alomy75
Member
Hmmm 320 could be a bit wide…unless you put a wider coulter on; but imo you already have the best type - super narrow, drainage beneath seed and easy seed coverage.
Weaving sabre tine user thread
- Thread starter Bob lincs
- Start date
- Location
- Left in the middle of nowhere
Moving the leg in front of the shear bolt has solved our problem with straw. To be fair a lot of the tines will need replacing before next year but this position has given us the depth we’ve needed whilst being able to lift the following harrow out of the way (it’s just tickling the surface & doing a good job now). All the barley is at 3-5 cms, still with a drainage slot beneath it.
Attachments
- Location
- North Norfolk
We have moved from Weaving legs to Metcalfe, which gives a bit more rake. We find the Metcalfe tubes last more than twice as long as the Weaving stainless ones. Also the Metcalfe points can be changed without scrapping the whole leg. They are more expensive, but more economical in the long run. The downside is that they are marginally wider.
- Location
- Left in the middle of nowhere
Has it taken a bit more pulling with Metcalfe legs? I suspect they're better for drilling large samples of beans?
- Location
- North Norfolk
If anything, it takes less pulling. We had no issues with Tundra bean seed through Weaving tubes, but that was last year's seed which might have been small.
- Location
- Chipping norton
Found them much better for beans like that too, I have taken the harrows off but still covering beans well
alomy75
Member
How much do you run in the ground? I think when I’ve worn my first set out I’m going to go for longer tips to try and keep the tip holder out of the soil
- Location
- North Norfolk
We have a set of longer tips for beans, but did not find we needed them. The wear is absolutely minimal compared to the Weaving ones.
- Location
- North Yorkshire
Has anyone swapped the rubber sausages to the triangular shaped rubbers? I was quite surprised how far back they had settled but it was only obvious after resetting 1 leg.
Do you find a more forward leg position cuts through trash better rather than a swept back position? Trash flow has been a royal pain in the backside this year
Do you find a more forward leg position cuts through trash better rather than a swept back position? Trash flow has been a royal pain in the backside this year
- Location
- Chipping norton
Forward position made a huge difference, got our legs infront of the bolt in the back hole. Ran them like that in chopped wheat straw and poorly spread bean trash
Swapped from the triangle rubbers, round ones seem to be the better of the two
alomy75
Member
Triangular rubbers are the early useless ones. I understand they’ve been replaced by round ones now.
- Location
- North Yorkshire
I was hoping the triangular rubber would solve the problem as it’s already in the squashed shape that the sausage tries to form
i used nylon rod inserts on my home-made Saber tine drill, I cut a small section of the triangle rubber off on each rubber so 4 per leg and inserted the 4 nylon rode sections in what I class is the pressure side this has improved things a lot,
the nylon stops the rubber from trying to creep around the box section and gives a larger area for the rubber to push against. its critical the nylon is bigger than any gap between the bracket and frame. ideally you could go triangular. i found taping the nylon to the rubber helped with install, I cut the rubber on a bandsaw.
on mine it also stops the rubber creeping over the frame's corners.
while not perfect because the rubber is elongating like toothpaste from a tube, so the high pressure legs the rubber is now letting them down.
see the green in the image below for a possible solution trap the rubber better but allow for movement.
I plan to restrict the rubber there are a few ways to go, bolts and plates that push the rubber back into the bracket, this could be as simple as drilling a hole through the rubber and making some washers from plate steel and squishing the rubber back up with a long bolt through the rubber.
handmade or laser cut ones I would have to prototype first. again in green.
other solutions include cutting the rubber a little in length and welding the green to the bracket, but this is not as simple for the sides the bracket halves meet. you either go weld to one half or 2 half green plates one on each half. then pre fit the rubber with glue into the brackets, before install.
i am also considering not doing the above but fitting the likes of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154192592366?hash=item23e6983dee:g:W6wAAOSwqa5hqIKq
discs that balance the legs on the bracket so if the leg wants to push back, it forces the disc down into the ground which it will resist so create a see saw effect with the bonus of discs cutting trash just in front of the leg.
ideally the discs leg would mount to the bolts on the bracket for the leg and maybe the bolts the leg uses to fix to the bracket. so they are removable,
mine has 18 legs so £800 for discs and bearings then its just the cost of the bracket to mount the disc, my guess is it will be at lease two bits welded up and bent to get the offset needed to get the disc running inline with the leg. onesite laser can cut and bend 15mm plate steel to order so it's possible.
the further forward you push the disc the more ability you get to offset the push back on the leg
the nylon stops the rubber from trying to creep around the box section and gives a larger area for the rubber to push against. its critical the nylon is bigger than any gap between the bracket and frame. ideally you could go triangular. i found taping the nylon to the rubber helped with install, I cut the rubber on a bandsaw.
on mine it also stops the rubber creeping over the frame's corners.
while not perfect because the rubber is elongating like toothpaste from a tube, so the high pressure legs the rubber is now letting them down.
see the green in the image below for a possible solution trap the rubber better but allow for movement.
I plan to restrict the rubber there are a few ways to go, bolts and plates that push the rubber back into the bracket, this could be as simple as drilling a hole through the rubber and making some washers from plate steel and squishing the rubber back up with a long bolt through the rubber.
handmade or laser cut ones I would have to prototype first. again in green.
other solutions include cutting the rubber a little in length and welding the green to the bracket, but this is not as simple for the sides the bracket halves meet. you either go weld to one half or 2 half green plates one on each half. then pre fit the rubber with glue into the brackets, before install.
i am also considering not doing the above but fitting the likes of https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154192592366?hash=item23e6983dee:g:W6wAAOSwqa5hqIKq
discs that balance the legs on the bracket so if the leg wants to push back, it forces the disc down into the ground which it will resist so create a see saw effect with the bonus of discs cutting trash just in front of the leg.
ideally the discs leg would mount to the bolts on the bracket for the leg and maybe the bolts the leg uses to fix to the bracket. so they are removable,
mine has 18 legs so £800 for discs and bearings then its just the cost of the bracket to mount the disc, my guess is it will be at lease two bits welded up and bent to get the offset needed to get the disc running inline with the leg. onesite laser can cut and bend 15mm plate steel to order so it's possible.
the further forward you push the disc the more ability you get to offset the push back on the leg
Last edited:
- Location
- Left in the middle of nowhere
They do a harder one now - chase them upI was hoping the triangular rubber would solve the problem as it’s already in the squashed shape that the sausage tries to form
- Location
- Trent, Dorset
Has anyone welded hard facing on the side of the legs? We have a small amount of wear and wondered if we hard face the sides will they last longer? Tips please!!
one ferobide tile would cure that @Captain Slack
- Location
- Trent, Dorset
But one 5kg roll of hard facing mig wire is only £100 - how much is the ferobide tiles?
YELROM
Member
- Location
- North Yorkshire
This is what is on the side of the Metcalfe leg which I think are similar to a weaving leg
- Location
- North Norfolk
After changing from Sabre tines to Metcalfe legs, we find the points and tubes last twice as long.
I’ve been thinking of a claydon, but looking at the sabre tines they look much simpler and more versatile.
Couple of questions for the users.
1: Do you normally go min til or anyone go straight from ploughing to sabre into stubble?
2: Would a Jd6140r pull 4m or would 3m be better suited? (Wet hilly) ground. Usually plough with 5furrow for reference.
3: Do many use them into ploughed/cultivated land?
Couple of questions for the users.
1: Do you normally go min til or anyone go straight from ploughing to sabre into stubble?
2: Would a Jd6140r pull 4m or would 3m be better suited? (Wet hilly) ground. Usually plough with 5furrow for reference.
3: Do many use them into ploughed/cultivated land?