- Location
- Near Colchester
Wouldn't trust it myself, finding out could be expensive and annoying.
Wouldn't trust it myself, finding out could be expensive and annoying.
best have the poker sat in the bucket or at top of wall it knackers them fast draping them over the top of wallOne when they were ply.View attachment 265620
best have the poker sat in the bucket or at top of wall it knackers them fast draping them over the top of wall
Which one?, I am on my second Belle and it is sounding a bit iffyYes we use the scissor lift now,far easier since I bought an electric drive motor for the poker rather than the troublesome Honda engine we had.
Which one?, I am on my second Belle and it is sounding a bit iffy
It is nearly the season for it here too - just have to wait for the frame to be put up (this week, apparently), the wheat drilling to be finished, cattle to be pd'd, sheep to get in, fencing to be done, and all the livestock to be fed and bedded. Oh, and of course, no frost or heavy rain, or weekend work (as I am on my own then).Doing a bit of this atm.
Got the first one done today in a spare couple of hours, it is easier after you have 'found' all the bits and pieces and reminded everyone how it is done, this years big step forward is an impact wrench for the bolts.
So using a pan mixer and a Milwauki wrench does that make me good or bad? @RWG Contracts
View attachment 434894
Taking off the shutters today, they are 60 x 40 x 3 box in three sections - 2 x 8 foot and one 5 foot, ply is 12mm marine and will do about 50 walls per side if you are careful with the poker.Any closer pictures of the shutters? they look very handy! often ment to make up something here..would ya make any changes to them if u were making them again?
Taking off the shutters today, they are 60 x 40 x 3 box in three sections - 2 x 8 foot and one 5 foot, ply is 12mm marine and will do about 50 walls per side if you are careful with the poker.
Bolts are 16 mm although I do use M 12 sometimes, bit of alkathene covering bolt inside the walls (they usually knock out later) and the top has to be held with steel pipe to keep the wall straight. They are the things on top of the new wall standing upright.
If I were to make them again (they are 20 years old and have done over 200 walls so far) I would probably make them in one piece but I quite often do short walls in pig pens and the ability to divide them up has been jolly useful.
View attachment 435222
That wall about £100 I think. It is 10 inches thick though, I view it as bracing the building (yes, I know I have concreted in the storm brace too). There will be another pour on top when I get around to it to take it up to nearly 8 feet.What does it cost you in materials per pour?
Best way there is to make wall for strength /making shed rigid and can load from either side no problemTaking off the shutters today, they are 60 x 40 x 3 box in three sections - 2 x 8 foot and one 5 foot, ply is 12mm marine and will do about 50 walls per side if you are careful with the poker.
Bolts are 16 mm although I do use M 12 sometimes, bit of alkathene covering bolt inside the walls (they usually knock out later) and the top has to be held with steel pipe to keep the wall straight. They are the things on top of the new wall standing upright.
If I were to make them again (they are 20 years old and have done over 200 walls so far) I would probably make them in one piece but I quite often do short walls in pig pens and the ability to divide them up has been jolly useful.
View attachment 435222
That wall about £100 I think. It is 10 inches thick though, I view it as bracing the building (yes, I know I have concreted in the storm brace too). There will be another pour on top when I get around to it to take it up to nearly 8 feet.
You don't lose any shed, the shed girders are there to weld to if required and it is bomb/student/geriatric (me) proof.
It is a tad irksome if you change your mind and want to create an opening there in the future however.
Taking off the shutters today, they are 60 x 40 x 3 box in three sections - 2 x 8 foot and one 5 foot, ply is 12mm marine and will do about 50 walls per side if you are careful with the poker.
Bolts are 16 mm although I do use M 12 sometimes, bit of alkathene covering bolt inside the walls (they usually knock out later) and the top has to be held with steel pipe to keep the wall straight. They are the things on top of the new wall standing upright.
If I were to make them again (they are 20 years old and have done over 200 walls so far) I would probably make them in one piece but I quite often do short walls in pig pens and the ability to divide them up has been jolly useful.
View attachment 435222
Taking off the shutters today, they are 60 x 40 x 3 box in three sections - 2 x 8 foot and one 5 foot, ply is 12mm marine and will do about 50 walls per side if you are careful with the poker.
Bolts are 16 mm although I do use M 12 sometimes, bit of alkathene covering bolt inside the walls (they usually knock out later) and the top has to be held with steel pipe to keep the wall straight. They are the things on top of the new wall standing upright.
If I were to make them again (they are 20 years old and have done over 200 walls so far) I would probably make them in one piece but I quite often do short walls in pig pens and the ability to divide them up has been jolly useful.
View attachment 435222
No need.Going by the pics do you not fix the ply to the shutter frame?
Not in these walls, only 3 x 15 (?) mm re bar in total, one near the bottom an two in the top section. We only put mesh in the walls that really have stress like in the grainstore or on the muck slab.It all looks a very good job and am quite intrested. Keep the photos coming. [emoji38][emoji106] wouldn't mind making something to bodge about with at home. Are you putting mesh in the wals,?