High tensile electric fence

Will7

Member
I am having a go again at stock farming after a 15 yr absence so a couple of questions?

What is the maximum recommended run length between ratchet tensioners? The field is 850m long. Do I need to split it into 2 lengths or would one be ok?
What is the best method for attaching poly wire to the ht for regular moving using the non reel end? And it doesn’t want to slip.

Thanks
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
I am having a go again at stock farming after a 15 yr absence so a couple of questions?

What is the maximum recommended run length between ratchet tensioners? The field is 850m long. Do I need to split it into 2 lengths or would one be ok?
What is the best method for attaching poly wire to the ht for regular moving using the non reel end? And it doesn’t want to slip.

Thanks
yes mister baseman ....:sneaky:
easier to use gripples instead of them.
got a spinning jenny?
yes split into 2 would be better or 3 even as the strain will be taken by an insulator remember, can get porcelain ones tho.
 

McFarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
One is plenty, the wire doesn’t have to be tight as a fiddle. If it’s hot it doesn’t have to be tight, if it isn’t hot it can’t be tight enough.

I used one on probably a half mile run.
 

Kiwi Pete

Member
Livestock Farmer
I am having a go again at stock farming after a 15 yr absence so a couple of questions?

What is the maximum recommended run length between ratchet tensioners? The field is 850m long. Do I need to split it into 2 lengths or would one be ok?
What is the best method for attaching poly wire to the ht for regular moving using the non reel end? And it doesn’t want to slip.

Thanks
Will be fine with one per run, if you put the strainer right in the middle of the "pull" (it's a handy way to mark halfway along your fenceline as well).
Don't put them at the end like most kiwi dairy farmers do :banhappy:

For electric fences: leave the wire tail on the static part of the strainer at least 12 inches long, and after straining up wrap it over the assembly to help carry the current, they tend to tick under load otherwise and it's still better than a gripple- or crimped-up fence when the wire gets a stretch.
 

Will7

Member
yes mister baseman ....:sneaky:
easier to use gripples instead of them.
got a spinning jenny?
yes split into 2 would be better or 3 even as the strain will be taken by an insulator remember, can get porcelain ones tho.
I have a spinning Jenny. I have the ratchet tensioners so will use them this time
Thanks
 

Will7

Member
Will be fine with one per run, if you put the strainer right in the middle of the "pull" (it's a handy way to mark halfway along your fenceline as well).
Don't put them at the end like most kiwi dairy farmers do :banhappy:

For electric fences: leave the wire tail on the static part of the strainer at least 12 inches long, and after straining up wrap it over the assembly to help carry the current, they tend to tick under load otherwise and it's still better than a gripple- or crimped-up fence when the wire gets a stretch.
Bugger, I am an ex dairy farmer and have done that so far on the shorter runs. The tensioners I have come with an integrated insulator so look designed to go at the end? I see you can get others to go halfway down the line.

Learning all the time...

Thanks
 

pear

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
Hertfordshire
Depends how straight your run is. I use a ratchet each end if it’s got a few turns in or going round corners- in the grand scheme of things they are not that expensive.

if you’ve got 100kg cattle, watch your wire spacings- I use 2 strands but will run a 3rd line on a couple of runs as I had a couple of smaller calves go walkabout. Admittedly the fence line was up and down and I think they found a slight high point. Decent energiser and it’s a cheap fence.
 

Will7

Member
Depends how straight your run is. I use a ratchet each end if it’s got a few turns in or going round corners- in the grand scheme of things they are not that expensive.

if you’ve got 100kg cattle, watch your wire spacings- I use 2 strands but will run a 3rd line on a couple of runs as I had a couple of smaller calves go walkabout. Admittedly the fence line was up and down and I think they found a slight high point. Decent energiser and it’s a cheap fence.
There is a 15 degree bend halfway along it. The ratchet at each end sounds like a good idea.

The land is completely flat and they are now 250kg. They were fine at 100kg but I will keep an eye on it

Many Thanks
 

pear

Member
BASE UK Member
Location
Hertfordshire
Mine have always been fine on 2 (cows and calves) but just had one incident.

I wasn’t sure how to read it, when you said perimeter fence? Fence up to another field or fence up to the hard shoulder of the A1??
 

Will7

Member
Mine have always been fine on 2 (cows and calves) but just had one incident.

I wasn’t sure how to read it, when you said perimeter fence? Fence up to another field or fence up to the hard shoulder of the A1??
There is no real livestock infrastructure in the area so this fence is the only fence between them and complete freedom.... This approach has been fine on some outlying land with polywire against a B road all summer so the HT should be better again....The main farm is in an isolated single block surrounded by large drains which would provide some temporary protection against escapees!
 

Scholsey

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Herefordshire
Got miles of the stuff wouldn’t use netting or barbed wire ever again, but then only have dairy cows here. Powdered pasture are top notch and great advice.
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exmoor dave

Member
Location
exmoor, uk
This is the equipment I am using for the temporary fencing. I use those on the “dead” end to hang the spool off, what do I use on the hot end?


In the past I've used little lengths of cable with crocodile clips to join temporary wire to the boundary hot line, but found you get a few shocks of the clips when its wet.

Found a easier and cheaper method is to cut a foot of 1.6m insulated cable, strip a couple inches off the insulation off each end and bend into quite tight hooks,
Clip on both the poly and the HT, no shocks in the wet!
 

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