monkey metal mowers...

Vincent

Member
Location
Kildare Ireland
The Sip new in 2005 and still fresh does about 40/50 acres a year
IMAG0351.jpg
 

smcapstick

Member
Location
Kirkby Lonsdale
I take objection to that. I've worked on and repaired many different mowers and machines. I'm also a qualified fabricator so yes I do know what I'm talking about.

I've seen quite a few samasz where the trough has cracked and the entire drum has been left behind. The gears are least of the problem. The frame will fail before the gears do
Of course you take exception, you're a prime culprit!

You're saying that this:
awww.farmersguide.co.uk_content_img_2011_09_pp45_1.jpg


...is a stronger machine than these:
Z_00.jpg
 

balerman

Member
Location
N Devon
Every single person that has complained about the quality of the steel these machines are made from has literally no idea what they are talking about.

It's very likely to be the same stuff at their local steel suppliers, too.
You are saying that these mowers are built as well and will last as long as the original Fahr and PZ ones.That is simply not true of any of the ones I have seen,whether ANY new machinery is built as strongly as it was back then is another question entirely.
 

smcapstick

Member
Location
Kirkby Lonsdale
You are saying that these mowers are built as well and will last as long as the original Fahr and PZ ones.That is simply not true of any of the ones I have seen,whether ANY new machinery is built as strongly as it was back then is another question entirely.
Quite the opposite - that comment is crucial. You singled-out Eastern European marques earlier on, now you have broadened to all. If it's indeed the case, why single out anything at all? :pompous:
 

Monty

Member
Trouble is....buying one second hand, unless you can lift it up with a tractor, you can't tell what state the saucer is in. My 35 year old PZ looks alright from a distance......but it bloody well isn't. Unable to get the saucer off to replace the bearings...so it's scrap.

Weld an old haybob tine/metal bar to the grub screws. You can soon wind them out then.
 

7610 super q

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Weld an old haybob tine/metal bar to the grub screws. You can soon wind them out then.
Got them out with a chisel. And sledgehammered wedges in. No joy. Saucers are badly worn anyway, and the Guard is a bit threadbare too. So I've decided to scrap it. Organised a contractor to mow this year, and will have to decide whether to go "Polish" or look for a tidy secondhand PZ next year. If I do find a PZ, then maybe my old one could be a source of spare parts.:)
 

Monty

Member
We had the misfortune to own a sip roto185. Saucer hub had to be replaced due to excessive wear because it was made from cheese, the main shaft along the top of the mower sheared off twice because they're made of butter, Inside bearings were hanging over the edge of a step in the shaft which caused the shaft to wear down, one of the drums parted company with the rest of the mower in the field because the nut came undone holding it on and the headstock had to be replaced because the welding failed and it twisted.
Maybe the smaller 5ft 6 one isn't as bad because they're not under the same pressure but I wouldn't touch anything sip again with a bargepole

We also had a kverneland drum mower which wasn't much better. Now have a class corto and it's in a different league build quality wise. 1994 model I think and still looks very tidy. Plus they have actually bothered to harden the shafts in it:)
 

multi power

Member
Location
pembrokeshire
Got them out with a chisel. And sledgehammered wedges in. No joy. Saucers are badly worn anyway, and the Guard is a bit threadbare too. So I've decided to scrap it. Organised a contractor to mow this year, and will have to decide whether to go "Polish" or look for a tidy secondhand PZ next year. If I do find a PZ, then maybe my old one could be a source of spare parts.:)
How much do you want for the pz?
 

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