Ford tw crossshaft

[glasshouse]

Has anyone repaired on of these?

 

[spark plug]

What’s wrong with it? Bent, worn, snapped?

 

[glasshouse]

What’s wrong with it? Bent, worn, snapped?

Usual problem, worn and shoogly

 

[spark plug]

If it’s the splines worn there’s probably not a lot can be done, but if it’s worn ware the bushes sit there’s possibly a couple of options.

like metal spraying to build the shaft back up or turning the worn sections out and either haveing custom bushes made or if your lucky an off the shelf bush will be available with a slightly smaller internal diameter than standard.

 

[glasshouse]

If it’s the splines worn there’s probably not a lot can be done, but if it’s worn ware the bushes sit there’s possibly a couple of options.

like metal spraying to build the shaft back up or turning the worn sections out and either haveing custom bushes made or if your lucky an off the shelf bush will be available with a slightly smaller internal diameter than standard.

This is lower link cross shaft

 

[spark plug]

Oh, this contraption:

looks much more interesting.

 

[glasshouse]

Oh, this contraption:

looks much more interesting.

Can it be done from outside?

 

[spark plug]

it’s not something I’ve had anything to do with, I wish I could be of more help.

 

[milkloss]

Usual problem, worn and shoogly

We're on a roll....... word of the day: shoogly

 

[milkloss]

Got a bloke here with one that needs new seals. I gather the shaft below 20a won't slide out because of the draft control linkage (18) is attached. Top off job for that. On his the linkage 3 has been welded to the connecting shaft using stainless rods of some sort. Seems solid. Problem is that it was what probably has knackered the seals which now cant be fitted.

 

[glasshouse]

Got a bloke here with one that needs new seals. I gather the shaft below 20a won't slide out because of the draft control linkage (18) is attached. Top off job for that. On his the linkage 3 has been welded to the connecting shaft using stainless rods of some sort. Seems solid. Problem is that it was what probably has knackered the seals which now cant be fitted.

Its 3 that is loose on 2
Where the arm goes on

 

[milkloss]

Its 3 that is loose on 2
Where the arm goes on

I'll take a look tomorrow to remind myself if I get the chance.

 

[glasshouse]

I'll take a look tomorrow to remind myself if I get the chance.

 

[yellowbelly]

Its 3 that is loose on 2
Where the arm goes on

The splines wear - that's what makes it shoogly.

Back in the day, when we ran a few TW's, we used to fit a new short hanger (3) which reduced the shoogliness a bit.
By the time you'd worn the splines in the new bit back to the same shoogliness it was time to have the lift top off and replace the long hanger and the short one to make a proper job of it.

 

[glasshouse]

The splines wear - that's what makes it shoogly.

Back in the day, when we ran a few TW's, we used to fit a new short hanger (3) which reduced the shoogliness a bit.
By the time you'd worn the splines in the new bit back to the same shoogliness it was time to have the lift top off and replace the long hanger and the short one to make a proper job of it.

So you lift the top cover, and what then?

 

[yellowbelly]

So you lift the top cover, and what then?

The whole arrangement is what works the bottom link sensing.
The vertical rod in the diagram (24) works the valve that gives you your draft control.
That, and it's connecting gubbins, has to be disconnected to allow you to pull the long hanger out.

I expect the new parts might be quite pricey nowadays.

Depends what type of repair you want/need.

They can be welded up if you want a cheap and cheeful repair. Be careful if you go for this option - you want somebody with a hosepipe on the oil seals so you don't bu99er them up.

 

[glasshouse]

The whole arrangement is what works the bottom link sensing.
The vertical rod in the diagram (24) works the valve that gives you your draft control.
That, and it's connecting gubbins, has to be disconnected to allow you to pull the long hanger out.

I expect the new parts might be quite pricey nowadays.

Depends what type of repair you want/need.

They can be welded up if you want a cheap and cheeful repair. Be careful if you go for this option - you want somebody with a hosepipe on the oil seals so you don't bu99er them up.

You dont need to split it though?

 

[yellowbelly]

You dont need to split it though?

No.
If I remember correctly, you can get the lift cover off a TW without taking the cab off, too??

You can't on a 10 series but I seem to remember there's a bit more room between the cab and the lift top on a TW.

 

[milkloss]

Took some pics if they make sense. You can see the weld on one side and new parts on the other. I don’t really know the history.

 

[glasshouse]

Took some pics if they make sense. You can see the weld on one side and new parts on the other. I don’t really know the history.

Looks good
Welder maybe the answer