There are four big bolts with lock nuts just up over the knife bank , easy to find . , I think they are 30 mm , you need to slacked of a row of 19 mm studs that lock the lot together there are hard to find up next the floor you need an extension to reach them
Pottinger Europrofi 4000/4500
- Thread starter jack_c
- Start date
Any pictures and price and what year and load count
Carrot Kid
Member
- Location
- Londonderry/Suffolk
Sorry I'm only seeing this now. Yes I know the machine, lifted a load or two with her before!
Looks tidy,best of luck with it
Better to wait and see which manufacturer ahem! ( influences) the nutritionalists this year to see which way they try to steer us .
Seems to change every couple of years chopping is the way forward, no wait a minute, forage wagon is better because the longer forage is better for the cows digestion, no wait chopping but with half set knives is better because there is less waste on the pit , no Waite forage wagon because of the fuel saving.
I am sure there is a thread or 50 on the subject here somewhere!!,
At the end of the day whatvworks for you is always right.
Seems to change every couple of years chopping is the way forward, no wait a minute, forage wagon is better because the longer forage is better for the cows digestion, no wait chopping but with half set knives is better because there is less waste on the pit , no Waite forage wagon because of the fuel saving.
I am sure there is a thread or 50 on the subject here somewhere!!,
At the end of the day whatvworks for you is always right.
Yes you can adjust the censor on the top lid that lifts with the grass.
Superted820
Member
- Location
- Cornwall.
If it's the same as mine there's a small panel at the centre of the front of the wagon that has a bolt in the middle of it. There's a pressure sensor behind it so if you screw it in you will compress more and if you release it will let compression off. A full turn makes a big difference.
One downside to the pottinger is the poor paint quality on certain years. I had two that were rusting within months. To be fair, most had the panels replaced; but many owners didn't bother.
Amazing to see 20 year old wagons not a blemish and < 10 year old torros and europrofis all rusting on the panels up beside the front next to the floor. Not cheap to replace.
Amazing to see 20 year old wagons not a blemish and < 10 year old torros and europrofis all rusting on the panels up beside the front next to the floor. Not cheap to replace.
I've often commented on how good the pottinger paint is on mine , my 11 yr old Torros don't look their age as the paintwork is perfect , but they are always housed , I have seen a couple of toros with rust where you say but they would never have seen a power hose or a shed.
Best of luck with it all you need now is a good Sharpner .
Seemingly they used two suppliers and one supplier wasn't up to the task.
One bit of advice for the poster is to run the wagon or get a days guarantee.
If a wagon has a problem with either the knife bank or rotor; this can lead to all sorts of problems. Knives getting pulled out or ending up in the load is typical of a knife and tine or scraper out of alignment.
Another is to make sure the wagon wasn't rolled or on its side.
The boy who helps me has a 2011 Torro. There is bad metal in parts at the top under the yellow paint. It's a good wagon though. I have been told that the krone titan r rotor give problems. Have you heard or do you agree with this. Thanks in advance.
That's slightly worrying, we tried a few loads last week to check what way she was running, after 3 loads we were clearing her out at home and I dropped the knife bank down, 2 knives remained lodged in the wagon and one was missing,
I take it this is due to wear in the knife bank?
Also 2 of the flights in the rotor are slightly loose and chatter under load, can these be welded?
Tia