Phosphorus Liberator

[Zan]

Has anyone used or had any dealings with using Phosphorus liberator?
Is it a load of bull crap or does it work?
costs?

 

[Yale]

Would I be wrong but getting your ph right is the basis for releasing locked up nutrients?

@Brisel

 

[teslacoils]

Ah the stuff the sell when a dollop of lime and animal poop is whats needed.

bull crap

This. You need this. It's been the right stuff for many years.

 

[Brisel]

Would I be wrong but getting your ph right is the basis for releasing locked up nutrients?

@Brisel

Yes to your question, though you’ll find it harder to acidify chalk as there is too much of an alkaline buffer.

No experience or knowledge of Phosphorus Liberator.

 

[Hobbit]

I have been given a can to try. Very high ph so not much chance of lowering it and issues with phosphate locking up. I will be trying a couple tram lines in 2 separate fields but 20L won’t go far at10L/ha. Not expecting much but will keep an open mind.

 

[Bogweevil]

According to data sheet based on 'carboxylic acids' which could be formic acid, vinegar, citric acid, lactic acid, all sort of things - the manufacturer specialises in acid ingredients for the food industry.

There is some science that shows citric acid soil treatment makes phosphorus more available, but whether this is cost effective all depends.

 

[teslacoils]

Given the limited mobility in soil, surely better as a seed dressing then?

 

[N.Yorks.]

What is your soil P index to begin with? If you're P index 2/3 then all should be fine in an arable situation......

Looked at the claims on the product website and it's interesting that they are claiming you get WW plant weight differences of... wait for it..... 0.3g!!! They don't claim any yield data for treated versus untreated land...... draw your own conclusions!

Better plan: adjust pH to 6.5 (arable), sample a season later to see the effect on P index then apply fert and muck appropriately.

 

[Nitrams]

According to data sheet based on 'carboxylic acids' which could be formic acid, vinegar, citric acid, lactic acid, all sort of things - the manufacturer specialises in acid ingredients for the food industry.

There is some science that shows citric acid soil treatment makes phosphorus more available, but whether this is cost effective all depends.

Would that make it the same breed as fulvic amd humic acid? I beleive there are some citric acid based wetters but stand to be corrected

 

[Zan]

I’ve got a guy ringing me tomorrow with some prices......

 

[Cab-over Pete]

Get your pH right and then, if you need any, use a more readily available source of phosphate like P-Grow.

And don’t listen to any fertiliser salesman who says it won’t work and that you’ll be better off with tsp

 

[ajd132]

Get your pH right and then, if you need any, use a more readily available source of phosphate like P-Grow.

And don’t listen to any fertiliser salesman who says it won’t work and that you’ll be better off with tsp

Also get the soil biology working so we can access years of locked up phosphorus additions

 

[Yale]

Also get the soil biology working so we can access years of locked up phosphorus additions

And to further that getting your ph up to the optimum with lime will ensure your soil biology is far happier.

I don’t sell lime but I use lots of it.

If you are looking at stats look at accurate ones from trials for optimising ph compared to the product.

I can almost guarantee that application of lime will be the most cost effective regarding return.

Have a read.

https://www.teagasc.ie/media/website/environment/soil/Advice-on-Liming-Leaflet.pdf

 

[ajd132]

And to further that getting your ph up to the optimum with lime will ensure your soil biology is far happier.

I don’t sell lime but I use lots of it.

If you are looking at stats look at accurate ones from trials for optimising ph compared to the product.

I can almost guarantee that application of lime will be the most cost effective regarding return.

Have a read.

https://www.teagasc.ie/media/website/environment/soil/Advice-on-Liming-Leaflet.pdf

I agree

 

[Badshot]

Get your pH right and then, if you need any, use a more readily available source of phosphate like P-Grow.

And don’t listen to any fertiliser salesman who says it won’t work and that you’ll be better off with tsp

I'm using p grow, and soyl and my agronomist both dislike it saying it's only available in acid solution.
I disagree, right or wrong?

 

[Hobbit]

Hi. Any thoughts on how to lower your ph? 7.5-8.2 here. Most phosphate seems to be locked up hence trying a bit of phosphate liberator.

 

[Badshot]

Hi. Any thoughts on how to lower your ph? 7.5-8.2 here. Most phosphate seems to be locked up hence trying a bit of phosphate liberator.

Bag n lowers pH over time.

 

[Yale]

I agree

Liming is so underrated.

If it was a new product with a fancy glossy leaflet and @Clive spread it using his Fendt,twin beacons flashing farmers would be falling over themselves to buy it.

Maybe lime needs sexing up a bit,perhaps @Kevtherev and @Cab-over Pete could get together to commission a calendar with the help of @Bald Rick as technical manager.

 

[Hobbit]

Bag n lowers pH over time.

We have been fully reliant on AN and sulphur for the last 30 years. It hasn’t really made a difference to the ph. It might have a short term affect?

 

[Badshot]

We have been fully reliant on AN and sulphur for the last 30 years. It hasn’t really made a difference to the ph. It might have a short term affect?

If you've not seen it change yet, then it won't do short term.
Our pH always was above 7, in the last twenty years it's got lower and now with pH mapping there's areas that are low 6 high 5. I will say that most field averages are ok though so without mapping I'd still think all was fine and dandy.