Guides on shed erection/setting out

[RWG Contracts]

i think the suggestion of getting someone to set the bases is good if your not confident.

if you do it yourself set your profiles (and therefore string lines) as reasonably low as possible. ie if they are 2" above bolt boxes you can eye them in if they are 1ft you have to use spirit level (plumb bob) to get correct position and its just another hassle also laser level them in the wet concrete to get correct height <and then when set and bolt box removed put 1 "shim" on the highest level and then shim all the rest up to this level
last kit we put up came with 20kg of scrap for this job! cheeky buggers we probably only used about 10 pieces most of them being 3mm (the thinnest they sent!) I have seen large washers used for this job 6mm thick? just place 1 centrally between the bolts but we like to work more accurate than 6mm

Should use more than 6mm really to let the grout run in.

On an industrial shed the spec is 25mm of shims for grout

 

[dannewhouse]

Should use more than 6mm really to let the grout run in.

On an industrial shed the spec is 25mm of shims for grout

how many actually grout agricultural ones in though?
I know of older buildings sat on bricks to get to level and the concrete poured after
we just allow the concrete floor to fill in where the grout should be (I would think it would be 99% as efficient as grout)
as said before the "holding down bolts" and base plate are to stop the building lifting more than to spread weight onto foundation.

 

[RWG Contracts]

how many actually grout agricultural ones in though?
I know of older buildings sat on bricks to get to level and the concrete poured after
we just allow the concrete floor to fill in where the grout should be (I would think it would be 99% as efficient as grout)
as said before the "holding down bolts" and base plate are to stop the building lifting more than to spread weight onto foundation.

We usually grout them in depending what it's for. Can take you to a grain store where the farmer didn't bother grouting it, they poured the base and he filled it will grain when they emptied the store there was and still is a 25/30mm gap right along the panels where the legs have pushed out.

Granted there was a few other things missing as well as grout but grout would have helped

 

[David.]

Without grout there is nothing to stop the shed walking across the base to the limit of the cones, at least until floor is poured.

 

[stugordon321]

If you go ahead with your shed post some photos please as I have one to build soon.
As mentioned already measure corner to opposite corner then again with other corner to get a true square. If you need to find a 90degree right angle measure 3,4 &5 in what ever incraments you prefer working with. Good luck & don't forget the photos please

 

[milkloss]

Rather than place holding down bolts into wet concrete in 12 holes in a hurry, we do another way.
Dig holes. Knock a wooden post into the bottom of the hole. Set laser measuring stick on top of post and knock it down to required level. This is level of finished foundation concrete.
Now set strings up And screw plate with holding bolts to top of wooden post. Jiggle it around with a plumb line. Pour concrete gently around this plate until it comes up to plate. Job done. No faffing with strings and bolts in wet concrete

Good idea. Is there a problem with this method anyone?

 

[RWG Contracts]

Good idea. Is there a problem with this method anyone?

I don't normally have time to do it. We go to site, mark out, dig holes, build bolt boxes, fill holes with concrete and set bolts in same day so it's a bit rushed. If I have time I occasionally hang the bolts before concrete comes but I've only ever done it once, and then after concrete was in I checked them all anyway so thought I may as well use the plumb bob method like I usually do

 

[dannewhouse]

Without grout there is nothing to stop the shed walking across the base to the limit of the cones, at least until floor is poured.

ye our "defence" is the bit of "fat" from pouring the concrete floor will fill 90% where the grout goes as said ours are only livestock or machinery sheds any way.
I would have thought hanging the bolt boxes would make it hard to pour concrete around them and pretty easy to nock them. I also like to give the bolt boxes a good bit of waggle just makes me feel like they will have filled better with conc between bolts. also if you knock the "bridge" and don't realise or check your a bit screwed

how many old buildings are barely held down? I'm sure some are sat on bricks to level them up then a farmers 4" of concrete floor poured over it all <these also happen to be the buildings where the asbestos roof is 2 corrugations out of square!!! and were put up with a 135!

 

[Forever Fendt]

We usually grout them in depending what it's for. Can take you to a grain store where the farmer didn't bother grouting it, they poured the base and he filled it will grain when they emptied the store there was and still is a 25/30mm gap right along the panels where the legs have pushed out.

Granted there was a few other things missing as well as grout but grout would have helped

big grain stores and silage pit benefit from a keyed base

 

[joe soapy]

Have put up a few here over the years, Dont even think about bolting it down, order postd 2ft6in
longer than needed. dig pits, concrete bottoms all to the same level.
Assemble frames , a 30ft frame can be lifted/pulled up into position, have plenty of rope and anchors to hold it in place, just put a few purlins up to keep frame stable untill all frames in place.
once frame stood up, adjust for square and level and then pour concrete.
For roof, box profile one sheet per side, they can come in whatever lenth needed

 

[S J H]

big grain stores and silage pit benefit from a keyed base

What's a keyed base @Forever Fendt ?

 

[Forever Fendt]

What's a keyed base @Forever Fendt ?

The template that holds the bolts and tubes that is pressed in the wet concrete has a former on the underside to leave a socket in the base when the template is removed ,the baseplate on the stansion has a lump of steel welded underneath to sit in the pocket (not a tight Fit) so when its grouted there is no thrust on the bolts,alternatively thrust bars in the floor slab can be used thrust bars will be adequate to 4.5m fill after that i would look at other methods

 

[Forever Fendt]

Have put up a few here over the years, Dont even think about bolting it down, order postd 2ft6in
longer than needed. dig pits, concrete bottoms all to the same level.
Assemble frames , a 30ft frame can be lifted/pulled up into position, have plenty of rope and anchors to hold it in place, just put a few purlins up to keep frame stable untill all frames in place.
once frame stood up, adjust for square and level and then pour concrete.
For roof, box profile one sheet per side, they can come in whatever lenth needed

pocket bases like you suggest are ok in summer but can be nightmare in winter with holes filling up with water and collapsing ,with the holding down bolts you can dig and pour on the same day and its quicker and safer erecting the steel

 

[David.]

Doubt that there is an "official" safe method of concreting stanchions in the holes now.
The move to 4 bolt holding down pattern was so that uprights are free standing and safe, I believe.

 

[Forever Fendt]

Doubt that there is an "official" safe method of concreting stanchions in the holes now.
The move to 4 bolt holding down pattern was so that uprights are free standing and safe, I believe.

 

[joe soapy]

pocket bases like you suggest are ok in summer but can be nightmare in winter with holes filling up with water and collapsing ,with the holding down bolts you can dig and pour on the same day and its quicker and safer erecting the steel

I understand the benefits but, it takes a fair degree of skill and absolute precision to lay out
a shed base in 3D

 

[dannewhouse]

I understand the benefits but, it takes a fair degree of skill and absolute precision to lay out
a shed base in 3D

you could always rag bolt the stations down and use your method?

set your profiles up as level as possible and measure level its easier with your profiles lower to the floor and obviously easier if the site is nearer level.
if its a bad site split it into a few sections ie a 100ft shed split into 2 or 3 to keep the profiles roughly level and on the "change" you basically have 2 levels higher and lower as long as they are smack on top of each other it will be fine.

you can use a total station for marking out in 3d but they aren't as accurate as people think or as accurate as a tape and they take a while as you should set up over every corner and scan the 90deg angle to check they are all bang on then when plotting every 15ft bay because you are sighting a diagonal measurement + the angle there is room for error ie if you sight from say rh front corner then from lh front corner they will vary a bit but shouldn't with an accurate man and tape.

 

[joe soapy]

you could always rag bolt the stations down and use your method?

set your profiles up as level as possible and measure level its easier with your profiles lower to the floor and obviously easier if the site is nearer level.
if its a bad site split it into a few sections ie a 100ft shed split into 2 or 3 to keep the profiles roughly level and on the "change" you basically have 2 levels higher and lower as long as they are smack on top of each other it will be fine.

you can use a total station for marking out in 3d but they aren't as accurate as people think or as accurate as a tape and they take a while as you should set up over every corner and scan the 90deg angle to check they are all bang on then when plotting every 15ft bay because you are sighting a diagonal measurement + the angle there is room for error ie if you sight from say rh front corner then from lh front corner they will vary a bit but shouldn't with an accurate man and tape.

You have lost me. I have found it sometimes it is difficult to keep a 3ft square hole in the right place to accept a stanchion .
Worst shed marking out, we got a long tape marked meteres one side and ft & ins tother side.
after a few hours of total war with staff, it was discovered that the tape started at 0 on the ft side,
but 0+200 mm on the metric side.

 

[Forever Fendt]

I understand the benefits but, it takes a fair degree of skill and absolute precision to lay out
a shed base in 3D

Its not difficult at all with the correct guidance and a 50 meter steel tape

 

[Forever Fendt]

you could always rag bolt the stations down and use your method?

set your profiles up as level as possible and measure level its easier with your profiles lower to the floor and obviously easier if the site is nearer level.
if its a bad site split it into a few sections ie a 100ft shed split into 2 or 3 to keep the profiles roughly level and on the "change" you basically have 2 levels higher and lower as long as they are smack on top of each other it will be fine.

you can use a total station for marking out in 3d but they aren't as accurate as people think or as accurate as a tape and they take a while as you should set up over every corner and scan the 90deg angle to check they are all bang on then when plotting every 15ft bay because you are sighting a diagonal measurement + the angle there is room for error ie if you sight from say rh front corner then from lh front corner they will vary a bit but shouldn't with an accurate man and tape.

you have over complicated a straight forward job