Front wheel hubs breaking

[Dave W]

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That's nothing to do with overloading or tracking or any of that.
I'll offer a theory. The rim isn't sitting on the hub right and it's not properly up to the stud flange. So as you tighten the wheel nuts it's flexing the flange and cracking it

 

[Chuckie]

I'd be looking carefully at how the wheels are mounted, are they the right wheels for the axle?

 

[ACEngineering]

Dealer has done all repairs so I assume genuine. Standard width. Haven't checked pressures, but not soft. No counter weight. Rear Wheel weights from new. Never been against a wall. No ruts.

Photo was taken days later but I did wonder.
How regularly would you check it? It only lasted 20 hours. But maybe that's the stock farmer attitude in me.

If its been happening alot then be doing a visual check very regular! certainly before any road trip! a quick clean if needs be, turn on full lock and look in for tell tale rust crack marks/lines.

 

[ACEngineering]

Are the stud holes threaded or do they push in from the back. Possibility of being fitted incorrectly / over torqued?
What does the dealer say?

Yes if pressing studs in then you could damage the casting if not done right, best pressed in with a bit of tube over the stud so your not flexing the cast but supporting it around the stud, or a but of tube and use the wheel nut to pull the stud though if no press.

 

[ACEngineering]

That's nothing to do with overloading or tracking or any of that.
I'll offer a theory. The rim isn't sitting on the hub right and it's not properly up to the stud flange. So as you tighten the bell nuts it's flexing the flange and cracking it

incorrect rim as dave says could also be an issue so is something else to check.

 

[jamie]

I'd be looking carefully at how the wheels are mounted, are they the right wheels for the axle?

I would hope so, they are what was on it when bought new.

 

[Lincsman]

I would hope so, they are what was on it when bought new.

Means nothing, dealer may have swapped wheels to get what customer ordered and used the wrong dishes.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

Driver abuse

 

[Bald n Grumpy]

Perhaps some pic's of the wheel on the other side may be helpful to see how its fitting and pulling up to the hub?

 

[Gadget]

I must say that, when this thread started, I wasn't expecting the break to be where it is. As has been said, Dave has put foreward a good suggestion.

 

[Pistonbroke]

We had a db1490 that snapped a couple of hubs where the bearing runs but the wheels were turned out. Never seen anything break like that,suggests something not spreading the load evenly

 

[Bury the Trash]

Wheels weights arent going to help in weight transfer
A counter weight needs to be on the back over the axle
wheel weights will add traction to the back wheels but dont lift ie 'counter' or take weight off the front axle and wheels .

Tractors actually aren't designed for handling and the least that can be done is to carry a proper counterweight

 

[Andrew]

If several new castings have failed, including one after 20 hrs when the loader hasn’t carried any weight then I don’t think counterweights are the issue and it would take a very rough driver to do it.

Far more likely is too many uggaduggas putting the rim back on.
Possibly the first failure slightly twisted the wheel dish so it’s pulling unevenly on the casting.

 

[Lincsman]

If several new castings have failed, including one after 20 hrs when the loader hasn’t carried any weight then I don’t think counterweights are the issue and it would take a very rough driver to do it.

Far more likely is too many uggaduggas putting the rim back on.
Possibly the first failure slightly twisted the wheel dish so it’s pulling unevenly on the casting.

But its done it on both sides?

 

[Pistonbroke]

I would hope so, they are what was on it when bought new.

What tractor is it?

 

[Courier]

Has it always been the same actual fitter who has undertaken the repairs and has he treated himself to an impact gun with a ridiculous amount of torque ?
Doubtful but ……

 

[Nearly]

Driver abuse

I'm expecting that to start shortly.

 

[Nearly]

That's nothing to do with overloading or tracking or any of that.
I'll offer a theory. The rim isn't sitting on the hub right and it's not properly up to the stud flange. So as you tighten the bell nuts it's flexing the flange and cracking it

There's no mark where the wheel centre has been running on the hub up against the hub.
I vote Dave.

Measure the torque needed to remove the wheel studs at the other side. Do it carefully. This is the basis of eveidence for a claim against the dealer that did the job?
Can you slide a piece of paper or a feeler gauge between the wheel and the hub at the other side?
Get someone else to take pics while you do it. With their camera!

 

[Courier]

The use of rear wheel weights and a front end loader only serves to put maximum stress on front axle components.

 

[Andrew]

But its done it on both sides?

The original failure may well have been due to overloading or driver abuse. But the replacements can’t be in that time interval.

After all, driving around with a bare loader is no different to a weight / toolbox hanging on the front linkage and you wouldn’t expect that to cause a failure.