Manitou 627 transmission oil leak

[johnflimston]

Found a pool of transmission oil under the Manitou today when parked with engine running.
Taken covers off each side and underneath, very oily all around bottom of transmission, looks to be coming from seal where prop shaft comes out.
Is that the most likely cause of a leak, cant see anything leaking now but thought that may be because oil is now below level of seal.
Can the seal be changed with engine and transmission in situ?

 

[e3120]

Just had a very similar issue on our 635. On odd occasions we'd find a cupful of ATF on the floor. Coming from prop seal. Turns out there is a spacer between the UJ yoke and the seal, which a bolt on the end of the shaft holds tight. I should say, there should be a spacer...

 

[ACEngineering]

Found a pool of transmission oil under the Manitou today when parked with engine running.
Taken covers off each side and underneath, very oily all around bottom of transmission, looks to be coming from seal where prop shaft comes out.
Is that the most likely cause of a leak, cant see anything leaking now but thought that may be because oil is now below level of seal.
Can the seal be changed with engine and transmission in situ?

Most common place to leak is trans pressure switch. On yours it's near the top on left side closest to cab towards the front of box near were gearstick turret is.

 

[johnflimston]

Most common place to leak is trans pressure switch. On yours it's near the top on left side closest to cab towards the front of box near were gearstick turret is.

Thanks.
I'll check it out, if it's that I presume it needs a new switch.
A lot of oil that's why I thought prop seal.

 

[johnflimston]

Most common place to leak is trans pressure switch. On yours it's near the top on left side closest to cab towards the front of box near were gearstick turret is.

Thanks I'll have a look.

 

[ACEngineering]

Thanks.
I'll check it out, if it's that I presume it needs a new switch.
A lot of oil that's why I thought prop seal.

yes new switch, roughly £70ish i think?

 

[ACEngineering]

Thanks I'll have a look.

Ah just a thought if it's a mla 627 pivot steer then different transmission.
Common for temp sender to leak on top.
Front and rear prop seals.
To do front you got to take rear out first.

 

[johnflimston]

Ah just a thought if it's a mla 627 pivot steer then different transmission.
Common for temp sender to leak on top.
Front and rear prop seals.
To do front you got to take rear out first.

As usual you were correct, it was the trans pressure switch. Would have ordered part from you but cattle were getting hungry and local dealer had one on shelf.
Another issue, the engine coolant warning light is flashing intermittently, gauge shows normal and shes not running hot, I presume there is a separate sender. Where is it and how much.
Thanks.

 

[ACEngineering]

As usual you were correct, it was the trans pressure switch. Would have ordered part from you but cattle were getting hungry and local dealer had one on shelf.
Another issue, the engine coolant warning light is flashing intermittently, gauge shows normal and shes not running hot, I presume there is a separate sender. Where is it and how much.
Thanks.

Is it a MLA or MLT? MLT does not have coolant warning light only a gauge. MLA has warning light and no gauge.

 

[johnflimston]

Is it a MLA or MLT? MLT does not have coolant warning light only a gauge. MLA has warning light and no gauge.

It's a MLT, definitely has a gauge.
2nd warning light from the right is on and buzzer, looking in the book that light is "RED I.C. ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE WARNING INDICATOR" The icons are very difficult to see but its definitely 2nd from right.
Any ideas.
Thanks.

 

[ACEngineering]

It's a MLT, definitely has a gauge.
2nd warning light from the right is on and buzzer, looking in the book that light is "RED I.C. ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE WARNING INDICATOR" The icons are very difficult to see but its definitely 2nd from right.
Any ideas.
Thanks.

That's a miss print in book I think? Will look at a dash. What year is it?
Dash in middle or offset to the right of cab?

 

[DrWazzock]

After replacing that switch three times at £70 a go i sawed the top off the last switch, welded it over and screwed it back in as a plug.
What purpose does it serve other than cause annoyance and generate spare parts revenue for manitou? As long as you change the ATF oil and filter and check the level, how does the switch add anything? Ours always used to light up in reverse then a new driver would ring up to say there is a warning light on. One of the crappest things I have ever seen.

 

[ACEngineering]

After replacing that switch three times at £70 a go i sawed the top off the last switch, welded it over and screwed it back in as a plug.
What purpose does it serve other than cause annoyance and generate spare parts revenue for manitou? As long as you change the ATF oil and filter and check the level, how does the switch add anything? Ours always used to light up in reverse then a new driver would ring up to say there is a warning light on. One of the crappest things I have ever seen.

Most are screwed in to forward clutch pack so not possible to light in reverse, but some like a powershift are screwed in to main line pressure so could come on in reverse if your reverse clutch was leaking.

They are an early warning device of low pressure, main pressure is about 16bar and clutch packs are running 14bar to 15bar, the warning light often is triggers around 8 bar pressure so not low enough to stop drive normally. (when they leak they often give a false reading and put light on, its when they dont leak and put light on you need to worry!)

For some when the light comes on its there warning to put more oil in

So yeah it can be blanked off but you run the risk of doing more damage long term if it run out of oil or a clutch is leaking.

 

[mo!]

Is it a MLA or MLT? MLT does not have coolant warning light only a gauge. MLA has warning light and no gauge.

MLT has a gauge and a light. Mine is running hot, rad is clear...

 

[ACEngineering]

MLT has a gauge and a light. Mine is running hot, rad is clear...

if its not cooked then its faulty temp sender which i have had a few do this. theres 2 senders next to each other, ones for the gauge other is for the injector pump timing

 

[mo!]

if its not cooked then its faulty temp sender which i have had a few do this. theres 2 senders next to each other, ones for the gauge other is for the injector pump timing

No, it was boiling, not working particularly hard either. I might whip the rad out so I can give it a proper clean. I've replaced a couple of hoses which were gummy so it's possible the rad is blocked on the inside. Are rad flush products any good?

 

[ACEngineering]

It's a MLT, definitely has a gauge.
2nd warning light from the right is on and buzzer, looking in the book that light is "RED I.C. ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE WARNING INDICATOR" The icons are very difficult to see but its definitely 2nd from right.
Any ideas.
Thanks.

Appears you are right on the 2008 machines with the newer type dash there is a warning light as well, cant say i ever noticed IMO!

Only 2 sensors on it, one for engine timing item 24 and other for temp gauge item 21

These are right next to each other in the side of the cylinder head next to thermostat (on your right as you lift the bonnet)

Pull the wires off each one at a time, light should go out then, i cant believe the warning light is linked to the timing switch though cause that operates at about 50 deg c.

Short the wires together and gauge should go to the top and then you would think light come on too.
I think you might of 2 issues here? maybe faulty sender and a faulty gauge that not reading at all? or you got a diode blown on the dash back feeding power to water light or the rest of the warning LED bulbs have dropped out which they do and they are all lit up and its not charging battery which i common but as rest have dropped out of the holder you cant see them???

 

[ACEngineering]

No, it was boiling, not working particularly hard either. I might whip the rad out so I can give it a proper clean. I've replaced a couple of hoses which were gummy so it's possible the rad is blocked on the inside. Are rad flush products any good?

ah yeah rad hoses do that perish on the inside then drop rubber inside the top of the rad blocking the cores, you will need to back flush it with high volume water low pressure hose, like what you may fill the sprayer with or wash down hose? or high volume air line but watch the PRESSURE!

if you go the later solid rad then they block externally easy and difficult to clean out, can spend hours washing them one side then the other and still get crap out after when you blow with air line. Best way is remove it steam clean both sides and blow with air line. Repeat cycle of washing and air line till its clean, DO NOT leave wet crap in there it will bake hard like concrete and be even worse.

I know you said it looked clean but it wont be.
Check all hoses internally and replace
Fit new thermostat
check water pump for leaks and replace if required

You must go over it all and fix everything or you go round and round in circles never getting to the bottom of it, and probably end up doing head gasket before long!

 

[mo!]

ah yeah rad hoses do that perish on the inside then drop rubber inside the top of the rad blocking the cores, you will need to back flush it with high volume water low pressure hose, like what you may fill the sprayer with or wash down hose? or high volume air line but watch the PRESSURE!

if you go the later solid rad then they block externally easy and difficult to clean out, can spend hours washing them one side then the other and still get crap out after when you blow with air line. Best way is remove it steam clean both sides and blow with air line. Repeat cycle of washing and air line till its clean, DO NOT leave wet crap in there it will bake hard like concrete and be even worse.

I know you said it looked clean but it wont be.
Check all hoses internally and replace
Fit new thermostat
check water pump for leaks and replace if required

You must go over it all and fix everything or you go round and round in circles never getting to the bottom of it, and probably end up doing head gasket before long!

Rad was clean, but blocked inside. An hour with a hosepipe and hopefully it will stay cool.

 

[johnflimston]

Appears you are right on the 2008 machines with the newer type dash there is a warning light as well, cant say i ever noticed IMO!

Only 2 sensors on it, one for engine timing item 24 and other for temp gauge item 21

These are right next to each other in the side of the cylinder head next to thermostat (on your right as you lift the bonnet)

Pull the wires off each one at a time, light should go out then, i cant believe the warning light is linked to the timing switch though cause that operates at about 50 deg c.

Short the wires together and gauge should go to the top and then you would think light come on too.
I think you might of 2 issues here? maybe faulty sender and a faulty gauge that not reading at all? or you got a diode blown on the dash back feeding power to water light or the rest of the warning LED bulbs have dropped out which they do and they are all lit up and its not charging battery which i common but as rest have dropped out of the holder you cant see them???

From what you say I think it must be the diode as the gauge is working fine and the rest of the warning lights are ok.
So maybe best solution is to remove bulb?