Think I can see the bit to squeeze. Squeezing by hand but not shifting. Maybe I need mole grips, long nose pliers..?Normally just squeeze in part of the clip and it releases.
Another thing I often do is install a piece of transparent pipe, between the lift pump and high pressure pump, with hose clips. You can then check if the fuel system is sucking any air. After the lift pump it should be low pressure. Before the lift pump it’s on the suction side of the fuel system.
Yep, it's the connector(s) on the top of the fuel tank. I want to get the fuel tank out...I you sure it is fuel and not a hydraulic service dead ending?
Fair enough, I had to shift but not entirely remove the fuel tank on my 8018 to replace engine mounts. I would guess it might be worth changing them, or the relevant one at that point.Yep, it's the connector(s) on the top of the fuel tank. I want to get the fuel tank out...
I always use a pressure washer to clean fuel tanks out. Then dry out with a big road compressor. If you cut back or burn away some of the plastic surrounding the spade connectors, you can possibly solder onto the remaining metal. Worth a try anyway.Really appreciate everyone's help. Sorry, a couple more things:
OK, latest: I got the fuel tank out. Actually turned out to be quite easy to take the fuel lines off - I was just being a schmuck! Quite a bit of sludge in the bottom and the tank filter is gunked up to about 1/3. So firstly, any advice on best way to clean the tank out?
Secondly, the previous owner mullered the top of the fuel sender. Severed the cables (see pic). Why? Anyway, this is a good chance to replace it. The rest of the sender (tank side) should work (I've measured resistance) and the display in the cab works. I could try to solder the cables to the tiny stubs left on the end - might work. But anyone know if it's possible to buy just the top part of the sender on its own. (ie. the white plate with the fuel nozzles on and sender connector?
Thanks
Very good advice here!Loss of power and smoking , check the hammer pedal is not stuck open .
Tends to get stood on getting in and out of the cab . Doesn’t get used much and sticks and won’t return to neutral.
Causes pump to send oil to a dead end and loads up the hydraulic system and drags the engine down .
Thanks. Yes, I'll give the soldering a go. Question is which way round the cables go - but maybe it doesn't matter.... Will dry the tank fully.....Rodents love to sit in places like that and have a chew. Mice did it to one of my tractors. Fortunately they kindly left me just enough to solder onto Heatshrink and some plastic conduit to prevent a repeat. I expect you will buy it complete. Steam cleaner works well to clean the tank. Just make sure it’s fully drained and dry before refitting.
Very good advice here!
Thanks! I'll definitely check out the hammer pedal isn't stuck - good thought!Loss of power and smoking , check the hammer pedal is not stuck open .
Tends to get stood on getting in and out of the cab . Doesn’t get used much and sticks and won’t return to neutral.
Causes pump to send oil to a dead end and loads up the hydraulic system and drags the engine down .