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What width have you made your spacers? And have you still got those stupid shims in there?Don't know if this is any interest to anyone on here, have just made this up and it might give others some ideas how to do a 90/91
Yep still got one of them stupid shims in on the left of the leg the other spacer's are 1" 1/2" and two 1/4" ones, kept the Ransome's one to the left of the leg to keep it in its original position probably will not make any difference thoughWhat width have you made your spacers? And have you still got those stupid shims in there?
No such thing as a "stupid shim"! My plough has quite a few bits of sheet tin in places to get things to line up.
One thing you need to check on that straight beam plough you have. The furrow beam has a tendency to pull down, if it has, it renders the pitch measurement meaning less. To complicate matters, you cant turn the beam over, the holes are not in the middle, so its off to a man with a press. they do press straight with no trouble though.[/QUOT thanks Harry i will have to check that out, hope it's not bent as it is a big old lump to move about
He who dares wins Rodder'sHope you're taking this all the above chap. Sounds pretty dangerous to me, this chopping ploughs about, no telling what damage you might have done!!!!
That was always my biggest fear with my match plough - took me a couple of years to pluck up the courage but it turns out I was a lot fussier with my measuring tape than mr KV was - I had loads of 'shims' in mine to get the bugger running straight and true.Hope you're taking this in, all the above chap. Sounds pretty dangerous to me, this chopping ploughs about, no telling what damage you might have done!!!!
Just a check on the end plates on the tube section will send you to the machine shop, and the bolt holes are so oversize they must been able to have stood back and thrown the bolts in!That was always my biggest fear with my match plough - took me a couple of years to pluck up the courage but it turns out I was a lot fussier with my measuring tape than mr KV was - I had loads of 'shims' in mine to get the bugger running straight and true.
I have made/modified ploughs that don`t behave like that. Is that KV or you Harry?If I slacken the bolts holding the headstock the the frame bridge piece, I can move the top link fitting about two inches, either side of central!
KV making sure you don't strip the threads on the bolts with oversize holes!If I slacken the bolts holding the headstock the the frame bridge piece, I can move the top link fitting about two inches, either side of central!
it does not want to be central anywayIf I slacken the bolts holding the headstock the the frame bridge piece, I can move the top link fitting about two inches, either side of central!
Agreed John. It depends on furrow width, wheel settings and so on. When I play with Ransomes TS59s my disciplines are vintage and therefore 10" furrows. The original manufacturer built a plough which was a compromise and almost suited 10" or 12" but neither. It was a commercial plough with no frills and sort of worked well. We, as match ploughmen, have moved on from there much to the disgust of some so called purists.it does not want to be central anyway
That is right Bob and is probably the reason David Bonning and and Ransome's done the TS 97Ransomes only made one plough that was particularly suited to match ploughing and their space frame models 90/100 series were just about as far removed as you could find. You either use them semi commercially, extensively modify them or scrap them. Something for the allotment holders, enthusiasts or the Chinese perhaps.
If I slacken the bolts holding the headstock the the frame bridge piece, I can move the top link fitting about two inches, either side of central!