Perkins 1000 series engine oil in water.

[DrWazzock]

Oh yes the starter motor. I had to make three special spanners to refit and retighten that when the studs sheared.

 

[DrWazzock]

Does it even need that oil cooler? It's not like we are running it a full load. Looks a bit of a Woolworths affair anyway.

 

[ACEngineering]

Oh yes the starter motor. I had to make three special spanners to refit and retighten that when the studs sheared.

yeah starter on yours is a pain too, but much easier if you replace it with the smaller higher powered iskra unit which you can get a socket set on easy.

 

[ACEngineering]

Does it even need that oil cooler? It's not like we are running it a full load. Looks a bit of a Woolworths affair anyway.

all turbo spec have oil coolers cause the heat in turbo would run the oil very hot other wise.

 

[ACEngineering]

I think the perkins part number you will want is P2486A219 Bepco have it but I think its pricey at £190 + vat.

I think a genuine one from Diperk will be less than that. or maybe Leone75 will have a good used one at the right money? there was one on one of the scrap/old engines I sold him the other year!

 

[Mursal]

Is it leaking, did I miss a bit?

 

[ACEngineering]

Is it leaking, did I miss a bit?

no, I was just getting ahead of the game

 

[DrWazzock]

Having today drained the torque converter unit oil, I am more inclined to think it is a leak between the radiator and the transmission oil circuit. I reckon there is a pink tinge from the ATF fluid under the rad cap.

So, looks like the either

Recon the rad as they don't do a replacement anymore

Or

Fit a separate heat exchanger for the trans oil behind the radiatior

Or

Replace the engine cooling water with ATF fluid. This is just a thought as then cross leakage wouldn't matter but would the ATF fluid provide sufficient heat transfer from the engine through the rad?

 

[DrWazzock]

It's not a big leak as level in rad isn't really changing, nor is level in transmission unit but it's enough to make a mess.

 

[ACEngineering]

It's not a big leak as level in rad isn't really changing, nor is level in transmission unit but it's enough to make a mess.

Trans cooler generally leaks water into the trany. When cooling it can take a bit of oil the other way. I yhink rads are available but at very steep money. It can usually be repaired as its just a big tube in bottom tank of rad.

 

[Mursal]

You need to price the alternatives you have mentioned.
Oil instead of coolant would be a last resort.
A simple steel pipe matrix placed just in front of the coolant radiator might be sufficient to keep the transmission oil cool. Depends on how hot it runs. Use the steel pipe as the radiator.

 

[puntabrava]

yeah starter on yours is a pain too, but much easier if you replace it with the smaller higher powered iskra unit which you can get a socket set on easy.

My 2004 530/ 70 had a new starter fitted by jcb dealer about 150 hrs ago, on Sunday I was using it and smelt electrical burning so turned the engine off to hear the starter whizzing around, disconnected the battery and let it cool down but now it turns over so so when cold but is as if the battery is flat when warm. Obviously starter is knacked again but what caused it to be turning once started, and how much is one of your starters? Looks a nightmare to fit.

 

[ACEngineering]

My 2004 530/ 70 had a new starter fitted by jcb dealer about 150 hrs ago, on Sunday I was using it and smelt electrical burning so turned the engine off to hear the starter whizzing around, disconnected the battery and let it cool down but now it turns over so so when cold but is as if the battery is flat when warm. Obviously starter is knacked again but what caused it to be turning once started, and how much is one of your starters? Looks a nightmare to fit.

Depends on the spec how bad they are to fit. If its got the original style on it then it will be harder to get off than fitting the new one as mine are a smaller body so you can get spanners and sockets on easily.
There is a big panel under engine that comes off. If its a 120hp then it will be tight for room yes but not so bad once you get stuck in.

Can offer 3 options.
3.2kw easy to fit £185 plus vat delivered
4.2kw not so easy as its m10 battery eyes on solenoid instead of m8. Plus you have to find somewere else to bolt earth on engine there is a threaded hole in block I normally use. £180 plus vat delivered.

4.2kw again but is an easier fit as stud is m8 and it has position to bolt earth to starter. £240ish plus vat delivered.

All starters are same make clearly the 4.2kw is better.

Having said all that yours will be covered on warranty as it was supplied and fitted by jcb dealer. As for reason its failed something went wrong with the solenoid. It either got stuck mechanically so did not disengage or the terminals in solenoid welded them selfs shut possibly due to lack of power of battery maybe and hanging on the key too long in the hope it would go?
With a bit of modification to battery holder a 642 battery as used on the ecomax jcb 3cx etc is the highest capacity that will fit at 1000cca and 120ah plus its cheaper than the one jcb tell you to use.

 

[puntabrava]

Depends on the spec how bad they are to fit. If its got the original style on it then it will be harder to get off than fitting the new one as mine are a smaller body so you can get spanners and sockets on easily.
There is a big panel under engine that comes off. If its a 120hp then it will be tight for room yes but not so bad once you get stuck in.

Can offer 3 options.
3.2kw easy to fit £185 plus vat delivered
4.2kw not so easy as its m10 battery eyes on solenoid instead of m8. Plus you have to find somewere else to bolt earth on engine there is a threaded hole in block I normally use. £180 plus vat delivered.

4.2kw again but is an easier fit as stud is m8 and it has position to bolt earth to starter. £240ish plus vat delivered.

All starters are same make clearly the 4.2kw is better.

Having said all that yours will be covered on warranty as it was supplied and fitted by jcb dealer. As for reason its failed something went wrong with the solenoid. It either got stuck mechanically so did not disengage or the terminals in solenoid welded them selfs shut possibly due to lack of power of battery maybe and hanging on the key too long in the hope it would go?
With a bit of modification to battery holder a 642 battery as used on the ecomax jcb 3cx etc is the highest capacity that will fit at 1000cca and 120ah plus its cheaper than the one jcb tell you to use.

Doubt it will be warranty as it was a year and a few months ago it was fitted, is the 120hp version. When they fitted the new starter it still would not turn over very quick so give the fitter his due he thought the new starter was a dud and changed it again, the second one worked better. Doesn't inspire you to fit the same again.

 

[Mursal]

The key might have being sending a signal to the starter to turn, or the solenoid on the starter (round thing on the top) might have stuck closed.
Try the key a few times after you fit the new starter, so its not sticking .........

 

[ACEngineering]

Doubt it will be warranty as it was a year and a few months ago it was fitted, is the 120hp version. When they fitted the new starter it still would not turn over very quick so give the fitter his due he thought the new starter was a dud and changed it again, the second one worked better. Doesn't inspire you to fit the same again.

Somethings telling me it was not a genuine jcb starter he fitted but a cheap vapormatic or sparex lucas copy?
As siad it could have been ignition switch or even a relay.

 

[puntabrava]

The key might have being sending a signal to the starter to turn, or the solenoid on the starter (round thing on the top) might have stuck closed.
Try the key a few times after you fit the new starter, so its not sticking .........

Might be an idea to fit a new barrel, thought I was going to lose her before I got back from the workshop with a spanner to undo the battery. Would be a shame as it only has 3500 hrs on it.

 

[Mursal]

Don't go mad, as @ACEngineering said it might be a relay with dirty contacts.
Probably the starter itself, so you might just be throwing money away.
If you want the put a large bulb (55W) on the little control wire going to the solenoid on the top of the starter, it should go out each and every time you let the key off. One wire from the bulb to the wire and the other to the chassis/earth.
Just keep an eye on it after fitting the new starter, battery terminal spanner on the floor of the cab for a bit.

 

[Mursal]

To locate the relay (if fitted), disconnect the little control wire off the starter solenoid and work the key, you will hear the relay click as you turn the key to the start position. Just change it if you want to be sure.

 

[ACEngineering]

Might be an idea to fit a new barrel, thought I was going to lose her before I got back from the workshop with a spanner to undo the battery. Would be a shame as it only has 3500 hrs on it.

I keep ignition switches as well there the same as a Manitou. Putting a bulb on the trigger wire on starter is no bad idea. a 55watt bulb will draw about 4amps so will load the circuit as much if not more than the solenoid would normally? this should soon tell you if there is another hidden problem with switch or relay although it wont tell you if the battery and leads are any good.
Poor battery or power supply to starter will make the main contacts in side over heat in turn could weld them selves together.

TBH it was most likely a duff starter motor. Take a pic of the starter if you can lets see what they fitted?