick about; scary internal defliction of gearbox shaft/gear/fork-consider life of crime/politics/selling valuable mother-in-law, in order to gather unto yourself a shirtload of Oxford Scholars to pay for gearbox repairs. Please note: I'm talking about earlier Farmers with manual, non-solenoid features here, although general principles remain the same.

 

[bullgoose]

We've had 308 x2 , 309 , 311 & 312 and never put oil in any turboclutch. The manual says to change it at 5000 hours but our dealer said to leave them alone . The 312 went to 18000 hours and left here for Poland on its original turboclutch oil. Might even still be going for all l know.

Yes , some parts are mad prices but lots are well priced compared with say 50 series Deeres.

We really liked the 300 series too. They just keep on going. Still have one 311 and she will not be leaving here anytime l am above ground. I really still enjoy operating it.
Great description about cab tilting. Now l know why we never tried that .

AFAIK the 304 ,5 ,6 ,7 ,8 & 9 were all fairly similar regarding working on them.
The 310 , 11 & 12 were some bit different but it sounds that you have the confidence to dive in as you say.

I look foward to your next update as you write an amusing post.

Good News in Dark Times
In a nutcase: Got PTO its mojo back; fixed in four hours (team of two); cost nothing/nil/zero; next time could get it down to under an hour.

What the workshop manual doesn't tell you:
Print off the 16 pages of the manual dealing with PTO clutch and put them in a plastic sleeve display folder.
Print off a copy of the Times (etc) Cryptic Crossword, and put it in the display folder too.
Remove the front drive shaft at front universal (if model is LSA). This gives you better access to the lever under the tractor on left hand side that moves clutch in and out.
The manual is cavalier in its use of the word 'lever' (at least in the English translation, which is two pages ahead of the photographs). 'Lever' can mean the PTO clutch lever in the cab, or it can mean the one under the tractor.
Start by putting the (cab) lever in the forward position to de-tension the PTO clutch cable.
Remove split pin then pin from yoke connecting cable to the (under tractor) lever.
Loosen the (under tractor) lever and rotate it forward (anti clockwise). Tighten the bejesus out of it again, then use the lever to unscrew the shaft CLOCKWISE (left hand thread). This will be strenuous job.
Remove (under tractor) lever from shaft and remove shaft.
Now move to other side of tractor. Put PTO lever out of neutral and into a PTO speed position. Jam PTO shaft at the back of the tractor with something hefty and tie a string from it to your ignition key because you don't want to be starting up the tractor while the hefty thing is in there- bad, bad ju ju! Remove side cover, remove journal pin (massive hex head), remove yoke, remove 19mm hex head retaining bolt from end of shaft, remove bush, little tension washers, pairs of big cupped washers, collar (in one piece- don't disassemble unless it is rattling/grinding/bone dry- this will save you half a lifetime), pressure plate and the 17 clutch plates. Stop there and wipe clean all parts. There should be facing material on the 'faced' plates. If all is well, you are probably only going to need to remove one or two of the little tension washers to restore pressure to the clutch. Stack up the big cupped washers on a flat surface and measure the height. Write it down, eg 38mm. Grease up the bits that need greasing then assemble the clutch back on the shaft, but leave the big cupped washers off. Measure distance between shoulder of bush and pressure plate. Write that down and do the calculation described in the manual. You may need to refer to the Cryptic Crossword here. The upshot will probably be that you need to remove one or more of the little washers. Do that, and re-re-assemble , this time including the big cupped pressure washers. Leave the side cover off for the moment.
Return to the left side of the tractor, screw the shaft (referred to as 'journal pin'), anticlockwise. There's a hole in the shaft so you can stick a lodger in there to help you tighten the boohoozola (about 250Nm) out of it. Now it gets weird. Replace the (under tractor) lever, but don't tighten it. There are two threaded adjustment points on PTO clutch cable. Wind them to around the middle position (so you can tighten or loosen cable, as necessary, laterCheck out the (cab) clutch lever. There's a 20mm free play thing, adjusted by adding or subtracting washers to the 13mm hex head bolt sticking out of the fascia. The next part is a Cryptic Crossword thing. You have to rotate the (under cab) lever on its shaft (journal pin) so there is 70mm movement on the (cab) lever AND the clutch will disengage and engage nicely. This will necessitate you tightening and loosening the (under tractor) lever a few times to get things right. You can check by peeping at the clutch (that's why you leave the side cover off) while your assistant works the cab lever.
Now is the time to remove the hefty jamming device from the PTO shaft at back of tractor and attach some greedy PTO implement (in my case a post hole auger). Remove string from ignition key and fire up ze Fendt. Test out the PTO. If there's slippage, you're going to have to remove another little washer. If PTO doesn't stop when you pull on (cab) lever, re-adjust the (under tractor) lever. Why not use the cable adjustment nuts? Because you want to save them for another day. Thanks for your interest.

 

[bullgoose]

Good News in Dark Times
In a nutcase: Got PTO its mojo back; fixed in four hours (team of two); cost nothing/nil/zero; next time could get it down to under an hour.

What the workshop manual doesn't tell you:
Print off the 16 pages of the manual dealing with PTO clutch and put them in a plastic sleeve display folder.
Print off a copy of the Times (etc) Cryptic Crossword, and put it in the display folder too.
Remove the front drive shaft at front universal (if model is LSA). This gives you better access to the lever under the tractor on left hand side that moves clutch in and out.
The manual is cavalier in its use of the word 'lever' (at least in the English translation, which is two pages ahead of the photographs). 'Lever' can mean the PTO clutch lever in the cab, or it can mean the one under the tractor.
Start by putting the (cab) lever in the forward position to de-tension the PTO clutch cable.
Remove split pin then pin from yoke connecting cable to the (under tractor) lever.
Loosen the (under tractor) lever and rotate it forward (anti clockwise). Tighten the bejesus out of it again, then use the lever to unscrew the shaft CLOCKWISE (left hand thread). This will be strenuous job.
Remove (under tractor) lever from shaft and remove shaft.
Now move to other side of tractor. Put PTO lever out of neutral and into a PTO speed position. Jam PTO shaft at the back of the tractor with something hefty and tie a string from it to your ignition key because you don't want to be starting up the tractor while the hefty thing is in there- bad, bad ju ju! Remove side cover, remove journal pin (massive hex head), remove yoke, remove 19mm hex head retaining bolt from end of shaft, remove bush, little tension washers, pairs of big cupped washers, collar (in one piece- don't disassemble unless it is rattling/grinding/bone dry- this will save you half a lifetime), pressure plate and the 17 clutch plates. Stop there and wipe clean all parts. There should be facing material on the 'faced' plates. If all is well, you are probably only going to need to remove one or two of the little tension washers to restore pressure to the clutch. Stack up the big cupped washers on a flat surface and measure the height. Write it down, eg 38mm. Grease up the bits that need greasing then assemble the clutch back on the shaft, but leave the big cupped washers off. Measure distance between shoulder of bush and pressure plate. Write that down and do the calculation described in the manual. You may need to refer to the Cryptic Crossword here. The upshot will probably be that you need to remove one or more of the little washers. Do that, and re-re-assemble , this time including the big cupped pressure washers. Leave the side cover off for the moment.
Return to the left side of the tractor, screw the shaft (referred to as 'journal pin'), anticlockwise. There's a hole in the shaft so you can stick a lodger in there to help you tighten the boohoozola (about 250Nm) out of it. Now it gets weird. Replace the (under tractor) lever, but don't tighten it. There are two threaded adjustment points on PTO clutch cable. Wind them to around the middle position (so you can tighten or loosen cable, as necessary, laterCheck out the (cab) clutch lever. There's a 20mm free play thing, adjusted by adding or subtracting washers to the 13mm hex head bolt sticking out of the fascia. The next part is a Cryptic Crossword thing. You have to rotate the (under cab) lever on its shaft (journal pin) so there is 70mm movement on the (cab) lever AND the clutch will disengage and engage nicely. This will necessitate you tightening and loosening the (under tractor) lever a few times to get things right. You can check by peeping at the clutch (that's why you leave the side cover off) while your assistant works the cab lever.
Now is the time to remove the hefty jamming device from the PTO shaft at back of tractor and attach some greedy PTO implement (in my case a post hole auger). Remove string from ignition key and fire up ze Fendt. Test out the PTO. If there's slippage, you're going to have to remove another little washer. If PTO doesn't stop when you pull on (cab) lever, re-adjust the (under tractor) lever. Why not use the cable adjustment nuts? Because you want to save them for another day. Thanks for your interest.

Sorry, only in extreme circumstances would you stick a 'lodger' in the hole in journal pin. What the mongrel 'auto correct' didn't realise is that I meant a 'p-o-d-g-e-r'.

 

[KennyO]

Good News in Dark Times
In a nutcase: Got PTO its mojo back; fixed in four hours (team of two); cost nothing/nil/zero; next time could get it down to under an hour.

What the workshop manual doesn't tell you:
Print off the 16 pages of the manual dealing with PTO clutch and put them in a plastic sleeve display folder.
Print off a copy of the Times (etc) Cryptic Crossword, and put it in the display folder too.
Remove the front drive shaft at front universal (if model is LSA). This gives you better access to the lever under the tractor on left hand side that moves clutch in and out.
The manual is cavalier in its use of the word 'lever' (at least in the English translation, which is two pages ahead of the photographs). 'Lever' can mean the PTO clutch lever in the cab, or it can mean the one under the tractor.
Start by putting the (cab) lever in the forward position to de-tension the PTO clutch cable.
Remove split pin then pin from yoke connecting cable to the (under tractor) lever.
Loosen the (under tractor) lever and rotate it forward (anti clockwise). Tighten the bejesus out of it again, then use the lever to unscrew the shaft CLOCKWISE (left hand thread). This will be strenuous job.
Remove (under tractor) lever from shaft and remove shaft.
Now move to other side of tractor. Put PTO lever out of neutral and into a PTO speed position. Jam PTO shaft at the back of the tractor with something hefty and tie a string from it to your ignition key because you don't want to be starting up the tractor while the hefty thing is in there- bad, bad ju ju! Remove side cover, remove journal pin (massive hex head), remove yoke, remove 19mm hex head retaining bolt from end of shaft, remove bush, little tension washers, pairs of big cupped washers, collar (in one piece- don't disassemble unless it is rattling/grinding/bone dry- this will save you half a lifetime), pressure plate and the 17 clutch plates. Stop there and wipe clean all parts. There should be facing material on the 'faced' plates. If all is well, you are probably only going to need to remove one or two of the little tension washers to restore pressure to the clutch. Stack up the big cupped washers on a flat surface and measure the height. Write it down, eg 38mm. Grease up the bits that need greasing then assemble the clutch back on the shaft, but leave the big cupped washers off. Measure distance between shoulder of bush and pressure plate. Write that down and do the calculation described in the manual. You may need to refer to the Cryptic Crossword here. The upshot will probably be that you need to remove one or more of the little washers. Do that, and re-re-assemble , this time including the big cupped pressure washers. Leave the side cover off for the moment.
Return to the left side of the tractor, screw the shaft (referred to as 'journal pin'), anticlockwise. There's a hole in the shaft so you can stick a lodger in there to help you tighten the boohoozola (about 250Nm) out of it. Now it gets weird. Replace the (under tractor) lever, but don't tighten it. There are two threaded adjustment points on PTO clutch cable. Wind them to around the middle position (so you can tighten or loosen cable, as necessary, laterCheck out the (cab) clutch lever. There's a 20mm free play thing, adjusted by adding or subtracting washers to the 13mm hex head bolt sticking out of the fascia. The next part is a Cryptic Crossword thing. You have to rotate the (under cab) lever on its shaft (journal pin) so there is 70mm movement on the (cab) lever AND the clutch will disengage and engage nicely. This will necessitate you tightening and loosening the (under tractor) lever a few times to get things right. You can check by peeping at the clutch (that's why you leave the side cover off) while your assistant works the cab lever.
Now is the time to remove the hefty jamming device from the PTO shaft at back of tractor and attach some greedy PTO implement (in my case a post hole auger). Remove string from ignition key and fire up ze Fendt. Test out the PTO. If there's slippage, you're going to have to remove another little washer. If PTO doesn't stop when you pull on (cab) lever, re-adjust the (under tractor) lever. Why not use the cable adjustment nuts? Because you want to save them for another day. Thanks for your interest.

I will never have the need to adjust the pto clutch on an old Fendt however I really enjoyedyour post

 

[TripleSix]

Good News in Dark Times
In a nutcase: Got PTO its mojo back; fixed in four hours (team of two); cost nothing/nil/zero; next time could get it down to under an hour.

What the workshop manual doesn't tell you:
Print off the 16 pages of the manual dealing with PTO clutch and put them in a plastic sleeve display folder.
Print off a copy of the Times (etc) Cryptic Crossword, and put it in the display folder too.
Remove the front drive shaft at front universal (if model is LSA). This gives you better access to the lever under the tractor on left hand side that moves clutch in and out.
The manual is cavalier in its use of the word 'lever' (at least in the English translation, which is two pages ahead of the photographs). 'Lever' can mean the PTO clutch lever in the cab, or it can mean the one under the tractor.
Start by putting the (cab) lever in the forward position to de-tension the PTO clutch cable.
Remove split pin then pin from yoke connecting cable to the (under tractor) lever.
Loosen the (under tractor) lever and rotate it forward (anti clockwise). Tighten the bejesus out of it again, then use the lever to unscrew the shaft CLOCKWISE (left hand thread). This will be strenuous job.
Remove (under tractor) lever from shaft and remove shaft.
Now move to other side of tractor. Put PTO lever out of neutral and into a PTO speed position. Jam PTO shaft at the back of the tractor with something hefty and tie a string from it to your ignition key because you don't want to be starting up the tractor while the hefty thing is in there- bad, bad ju ju! Remove side cover, remove journal pin (massive hex head), remove yoke, remove 19mm hex head retaining bolt from end of shaft, remove bush, little tension washers, pairs of big cupped washers, collar (in one piece- don't disassemble unless it is rattling/grinding/bone dry- this will save you half a lifetime), pressure plate and the 17 clutch plates. Stop there and wipe clean all parts. There should be facing material on the 'faced' plates. If all is well, you are probably only going to need to remove one or two of the little tension washers to restore pressure to the clutch. Stack up the big cupped washers on a flat surface and measure the height. Write it down, eg 38mm. Grease up the bits that need greasing then assemble the clutch back on the shaft, but leave the big cupped washers off. Measure distance between shoulder of bush and pressure plate. Write that down and do the calculation described in the manual. You may need to refer to the Cryptic Crossword here. The upshot will probably be that you need to remove one or more of the little washers. Do that, and re-re-assemble , this time including the big cupped pressure washers. Leave the side cover off for the moment.
Return to the left side of the tractor, screw the shaft (referred to as 'journal pin'), anticlockwise. There's a hole in the shaft so you can stick a lodger in there to help you tighten the boohoozola (about 250Nm) out of it. Now it gets weird. Replace the (under tractor) lever, but don't tighten it. There are two threaded adjustment points on PTO clutch cable. Wind them to around the middle position (so you can tighten or loosen cable, as necessary, laterCheck out the (cab) clutch lever. There's a 20mm free play thing, adjusted by adding or subtracting washers to the 13mm hex head bolt sticking out of the fascia. The next part is a Cryptic Crossword thing. You have to rotate the (under cab) lever on its shaft (journal pin) so there is 70mm movement on the (cab) lever AND the clutch will disengage and engage nicely. This will necessitate you tightening and loosening the (under tractor) lever a few times to get things right. You can check by peeping at the clutch (that's why you leave the side cover off) while your assistant works the cab lever.
Now is the time to remove the hefty jamming device from the PTO shaft at back of tractor and attach some greedy PTO implement (in my case a post hole auger). Remove string from ignition key and fire up ze Fendt. Test out the PTO. If there's slippage, you're going to have to remove another little washer. If PTO doesn't stop when you pull on (cab) lever, re-adjust the (under tractor) lever. Why not use the cable adjustment nuts? Because you want to save them for another day. Thanks for your interest.

Well done that man.

You f**king hero.

 

[blaser]

If your tractor won't go into gear, that's one thing, but if you can select a gear but nothing happens try checking: S-L lever might be in neither S or L position- shift it fully to S or L; H-L (hare and tortoise) lever may not be in H or L position- ditto; Turbo Clutch is low on 10W hydraulic oil-drain and re-fill with exactly the correct volume of 10W hydraulic oil (not hydraulic fluid)
If it literally won't go into gear: cold oil; clutch wear/malfunction/ adjustment-probably will be grating/grinding noise; stick/rock/clod/tennis ball/ dead rat (in Australia it's often mud wasp's nest) obstructing movement of gear lever- put a bit of pointed stick about; scary internal defliction of gearbox shaft/gear/fork-consider life of crime/politics/selling valuable mother-in-law, in order to gather unto yourself a shirtload of Oxford Scholars to pay for gearbox repairs. Please note: I'm talking about earlier Farmers with manual, non-solenoid features here, although general principles remain the same.

Thanks bullgoose, the brake fluid reservoir was low, could the clutch need bleeding?

 

[currantvt]

Sorry, only in extreme circumstances would you stick a 'lodger' in the hole in journal pin. What the mongrel 'auto correct' didn't realise is that I meant a 'p-o-d-g-e-r'.

As a fellow old Fendt owner I was concerned at having to put my todger in the hole. Great write up.

 

[bullgoose]

Thanks bullgoose, the brake fluid reservoir was low, could the clutch need bleeding?

Yep. The brake and clutch share the fluid reservoir. It's pretty straightforward to bleed the clutch line. The line isn't not very long, but I've found you'll still need to do a fair bit of pedal pumping.