Jcb 536 60

[fastfish]

3rd spool only working intermitently works attachment lock or pick up hitch prob electrical anybody any ideas tia

 

[Nearly]

@eulb ?

 

[del_boy]

Sometimes the selanoids for the change over stick, think they are behind the cab by the side of the rear boom pivot

 

[fastfish]

It does the same front or back so I think the change over is working

 

[del_boy]

If its doing the same in whatever position the diverter switch is it sounds like the button on the joystick is faulty or the selanoid itself is sticking. The earlier manitous were also prone to this and a new selanoid isnt cheap.

 

[del_boy]

@ACEngineering might have some idea

 

[Blue.]

Seem to remember @Shovelhands posted about a similar problem someone had.

My loaders are old school,no electrics only to start and move.

 

[ACEngineering]

If its doing the same in whatever position the diverter switch is it sounds like the button on the joystick is faulty or the selanoid itself is sticking. The earlier manitous were also prone to this and a new selanoid isnt cheap.

JCB solenoids are nothing like the Manitou ones despite Manitou using a similar joystick for many years.

All I could add is the rollers on the stick are very reliable. I only had 1 fail and it burnt its self out fro some odd reason.
The roller has some sort of magnet on it that passes over a tiny black sealed thing soldered in to a tiny PCB board it makes no direct contact with it at all nothing like a normal switch.

I would start by looking at the wiring at the base of the stick were it all moves and work from there.

Bare in mind the solenoids are likely to work on small voltages, Manitous working range is 0.5 volts up to 5 volts and they do not like having 12 volts shoved up them!

 

[Shovelhands]

Seem to remember @Shovelhands posted about a similar problem someone had.

My loaders are old school,no electrics only to start and move.

I don’t recall doing so, but I’ve probably just forgotten....

Sounds like it could possibly be the roller switch on the stick? It’s a proportional service, so it will be a potentiometer rather than a switch.....and I bet you can’t buy it separately you need to be sure, before throwing parts at it, whatever it is. You could try swapping the two rollers over, so it’s using the boom in and out switch/potentiometer. Not sure how easy that would be, but it could prove the fault either way?
You may also find component numbers on the potentiometers, if it is that at fault, and you may be able to buy them from someone like RS components? I’ve done this before with other control sticks, but not that particular one, so I’m really not sure if it’s at all possible.

Have you had a good look at the wiring harness? Check for chafing, broken wires? That’s got to be the cheapest and easiest check

Edit, Ace beat me to it with a bit more knowledge, so most of what I’ve said is useless

 

[ACEngineering]

I don’t recall doing so, but I’ve probably just forgotten....

Sounds like it could possibly be the roller switch on the stick? It’s a proportional service, so it will be a potentiometer rather than a switch.....and I bet you can’t buy it separately you need to be sure, before throwing parts at it, whatever it is. You could try swapping the two rollers over, so it’s using the boom in and out switch/potentiometer. Not sure how easy that would be, but it could prove the fault either way?
You may also find component numbers on the potentiometers, if it is that at fault, and you may be able to buy them from someone like RS components? I’ve done this before with other control sticks, but not that particular one, so I’m really not sure if it’s at all possible.

Have you had a good look at the wiring harness? Check for chafing, broken wires? That’s got to be the cheapest and easiest check

No one sells the fancy roller switch thing been there before when one burnt out, joystick manufacture does not sell any parts for it not even rubber button covers. I trawled places like RS too but got no were, ended up buying a new stick.

IMO its unlikely to be the roller switch tis a common design of stick used for many years by several manufactures with out any major issues with the rollers. Swapping the wiring on the solenoid plug end will be a lot easier than trying to swap the rollers as they are all soldered in, plus they are held in by some fancy tamper proof screws from memory? I managed to get some thing out of a cheapo assortment bit box I had in the van that had loads of odd looking bits in, although none were quite right one of them did the job. think it was some sort of triangle type thing?

 

[goldeneagle]

The cab mounts were shot on our 06 536-60 and caused the frame to chaff a wire that went to the third service. Lift boom and remove the inspection plate from side of cab and you should see two yellow wires that would come from the joystick in cab. We replaced the cab mounts and then soldered wire back together. Was not a nice job to do with every thing in situ as there are a lot of other wires from the loom in close proximity.

 

[fastfish]

Thanks the search starts to day

 

[fastfish]

Wire had chaffed below joystick thanks

 

[Shovelhands]

Wire had chaffed below joystick thanks

Great news, sounds like it was a relatively cheap and easy fix?....even if it was a bit of a pain to find the fault.

 

[fastfish]

Great news, sounds like it was a relatively cheap and easy fix?....even if it was a bit of a pain to find the fault.

Yep thanks for your help. Jut kept the button on and wriggled various wires and found it pretty quickly thanks again ff

 

[fastfish]

Yep thanks for your help. Jut kept the button on and wriggled various wires and found it pretty quickly thanks again ff

Forgot to say had the spread a bale on so could see when the rotors were working