John Deere sensors

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Can someone tell me what the top sensor in the in the photo controls on a 6220se? When I waggle the wires to it, it appears induce very rough running.

DSC04339.JPG

DSC04340.JPG
 

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Temp sensor? Pull back sheet and see if wires are shorting.

Couldn't seen anything untoward in the back of the plug. But the insulation has a tiny crack/cut where it goes into the back of the sheet on both wires. Which I guess, could possibly allow a current to track between the wires on a build-up of dust. :scratchhead:
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Couldn't seen anything untoward in the back of the plug. But the insulation has a tiny crack/cut where it goes into the back of the sheet on both wires. Which I guess, could possibly allow a current to track between the wires on a build-up of dust. :scratchhead:
They’re both temp sensors, one works the gauge in the dash and the other supply’s information to the ecu. Chances are it’s just a bad contact on the pins.
 

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Still having problems with this to the point that the tractor now won't start. I have checked the continuity from all the sensors back to the ECU and replaced the crankshaft sensor. However on one of the wires from top temp sensor I can only find continuity back to the ECU on one of the pair of wires is it feasible that this is stopping the tractor from starting. Fuel is getting to the Stanadyne DE10 injection pump but not to the injectors.
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Still having problems with this to the point that the tractor now won't start. I have checked the continuity from all the sensors back to the ECU and replaced the crankshaft sensor. However on one of the wires from top temp sensor I can only find continuity back to the ECU on one of the pair of wires is it feasible that this is stopping the tractor from starting. Fuel is getting to the Stanadyne DE10 injection pump but not to the injectors.
I would expect the ecu to substitute a fixed temp value of near-fully warmed up in the event of open or short circuit on the coolant temp sensor, so the engine would start and run normally once hot.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Have you checked for continuity across the pins on the pump solenoid, the one on the end of the pump between the injector pipes. If the solenoid has failed it will never start and unfortunately it’s a job for a pump shop if it needs replacing.
 

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Have you checked for continuity across the pins on the pump solenoid, the one on the end of the pump between the injector pipes. If the solenoid has failed it will never start and unfortunately it’s a job for a pump shop if it needs replacing.
There is continuity across the pump pins but only a voltage of around 1.9- 2.3 volts when you crank the engine over. There is continuity on the pump wires back to the ECU.
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Have you checked for continuity across the pins on the pump solenoid, the one on the end of the pump between the injector pipes. If the solenoid has failed it will never start and unfortunately it’s a job for a pump shop if it needs replacing.

This is a de10 system not regular mech pump
Voltage sounds a bit low but I can’t for the life of me remember what it should be sorry.


Its pwm i believe
 

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Yes I know, but I seem to think it should be a nominal 8v but it’s years since I’ve tested one!
I have seen 8v quoted about this pump in other folks comments, but the sensors feeding the ECU look to be mostly 5v. Unfortunately the Stanadyne or JD engine manual online makes no mention of the voltage required either for the ECU or the pump. :scratchhead:
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
I have seen 8v quoted about this pump in other folks comments, but the sensors feeding the ECU look to be mostly 5v. Unfortunately the Stanadyne or JD engine manual online makes no mention of the voltage required either for the ECU or the pump. :scratchhead:
Ecu should have a good 12v, the sensors are 5v supply, as @Timbo says the pump is pulse width. Are you testing the pump supply across the wires or to ground? I seem to think you should have voltage on both wires, the difference may just be 1.9-2.3 if your testing across.
 

Muck Spreader

Member
Livestock Farmer
Location
Limousin
Ecu should have a good 12v, the sensors are 5v supply, as @Timbo says the pump is pulse width. Are you testing the pump supply across the wires or to ground? I seem to think you should have voltage on both wires, the difference may just be 1.9-2.3 if your testing across.
Yes, I was testing across the wires. Wasn't sure if it was a good idea to use ground with ECU's
 

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