John Deere 8360R coolant pressure - part 2

[SteveO]

Some of you helped me to check EGR cooler and I have welded exaust intake part and mounted blank plate near the EGR valve.
It was ok for few days light work but now I have again coolant leak on the cap when coolant temperature reaches 95-96°C.

After it leaks a bit then the temperature drops to 86°C. Wth can be the
problem ?
Also I get ECU 111.18 and sometimes ECU 111.17 code but that is low coolant. I will fill to max, it thows some out and then sensor says there is not enough coolant.
I have updated damn ECU from SW60597T when it worked all ok to W letter and then I made EGR and DPF delete.

I got some info that older software maybe did not have that coolant switch activation from ECU. It says something like ECU says coolant is low as soon as temp reaches 95°C, that is retarded. I want to disable that if possible.

We are out of fing ideas

 

[lexion780tt]

Has it got a visatronic fan on it? If it has disconnect it will lock up fan get full air flow then.

Pressure test the coolant system if its putting water out at 95 its boiling off too quick should put any out till at least 105 110 if system it pressurised properly should say on rad cap what bar it should be. Might have a crack In a plastic housing

 

[SteveO]

It has JD VariCool it is vario system with belt.
Temperature is not the problem, they work up to 105°C but the pressure.
Complete coolant is from John Deere and it should work on those temps with no issues.

Cap is marked 1 Bar pressure.

 

[lexion780tt]

Have you sniffed it with c02 tester? After all you have done to it it sounding like a crack in a liner? Did you chech liner protusion when you fitted head gasket and the lip of the liner where gasket sits wasnt eroded?

 

[SteveO]

No I dont have it. I think mechanic checked it. It got engine overhaul 3 years ago so I think thry have also checked it while mounting.

 

[Timbo]

As above sniff the header tank or use one of the test kits for combustion gasses.

Either your welded egr cooler isnt 100% welded, or you have the beginnings of a HG leak..

 

[SteveO]

I must buy that damn thing then. Is the one from Ebay good or it needs to be profi ?

In P on 60°C coolant on 1800 rpm I get 0,3 Bar reading.

HG is newly made 20 hours ago, new bolts etc.
Maybe I did not weld it good enough. If that is the case I will eat the cooler after I weld it.

 

[Timbo]

I must buy that damn thing then. Is the one from Ebay good or it needs to be profi ?

In P on 60°C coolant on 1800 rpm I get 0,3 Bar reading.

HG is newly made 20 hours ago, new bolts etc.
Maybe I did not weld it good enough. If that is the case I will eat the cooler after I weld it.

Seems to be that you're only getting coolant pressure when she's either making exhaust , intake or cylinder pressure i.e. under significant load.

 

[SteveO]

Yes that is the exact case ! But where it can get it ?

 

[Timbo]

Yes that is the exact case ! But where it can get it ?

Did you skim the head and pressure test it when you did the hg ??

 

[SteveO]

Yes, all ok. Pressure test I havent done, it is done here only when suspicious.

Compression is ok, it should be bad if head or gasket are bad ?

 

[Timbo]

Yes, all ok. Pressure test I havent done, it is done here only when suspicious.

Compression is ok, it should be bad if head or gasket are bad ?

Firstly, remove the bloody egr cooler from the tractor and bypass the coolant lines. Then test tractor. If you still have coolant pressurisation the head is cracked or the hg not 100%.

 

[mf7480]

If I were you i'd start by putting it all back to OEM spec

 

[SteveO]

Even that is an option and then to try But I want to remove it then again. But to get to the problem I am willing to put it back in original state.
I will completely remove EGR cooler and then I can X that part as a cause. Then I will block coolant after EGR valve on that Venturi valve or how it is called. It is also connected with cooling lines and turbo pressure.