Best practice is to tie off both ends and tension and join the wire in the middle of the run, although on short runs its fine to tie off one end after tensioning.
The Fencing Picture Thread
- Thread starter Andy26
- Start date
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
all of my runs for the forseeable future are <30m, as i am building a pig pen network
- Location
- North Wales
I wouldn't worry too much, 90% of the fences in wales will be hard staled the same as your doing.
Is it the right way? No, but sure plenty of people will say they have done it that way for 30+ years and never had a problem. The trouble is your putting all of the tension on to the side of the strainer which is acting as a twisting force and trying to rotate the strainer in the ground which will slacken the wire as it moves. Hard stapling also affects the strength of the wire which can (and will) break at the point where the staple has pinched it hard leading to broken wires in the future.These problems are more prevalent using High Tensile wire as your pulling the wire to twice the tension of Mild Steel.
The termination knot (as seen in my pics above) is used to help alleviate these problems. The pull of the wires is moved from the side to along the side of the strut and also if you tie the knot correctly you. avoid the stress point in the wire which makes it liable to break.
You don't need t-clips (although handy on horse nett and preferable to hard stapling). You also don't need a wire twister as it can be done just as easy with the wire itself, look up the Strainrite video of a termination knot on U Tube.
as for 30m runs, there never that easy to get high tensile tight. but it is possible.
Is it the right way? No, but sure plenty of people will say they have done it that way for 30+ years and never had a problem. The trouble is your putting all of the tension on to the side of the strainer which is acting as a twisting force and trying to rotate the strainer in the ground which will slacken the wire as it moves. Hard stapling also affects the strength of the wire which can (and will) break at the point where the staple has pinched it hard leading to broken wires in the future.These problems are more prevalent using High Tensile wire as your pulling the wire to twice the tension of Mild Steel.
The termination knot (as seen in my pics above) is used to help alleviate these problems. The pull of the wires is moved from the side to along the side of the strut and also if you tie the knot correctly you. avoid the stress point in the wire which makes it liable to break.
You don't need t-clips (although handy on horse nett and preferable to hard stapling). You also don't need a wire twister as it can be done just as easy with the wire itself, look up the Strainrite video of a termination knot on U Tube.
as for 30m runs, there never that easy to get high tensile tight. but it is possible.
Willie adie
Member
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
How do you pros make a neat hole in a strainer for the stay?
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Chisel
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
Local dealer has a wrag post chapper in stock with a 200kg weight. Would this be any good at putting in 8 foot pointed strainers? Clay soil can be hard in places. I ve always had at least 300kg needed in my head
Willie adie
Member
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Has it a spike? It would put them in but would take time.
Willie adie
Member
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
A small chainsaw with carving bar
Dave6170
Member
- Location
- Watten, caithness
No spike. Theres £550 difference between the 200kg in stock and a 300kg that would have to be ordered.
Willie adie
Member
- Location
- Aberdeenshire
Its working out the extra cost of heavier hammer. To the amount of use you would give it.
If you have the lighter one you might need the heavier weight,
So is it better to spend the extra and not wish you had
If you have the lighter one you might need the heavier weight,
So is it better to spend the extra and not wish you had
exmoor dave
Member
- Location
- exmoor, uk
Bit of rabbit netting on to existing stock fence.
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
ours has a 300kg (or 350kg, can't remember now) and i'm putting in 6" round 8' pointed posts at the moment on hard clay. With a pre-augering of 100mm down to 700mm deep i managed to get the post in 1040mm before it stopped budging.
(apologise for mixed units)
Smudge
Member
- Location
- Pembrokeshire
@Greenbeast is that hand auger or machine?
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Petrol. £150, well worth it.
Also dig my strut/stay holes with it.
And my 'dug in' gate posts
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
I'm no pro by any stretch but i saw this done on youtube and have started doing it myself now, bit more work than a simple flat cut in but i don't have a petrol saw any more, only a corded one so i might as well do it this way
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
Been fencing the last two evenings till 10pm, my tying off is getting better except when i don't leave enough space, but i think i'm going to stump up for more gripple tees next time!!!
Pictures to come....
Pictures to come....
Greenbeast
Member
- Location
- East Sussex
My best attempt yet and i have improvements to make next time. My netting is not properly taught unfortunately, but is sufficient.
I've been offered the loan of a gripple tool, so the next lot will be done with gripples
I've been offered the loan of a gripple tool, so the next lot will be done with gripples
- Location
- North Wales
Do you want any constructive criticism?My best attempt yet and i have improvements to make next time. My netting is not properly taught unfortunately, but is sufficient.
I've been offered the loan of a gripple tool, so the next lot will be done with gripples