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YouTube channel Nicks farm, Claydon drill.

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
I was watching some of his drilling videos. I was surprised how much soil his drill was moving.

Is that normal for a Claydon?
Haven't seen the video, but it would depend how it's set up, my first year trying a claydon on some of my acreage here and I had the front ripper leg as deep as I could pull it, to create the deepest drainage channel and to remove any compaction, around 7 or 8 inches deep so yes this moved a heck of a lot of soil but I feel it was worth it, will go shallower every year now.
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
yes is the answer to the op. had a quick look at his video there of the 6 meter drill, if hes running the 7 inch A Share hes moving 126 inches of soil when they are new , then it comes down to depth after that and some one alot grey matter to work out the actual tonnage of soil moved, on the plus side you are breaking chemical layers that have a long half life .. moving a bit isnt the end of the world .
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
Haven't seen the video, but it would depend how it's set up, my first year trying a claydon on some of my acreage here and I had the front ripper leg as deep as I could pull it, to create the deepest drainage channel and to remove any compaction, around 7 or 8 inches deep so yes this moved a heck of a lot of soil but I feel it was worth it, will go shallower every year now.
[/QUOTE]
that leg on the claydon doesnt take compaction out, it might put a bit in but doesnt take it out , like you say it does create a very good drainage channel.
 

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Haven't seen the video, but it would depend how it's set up, my first year trying a claydon on some of my acreage here and I had the front ripper leg as deep as I could pull it, to create the deepest drainage channel and to remove any compaction, around 7 or 8 inches deep so yes this moved a heck of a lot of soil but I feel it was worth it, will go shallower every year now.
that leg on the claydon doesnt take compaction out, it might put a bit in but doesnt take it out , like you say it does create a very good drainage channel.
[/QUOTE]
My combine had caused surface compaction too about 3 inches with the front leg running 2 or 3 times deeper than this it was lifting the dirt lovely, so far we'll pleased with it.
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
that leg on the claydon doesnt take compaction out, it might put a bit in but doesnt take it out , like you say it does create a very good drainage channel.
My combine had caused surface compaction too about 3 inches with the front leg running 2 or 3 times deeper than this it was lifting the dirt lovely, so far we'll pleased with it.
[/QUOTE]
Plant roots would do a better job of alleviating compaction, I can't say I've ever seen the hybrid drill cure compaction problems. What the claydon will do is help give you better machine carrying capacity on the the parts where the leading leg hasn't ran.
 

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
My combine had caused surface compaction too about 3 inches with the front leg running 2 or 3 times deeper than this it was lifting the dirt lovely, so far we'll pleased with it.
Plant roots would do a better job of alleviating compaction, I can't say I've ever seen the hybrid drill cure compaction problems. What the claydon will do is help give you better machine carrying capacity on the the parts where the leading leg hasn't ran.
[/QUOTE]
Mines not a hybrid, what plants could I till between first and second wheat that would remove campaction in 3 to 4 weeks?
 

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
Although them claim the hybrid will also help against conpaction, ( screen shot front their website)
Screenshot_20201226_145138_com.android.chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20201226_145138_com.android.chrome.jpg
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
Plant roots would do a better job of alleviating compaction, I can't say I've ever seen the hybrid drill cure compaction problems. What the claydon will do is help give you better machine carrying capacity on the the parts where the leading leg hasn't ran.
Mines not a hybrid, what plants could I till between first and second wheat that would remove campaction in 3 to 4 weeks?
[/QUOTE]
Probably not a great deall in that short time period.2 Nd white winter straw crops are not the greatest idea with a claydon anyway.
 

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
They can claim what they want on there website doesn't make it right.

Those waring parts costs are also a lot higher in my experience too.
Yeah what would I known, having used first about ten years ago and now own one, do share your experience then? Don't forget to tell me which plants.
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
Yeah what would I known, having used first about ten years ago and now own one, do share your experience then? Don't forget to tell me which plants.
as ive said above in that short time frame not a great deal. and its not a good idea to grow 2nd wheats in a mintill situation with a claydon if you dont want grassweeds to be a problem.

you still havent told be how a claydon can take out lateral compaction layers when those legs are an inch wide a 33 cm spacings it just doesnt work like that, the ablades for wheat arent down that deep simple as that.

what expericnce would you like from 6 seasons of using one spring and autumn ?
 

fieldfarmer

Member
Mixed Farmer
as ive said above in that short time frame not a great deal. and its not a good idea to grow 2nd wheats in a mintill situation with a claydon if you dont want grassweeds to be a problem.

you still havent told be how a claydon can take out lateral compaction layers when those legs are an inch wide a 33 cm spacings it just doesnt work like that, the ablades for wheat arent down that deep simple as that.

what expericnce would you like from 6 seasons of using one spring and autumn ?
So not a great deal or none? The depth and speed I pulled mine I had a shattering effect through the soil profile. Experience yes please, after that mainy years of continued use how shallow are you now able to run the front leg and do you think you can now swop to total no till?
 

juke

Member
Location
DURHAM
probably none in that time period from what i have used. we havent used the tine a great deal for cereals for the last 4 season been no need,to do so .we do use the tine for bean drilling as the stress put on the c tines really needs all the help it can get by opening up the drainage channel , used discs instead. and yes the land is capable of going into no till now .. i am in no way knocking the claydon drill its the best of the strip drills and certainly the most modular design,
 

Brisel

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Midlands
The leading tine will break through a tight layer shallower than its depth but unless you have a high stone content it won’t lift it all. What it does is create a good drainage and root channel and the worms you haven’t killed with steel and plant roots will do the rest for you. A Claydon certainly is not a subsoiler and if you have a plough pan that needs cracking then it certainly needs a proper tool to fix that.
 

farmerfred86

Member
BASIS
Location
Suffolk
I was watching some of his drilling videos. I was surprised how much soil his drill was moving.

Is that normal for a Claydon?

His videos are very good, he puts a lot of work into them. If he's on the forum then well done! (found them as my 2yr old can't get enough of these videos!)

His videos do show a lot of soil movement but thats really what claydon drills are. They do not need to be run deep at all. If you have compaction issues that need dealing with then you need to sort it but not with a very deep claydon front tine! The drainage channel as suggested above is the real winner here.
If you run deep you will only encourage black grass pressure too.
 

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On Thursday 26th September, we’re holding a webinar for farmers to go through the guidance, actions and detail for the expanded Sustainable Farming Incentive (SFI) offer. This was planned for end of May, but had to be delayed due to the general election. We apologise about that.

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