Pump and Couplings for Digestate

[Digester Man]

We have been spreading digestate for the past 5 years with a Doda HD35 with Slurrykat headland management on it, the pump has served us well but the headland system has been quite problematic, it struggles to activate the return to tank valve when we are pumping long distance. My pump man is also fed up sitting in the tractor for a full week, when he could be off doing other jobs around the yard. Are there any good engine driven pump sets out there with a reliable headland system on them? I want to be able to turn off the dribble bar and simultaneously the pump needs to open a valve to return slurry to the tank while I get myself turned around. The Slurrykat system does this very well *when it works* but it's just too unreliable.

On the subject of couplings, we used genuine Storz couplings with random wrap reelers. The pipes are always connected together while the reeler is in storage and we find the digestate residue corrodes the inside of the couplings and makes them impossible to join together again, as the rubber seals are distorted out of their groove. We have to take them all apart every year and scrape off the corrosion and fit new seals, which is a real PITA! We love the Storz as they can be reeled up from either end of the pipe, but really a stainless steel version would be much better. Are there any out there?

@Peppa pig @DGC1 @Speedstar

 

[Speedstar]

We have been spreading digestate for the past 5 years with a Doda HD35 with Slurrykat headland management on it, the pump has served us well but the headland system has been quite problematic, it struggles to activate the return to tank valve when we are pumping long distance. My pump man is also fed up sitting in the tractor for a full week, when he could be off doing other jobs around the yard. Are there any good engine driven pump sets out there with a reliable headland system on them? I want to be able to turn off the dribble bar and simultaneously the pump needs to open a valve to return slurry to the tank while I get myself turned around. The Slurrykat system does this very well *when it works* but it's just too unreliable.

On the subject of couplings, we used genuine Storz couplings with random wrap reelers. The pipes are always connected together while the reeler is in storage and we find the digestate residue corrodes the inside of the couplings and makes them impossible to join together again, as the rubber seals are distorted out of their groove. We have to take them all apart every year and scrape off the corrosion and fit new seals, which is a real PITA! We love the Storz as they can be reeled up from either end of the pipe, but really a stainless steel version would be much better. Are there any out there?

@Peppa pig @DGC1 @Speedstar

We only had that problem on the 4" storz couplings , some people put water throw the hose to wash it out think that works well, There is a very good pump set to sell in the R C Baker sale this next week which could be set up how you want it by silspread, but if you are pumping down hill at all it is a waste of time , but a remote control of you can up & down the rpms from the spreading tractor so should work ok

 

[Mc115reed]

when you think your gonna be finished for a while just do half an hours pumping out of a pond or something blow it across a field then your pipes are cleaned out properly… we have too do it after sand lagoons..
pump sets mainly all run on the doda hd35 or Bauer sx1000 anyways unless your spending big big money … there’s only really the slurry kat headland shite available but for spreading digestate in tramlines I really wouldn’t fancy using that or anything like it tbf… the second that sh!t stops coming out the dribble bar your pressure goes somewhere and your pipes will either go soft and twist ups at strange points in the field or your pipes will go too pressurised and blow a hole… headland management so you can shut off the inside few nozzles would be a far better investment if your just trying too stop a bit of mess

 

[Blue.]

I’ve a remote wired into the hms on my tractor,I could have it diverting if I wanted,currently it’s set up so it turns the pit pal on then turns on the pump and finally revs up to a pre-set,I’ve it set to switch off in reverse order and it can be timed to slow the sequence down.
I’ve also had bother with the 6” storz fittings,the thinner part that holds the seal cracks and wears away then the seal is forced into the lugs.

 

[Digester Man]

@Mc115reed to be fair the Slurrykat system works very well, the pipe stays hard so it doesn't knot, and the excess pressure goes back into the tank. The problem is that it takes its oil flow from the little oil cooler on the Doda, and there isn't enough oil flow to get the valve open. It's ok at 600m, but when we are out 1600m there's 12 bar of pressure at the pump and the small oil pump on the Doda can't get the gate valve open (yes we are on pressure rated stainless steel knife valves).

 

[PI Stsker]

Digestate is very corrosive even for galvanised tanks you see the pitting. The best and only way I’ve found to get away from it is either shug fittings (£££) or end of season crack all couplings and wash off with a bucket of water. Segmented reeler would help too as dosnt ‘weld’ together over time. If being used regular then dosnt seem to effect it.
As for the headland divert using it the way you do isn’t really what it was intended for. It’s ment just for diverting back to the pit on field changes not on turns, a front tank is an option to put in to tank when turning then spread again. But most people would leave running when turning and maybe shut off the inside section to avoid too much pooling on headlands.
All manufacturers do a bypass system for there pumps, where abouts in the country are you I can quote you on a telemetry controlled pump set with a pump of your choice.

 

[Speedstar]

We run some stainless steel storz couplings they are very good but not cheap every spreading machine has them on & some of the hose

 

[Wisconsonian]

If it's the aluminum corrosion behind the rubber that's building up and distorting the rubber, have you tried silicone grease behind the seals? Even on brand new couplers, take the seal out, grease it. Only delays the inevitable

 

[Geoffrey Wox]

We have been spreading digestate for the past 5 years with a Doda HD35 with Slurrykat headland management on it, the pump has served us well but the headland system has been quite problematic, it struggles to activate the return to tank valve when we are pumping long distance. My pump man is also fed up sitting in the tractor for a full week, when he could be off doing other jobs around the yard. Are there any good engine driven pump sets out there with a reliable headland system on them? I want to be able to turn off the dribble bar and simultaneously the pump needs to open a valve to return slurry to the tank while I get myself turned around. The Slurrykat system does this very well *when it works* but it's just too unreliable.

On the subject of couplings, we used genuine Storz couplings with random wrap reelers. The pipes are always connected together while the reeler is in storage and we find the digestate residue corrodes the inside of the couplings and makes them impossible to join together again, as the rubber seals are distorted out of their groove. We have to take them all apart every year and scrape off the corrosion and fit new seals, which is a real PITA! We love the Storz as they can be reeled up from either end of the pipe, but really a stainless steel version would be much better. Are there any out there?

@Peppa pig @DGC1 @Speedstar

Hello Rob,
Have you thought about running a front tank instead of shutting the pump down?
To my mind a front tank gives you a number of advantages over running the pump up and down/shutting off.
With regard to couplings the Metal 360 Shug coupling would totally remove all of your coupling issues.
Regards

 

[Geoffrey Wox]

The Shug can easily be adapted to Stortz also.

 

[Blue.]

The Shug can easily be adapted to Stortz also.

What stops the linchpin coming out?

Heard lots of people sticking bolts in because the pins come out,one thing with Storz they never come undone.

 

[Geoffrey Wox]

What stops the linchpin coming out?

Heard lots of people sticking bolts in because the pins come out,one thing with Storz they never come undone.

Hi,
We always put an M8 bolt through for 100% integrity.

 

[bez]

M8 stainless steel bolt with a nylock nut. Brilliant couplings, have never let us down.

 

[Digester Man]

Shug look excellent but I prefer non-sexed couplings as it gives us more options when reeling up pipes. It allows us move to the other end of the pipe if there are a lot of twists in the pipe, or one end is lying in a wet patch in the field.

The front tank sounds interesting, though 2m3 of slurry would be a tight lift on the front of our little 516! Not sure it really helps with compaction and soft ground conditions either.

 

[Blue.]

Shug look excellent but I prefer non-sexed couplings as it gives us more options when reeling up pipes. It allows us move to the other end of the pipe if there are a lot of twists in the pipe, or one end is lying in a wet patch in the field.

The front tank sounds interesting, though 2m3 of slurry would be a tight lift on the front of our little 516! Not sure it really helps with compaction and soft ground conditions either.

Stainless storz would be the answer then,I’d hate to go back to non-sexed couplings,it wouldn’t happen.

Regards headland control,why don’t you just drop the pump tractor revs a little with a remote control while you turn?

I know a lad who sells a well proven remote system at a fraction of the mainstream sellers,he’d solve you problems.

 

[davidroberts30]

If you use a front tank to turn on headlands how does it empty out ready for the next?

 

[bez]

Shug look excellent but I prefer non-sexed couplings as it gives us more options when reeling up pipes. It allows us move to the other end of the pipe if there are a lot of twists in the pipe, or one end is lying in a wet patch in the field.

The front tank sounds interesting, though 2m3 of slurry would be a tight lift on the front of our little 516! Not sure it really helps with compaction and soft ground conditions either.

Snug pipes are sexless, there’s a removable insert.

 

[PI Stsker]

I’d imagine the easiest solution to your problem is shutting the inside section of the bar down and turning that way if a tank is too heavy

 

[Digester Man]

Snug pipes are sexless, there’s a removable insert.

Really? I didn’t know that.

We already run twin macerators and can turn off either side but it’s hardly perfect. When the digestate we spread accounts for 75% of our total fertiliser inputs, we need it going on even. Shutting off completely allows us to completely eliminate overlapping and missing bits which just can’t be avoided when trying to spread whilst turning.

Also when pulling a pipe down a 90 acre field, there’s so much drag on the pipe that a 3 point turn is the only way to get turned at the ends.