Radiators not heating up

[Jsmith2211]

Sealed system is it?
Oil boiler combi boiler?
Expansion vessel?
More info needed possibly???

I know about as much about central heating as I do about rocket science... so bear with me if this is wrong. But I THINK it is a sealed system, theres a little red tank which I think is an expansion tank. There is a pump which is red and black and looks a lot like the one in your thread. could even be the same pump. Has an oil fired boiler which also does the hot water (and is now working perfectly).

valves up high est points and manually let it off , or auto valves but i find they dont work so e=well as just going there and doing it yourself when required.

I've let the air out of the highest point bleed valves, but didn't change anything.

 

[Bury the Trash]

I know about as much about central heating as I do about rocket science... so bear with me if this is wrong. But I THINK it is a sealed system, theres a little red tank which I think is an expansion tank. There is a pump which is red and black and looks a lot like the one in your thread. could even be the same pump. Has an oil fired boiler which also does the hot water (and is now working perfectly).

I've let the air out of the highest point bleed valves, but didn't change anything.

can take a while fro air bubbles to move around so youy would need to do it aevery no and then and better when its settled / the pums isant pumping around ,
thats why auto vales are better ina way they are at it all the time as the bubbles move around , once airs in there as said above it take s time to get all out not like a one off go.

can get much dearer ones better quality maybe with higher temp tolerance etc

 

[Still Farming]

I know about as much about central heating as I do about rocket science... so bear with me if this is wrong. But I THINK it is a sealed system, theres a little red tank which I think is an expansion tank. There is a pump which is red and black and looks a lot like the one in your thread. could even be the same pump. Has an oil fired boiler which also does the hot water (and is now working perfectly).

I've let the air out of the highest point bleed valves, but didn't change anything.

Take photo possibly.
Air is a nightmare .
When you say the pump is new , why was that changed?
Was system drained then?
Anything else done to system recently?
Who did work?, plumber or you , what do they say?

 

[Adeptandy]

Whats the best way to get the air out then?

Tbh, I’ve never been able to explain in a simplified way without writing an essay, it’s one of those things that it’s easier to show than to tell, sorry

 

[Jsmith2211]

Take photo possibly.
Air is a nightmare .
When you say the pump is new , why was that changed?
Was system drained then?
Anything else done to system recently?
Who did work?, plumber or you , what do they say?

Plumber, pump was replaced a while ago if I remember rightly it was because the heating wasn’t working and the boiler was cutting out. The tank was replaced because the boiler was cutting out because of it which lead to not having any hot water or heating. Haven’t called him out yet was hoping it would be something simple.. it’s had lots of little things done to it usually because the boiler starts cutting out / no radiators work at all. There’s about 5 that haven’t worked for at least 5 years I’d say, usually isn’t an issue as the fire is lit but we ran out of logs today, and you notice it.

actually as I write this I am sat in the room above the boiler pump etc, and I can hear gurgling almost like there’s air in there… I’m assuming that isn’t meant to be

 

[Adeptandy]

Plumber, pump was replaced a while ago if I remember rightly it was because the heating wasn’t working and the boiler was cutting out. The tank was replaced because the boiler was cutting out because of it which lead to not having any hot water or heating. Haven’t called him out yet was hoping it would be something simple.. it’s had lots of little things done to it usually because the boiler starts cutting out / no radiators work at all. There’s about 5 that haven’t worked for at least 5 years I’d say, usually isn’t an issue as the fire is lit but we ran out of logs today, and you notice it.

actually as I write this I am sat in the room above the boiler pump etc, and I can hear gurgling almost like there’s air in there… I’m assuming that isn’t meant to be

Yes, that’s air

 

[Jsmith2211]

Yes, that’s air

Right well at least we’ve a fair idea what the issue is. I guess if there’s air in the system that could affect the pressure?

 

[Adeptandy]

Right well at least we’ve a fair idea what the issue is. I guess if there’s air in the system that could affect the pressure?

Yes, it can cause a few issues with a sealed system

 

[sjt01]

can take a while fro air bubbles to move around so youy would need to do it aevery no and then and better when its settled / the pums isant pumping around ,
thats why auto vales are better ina way they are at it all the time as the bubbles move around , once airs in there as said above it take s time to get all out not like a one off go.
View attachment 1157666
can get much dearer ones better quality maybe with higher temp tolerance etc

After having many of these failing, I now only use Spirotech, about 10 times the price but unlikely to dribble over everywhere in 5 years time, good guarantee!

 

[steveR]

its fudgin cold here atm


as i get older im not sure i want to be shovrlling logs and ash for much longer.

Rayburns are pretty carp if were honest.

I agree with all of the above!

 

[Still Farming]

Is there any self venting values anywhere?
Take cap off and gently tap sides, air should come out.
Have you bled pump too if screw on it

 

[Bury the Trash]

After having many of these failing, I now only use Spirotech, about 10 times the price but unlikely to dribble over everywhere in 5 years time, good guarantee!
View attachment 1157759

i will look them out , but would /will they work on very low pressure system i wonder , would be ideal if they do.
all i use atm is simple drain cocks

mounted up top instead of 'down below' so to speak.

what i do is manually A little and often turn of the valve let out the bitof ao-ir that might be there then close as soon as the no air solid water comes out .can take some time for it all to get caught as it goes around and thats as long as its not stuck somewhere, needs a darn good vbartion or shake upall round which aint easy to do of course.

surprising how you can wikr your way around these things if you just try and have a go and remmber what you do and if it works , and its good observayion a lot of the time .wiil get to know your own system , you dont do that be paying someone else to do it.
but then it depends on what sort of person you are i suppose me i get proper excited about diy. nowadays never used to though i must admit.
thats in a solar thermal system and theres 2 in our modest 3 rad central heating system at different places on the piperun from room to room up in the loft

 

[Bury the Trash]

Is there any self venting values anywhere?
Take cap off and gently tap sides, air should come out.
Have you bled pump too if screw on it

yes some pumps don't like air at all.

and then choose top speed to purge.

 

[br jones]

have you bled the pump ? sometimes they get a bubble formed in them that takes a bit of shifting

 

[Adeptandy]

yes some pumps don't like air at all.

and then choose top speed to purge.

If you do that when the waters up to temperature then it will be the worst thing to do, I find varying it between all 3 speeds is more effective

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Do you know which rad is furthest in line? We had issues in our old house with towel rail which was at end of line not getting very warm. Changed the blanking plug at the top to a male male and rigged a hose from it to shower. Opened valve on one side then used filling loop to maintain nearly three bar in system when is was cold for about five minutes then closed valve on one side and opened other one and did same. It cleared a lot out of system. Just partially drained towel rail down then to pour a bottle or two of inhibitor in and topped up. Was fine afterwards.

 

[Jsmith2211]

Do you know which rad is furthest in line? We had issues in our old house with towel rail which was at end of line not getting very warm. Changed the blanking plug at the top to a male male and rigged a hose from it to shower. Opened valve on one side then used filling loop to maintain nearly three bar in system when is was cold for about five minutes then closed valve on one side and opened other one and did same. It cleared a lot out of system. Just partially drained towel rail down then to pour a bottle or two of inhibitor in and topped up. Was fine afterwards.

no unfortunately I dont... not sure how i'd find out either?

 

[flywheel]

Close all radiator s & then when heating pump starts up start at nearest radiator& open till it starts to heat up then move to next etc

 

[Wisconsonian]

It's easier to bleed air cold. Add water up to the limit of the relief valve. Turn the pump off, wait till it stops making noise, turn it on for a few seconds or as long as it's trying to make noise and move air, repeat until it's virtually silent. The pump should be silent, barely humming when there's no air in it. Then go bleed the radiators. if you can shut off the ones that work, it will help bleed the ones that don't work.

 

[Jsmith2211]

It's easier to bleed air cold. Add water up to the limit of the relief valve. Turn the pump off, wait till it stops making noise, turn it on for a few seconds or as long as it's trying to make noise and move air, repeat until it's virtually silent. The pump should be silent, barely humming when there's no air in it. Then go bleed the radiators. if you can shut off the ones that work, it will help bleed the ones that don't work.

Is it safe to add that much pressure? Pump is quiet and no air came out of the bleed on the pump