Fitting category 1 pins to a TS 59

[Farmerpickle]

Good evening all. I am interested to know if anybody has fitted these (below) on the end of the cross shaft? The reason why I am asking is I have found there isn't enough thread as the thread only goes 3/4 of the way through the nut. Is this enough? Has anybody has this experience? I'm doing this because the genuine category 1 cross shaft ends cost an arm and a leg.

 

[MrNoo]

I have a Ransomes in the shed that has those on, I didnt fit them mind but they look to do the job.

 

[wuddy]

Good evening all. I am interested to know if anybody has fitted these (below) on the end of the cross shaft? The reason why I am asking is I have found there isn't enough thread as the thread only goes 3/4 of the way through the nut. Is this enough? Has anybody has this experience? I'm doing this because the genuine category 1 cross shaft ends cost an arm and a leg.

Why not just weld them in?

 

[Bury the Trash]

Sparex Weld on ones are about 2 quid or so , just cut the stub off and the old one off the x shaft
and weld new one on.
Dissimilars?

Simples, Or have I missed something

 

[Tonym]

Be aware. The cat 1 cross shaft is shorter than the cat 2. If I remember right 28" cat 1, 32" cat 2. If you use the the cat 2 cross shaft although it will allow more side ways movement it will move the pull point on the tractor towards the rear and this will make it more difficult to go straight

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

take both ends off, put them back to back in the lathe, one pin in the lathe chuck, other pin center of tailstock, once happy there near enough,
a Good track weld both sides and weld together enough to hold them,
turn one side down to 1" or cat one,
remove from lathe turn it around, do other side the same,
once happy nick the weld through and tidy up with a grinder, job done

 

[massey765]

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take both ends off, put them back to back in the lathe, one pin in the lathe chuck, other pin center of tailstock, once happy there near enough,
a Good track weld both sides and weld together enough to hold them,
turn one side down to 1" or cat one,
remove from lathe turn it around, do other side the same,
once happy nick the weld through and tidy up with a grinder, job done

nay John.....just get bigger balls

 

[Farmerpickle]

Sparex Weld on ones are about 2 quid or so , just cut the stub off and the old one off the x shaft
and weld new one on.
Dissimilars?

Simples, Or have I missed something

Would you be able to post a picture of them. I am afraid I don't know which ones you mean.

 

[Farmerpickle]

Be aware. The cat 1 cross shaft is shorter than the cat 2. If I remember right 28" cat 1, 32" cat 2. If you use the the cat 2 cross shaft although it will allow more side ways movement it will move the pull point on the tractor towards the rear and this will make it more difficult to go straight

This is the first I've heard of this. Are you not getting confused with the TS 54 as this had category 1 and a smaller cross shaft on?

 

[Bury the Trash]

Would you be able to post a picture of them. I am afraid I don't know which ones you mean.

I wouldn't weld it actually, it's a cast piece .

Why not just take them down slimmer with an angle grinder?

If they are ever needed to go back to 2 they can be sleeved

Edit, but probably the best thing to do would be to cut out your cat 1 balls from your tractor link arms and refit cat 2 balls ( as he says above) then Bush those if you need cat 1 .
Or just tap out the pins and swap balls , it's not rocket science.

 

[Farmerpickle]

I wouldn't weld it actually, it's a cast piece .

Why not just take them down slimmer with an angle grinder?

If they are ever needed to go back to 2 they can be sleeved

Edit, but probably the best thing to do would be to cut out your cat 1 balls from your tractor link arms and refit cat 2 balls ( as he says above) then Bush those if you need cat 1 .
Or just tap out the pins and swap balls , it's not rocket science.

I don't particularly like welding cast and a think you're right. I will have to put my angle grind skills to the test.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

It's not cast iron, or it would slap on the 1st stone it hit,
It's cast steel, and will weld with a mig welder on the right settings and a good man on the hand piece

 

[arcobob]

I don't particularly like welding cast and a think you're right. I will have to put my angle grind skills to the test.

I think you will find it is cast steel rather than cast iron which makes it a much better proposition. I have converted at least six shafts using the Sparex threaded version and a 3/4 hold on that deep nut is ample. Back it up with weld if you like but it is not necessary.

 

[Bury the Trash]

I don't particularly like welding cast and a think you're right. I will have to put my angle grind skills to the test.

its not cast iron its cast steel which isnt as brittle,
if youre going to ....warm it up a bit in the oven then weld the pin

Would you be able to post a picture of them. I am afraid I don't know which ones you mean.

https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itemdetails/itemdetails.aspx?ItemNumber=505
on with a 312 dissimilar weld rod.

 

[Farmerpickle]

I think you will find it is cast steel rather than cast iron which makes it a much better proposition. I have converted at least six shafts using the Sparex threaded version and a 3/4 hold on that deep nut is ample. Back it up with weld if you like but it is not necessary.

Excellent, thank you! You have answered my question as I did have my suspicions that there was not going to be enough thread for the nut.

 

[tomlad]

My neighbour has symular prob , ive lent him my cat1 ends .... how expensive are cat 1 shaft ends , presumably mark will know there desirable.
Id debated chopping them off , boring out in lathe , hadn't thought of ur solution John ?
Will the pin and crank be one forgeing ?

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

My neighbour has symular prob , ive lent him my cat1 ends .... how expensive are cat 1 shaft ends , presumably mark will know there desirable.
Id debated chopping them off , boring out in lathe , hadn't thought of ur solution John ?
Will the pin and crank be one forgeing ?

Yes all one cast bit Tom

 

[arcobob]

Yes all one cast bit Tom

A cast iron pin would not survive the shocks and that is why the single piece is in workable and weldable cast steel.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

A cast iron pin would not survive the shocks and that is why the single piece is in workable and weldable cast steel.

I meant cast as in made in 1 bit, not cast iron, and it's steel anyway

 

[tomlad]

Cheers
So 1 option is bore out hole to fit the bolt on pin , or if propper clever thread it and screw in .