Farmerpickle
Member
Westlake wants £29.50 each for category 2 ends. I hate to think how much a category 1 end would cost.
Because every plough and implement I've got is category 1 and goes on the MF 35. The category 2 will only fit on the IH b275 as it has cat 1 and 2 on the arms.What sort of tractor has got cat one balls in anyway? Even our major has got cat 2 .
I dont understand why you want to muck about with the plough, as opposed to swapping balls on link arms.
Just plough with the into thenBecause every plough and implement I've got is category 1 and goes on the MF 35. The category 2 will only fit on the IH b275 as it has cat 1 and 2 on the arms.
Decisions decisions...tough being a boy.....
The new pins are less than 2 quid apeice. Get them bought. Bore the old ones out and get them welded in. Less than a fiver or pay £30 apiece. Not really hard sums is it now.
You can do each one individually in the lathe. Hold the pin and bore it from the back. Try and drill it for a press fit. Welding it at the back should suffice. Bore it far enough through and well into the cat 2 pin then trim it off.
Decisions decisions...tough being a boy.....
Molehills that do mountains make
Do you use the spring washers or do you not use them?I think you will find it is cast steel rather than cast iron which makes it a much better proposition. I have converted at least six shafts using the Sparex threaded version and a 3/4 hold on that deep nut is ample. Back it up with weld if you like but it is not necessary.
I could not remember until I looked. I have five TS59s al converted to cat 1. The pins on one plough are welded at the back. The other four all have nuts on the back with spring washers. If the hole is drilled the correct size for a snug fit the nut does very little and has no tendency to come loose. Locktite it if you like but I feel that you are worrying unduly.Do you use the spring washers or do you not use them?
I just ground original cat 2 ends down with angle grinder. Just ground 4 flats onto the pin and then kept taking the corners off until it is round. Then Used a cat 1 to 2 sleeve for a size guide and kept trying it until got a nice fit. Not precision engineering but the end result is fine.
Apologies for me worrying but a few years ago when I converted a category 2 to 1 I didn’t have the pin sitting flush and this resulted in the pin breaking. Had I drilled the end out a little more so the pin would have sat flush, this would have prevented immense strain being put on the thread which was the cause of the pin breaking.I could not remember until I looked. I have five TS59s al converted to cat 1. The pins on one plough are welded at the back. The other four all have nuts on the back with spring washers. If the hole is drilled the correct size for a snug fit the nut does very little and has no tendency to come loose. Locktite it if you like but I feel that you are worrying unduly.
Until you get a TS54 then you will need some busheswhy not just change the ball ends on the tractor and be done with it for years to come
I travel on a magic carpet." I didnt get where I am today by converting cat 2 linkage pins to cat 1 "
C.J.
Bushes are easier to deal with than the next implement with cat 2pinsUntil you get a TS54 then you will need some bushes
Or the next tractor that has cat 1 arms ? You can fit a cat1 implement on any tractor without welding.not vice versa.Bushes are easier to deal with than the next implement with cat 2pins
or just buy a proper tractor to start with, and have the best of both worldsOr the next tractor that has cat 1 arms ? You can fit a cat1 implement on any tractor without welding.not vice versa.
or just buy a proper tractor to start with, and have the best of both worlds
IHC B275