6630 Engine oil

[davidroberts30]

I know, anyone would think I’m on commission (I wish), it’s just I’ve just seen a lot of engines in a sorry state over the years through people trying to save a couple of quid on a 500h service interval. Is it really worth it?

Looking outside the box here but to me it seems mainly jd going down with the head gaskets ,and rebuilds at 6k
I mean even If it only had 2 or 3 oil changes it should still get past 6k hours

 

[Phil P]

Looking outside the box here but to me it seems mainly jd going down with the head gaskets ,and rebuilds at 6k
I mean even If it only had 2 or 3 oil changes it should still get past 6k hours

Head gaskets is a known jd issue but look at the 66 bottom end, once the hg is done that engine will run for a long time without any bottom end problems. The same couldn’t be said of the 68 if that had just come in for the hg! There’s no way that the 68 should be showing so much ware at them hours.

I’ve not done it yet but out of interest I may gap test the rings just see if they’re still in spec.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Furry snuff. Let’s dwell on the positive then.

So who’s brewing JDs own good oil these days?

Shell supplying oil to John Deere dealers at present.

 

[davidroberts30]

Head gaskets is a known jd issue but look at the 66 bottom end, once the hg is done that engine will run for a long time without any bottom end problems. The same couldn’t be said of the 68 if that had just come in for the hg! There’s no way that the 68 should be showing so much ware at them hours.

I’ve not done it yet but out of interest I may gap test the rings just see if they’re still in spec.

I get the 66 thing
Honestly either the guy with the 68 ran the crappest oil you can buy or it was never changed no matter what he tells you

Where i used to work was jd through and through (still is)complete with green injections
Had a 6800 there engine had 2 head gaskets in 22k hours and she was 150 on the shaft,I didn't see the first time but the second gasket at around 11k the bores looked like your 66 picture above
She had a oil change every 250 with fuch oil (don't ask me the spec)

Also had a 3650 there and that 1 had hg at 3k and was on 17.5k hours when I left

 

[Phil P]

I get the 66 thing
Honestly either the guy with the 68 ran the crappest oil you can buy or it was never changed no matter what he tells you

Where i used to work was jd through and through (still is)complete with green injections
Had a 6800 there engine had 2 head gaskets in 22k hours and she was 150 on the shaft,I didn't see the first time but the second gasket at around 11k the bores looked like your 66 picture above
She had a oil change every 250 with fuch oil (don't ask me the spec)

Also had a 3650 there and that 1 had hg at 3k and was on 17.5k hours when I left

That’s the difference though, the older stuff was changed every 250 hours and wasn’t running egr and hpcr Injectin and expecting the oil to last 500h between services. I’m sure there are some very good oils out there, personally I just think it’s a gamble trying to find the right one for the price difference!

Perhaps it’s just me but I don’t see spending £100 extra to get the specified oil as a massive cost difference over the life of the tractor.

 

[feilding]

I'd still believe engine oils should be changed at 250hrs and use quality oil on any make, modern or older engines. Always will be cheaper than a engine rebuild.

 

[john432]

Problem is that with human nature, a 500hr oil interval can become 600 hrs or more.... and that is a big ask for any oil, but not impossible. Local store for example is advertising cans of Morriss oil, but when I searched the spec, it was very low! So my thinking is... use the recomended oil such as the John Deere plus50+ , or if you can do the research for yourself you can find a higher spec oil for probably half the price...

 

[jd6820]

Got to agree with Phil P, genuine filters and oil eliminates any guesswork or matching specs. By the time you’ve got a good deal on the oil and filters you ain’t much dearer and sometimes cheaper using genuine. Plus supporting the dealer has got to be a positive surely?? I try and fit genuine filters where possible, although on older machines they can be obselete so the nearest quality alternative is utilised.

 

[Robert K]

Got some Plus 50 and hyguard and filters left over from our John Deere

Filters are brand new boxed

 

[ollie989898]

I don't see that supporting your dealer when buying oil and consumables is necessary, but certainly I would use the engine oil required by the manufacturer. I know in the car world a lot of manufacturers recommend a particular company for lubricants but I bet very few cars are running on that all their lives.

That 6830 photo is scary, has the engine been ingesting dust or something?

 

[tepapa]

Thought I’d post these pics as I think they’re totally relevant to this subject, both tractors are currently in my workshop (6630 headgasket, 6830 engine rebuild) both around the 6000h mark. One has been run all it’s life on jd oil, the other according to the customer has been run on a equivalent if not higher spec oil.


6630 run on jd Plus 50 ii
View attachment 765180

6830 run on “equivalent oil”
View attachment 765182

Neither tractors have ever been “chipped”

Thought it as good a comparison as I’ll ever be able to give.

Thanks.

For us mere shepherds could you explain what were looking at regarding the scoring of the bores.

 

[ollie989898]

For us mere shepherds could you explain what were looking at regarding the scoring of the bores.

Both tractors have done the same approximate hours, one still has the factory cross hatching left on the bore of the liners. The other has worn them away nearly completely, and they have been scoring up and down the length of the liner.

Something has not been right with the second engine, Phil P has suggested the engine oil was not as good as that specified by JD.

 

[Phil P]

For us mere shepherds could you explain what were looking at regarding the scoring of the bores.

As @ollie989898 says the amount of ware on the bores it the second picture is just horrific for the hours! The thing is that the cross hatching is there for a very inpatient reason.
It retains a very small amount of oil in the groves so as the pistons slides over the face of the bore it’s lubricated and actually running on a film of oil. The oil control ring removes 99.9% as the piston travels down but a tiny tiny bit stays in the grooves and lubricates and helps to seal the compression rings.
If the oil doesn’t have the correct properties to stick in those groves and also clean them then the rings start to ware into the liner, trouble is it’s then a vicious circle. The more it wares the less grooves so less lubrication so more ware, and so on!

Hope I’ve not lost you there and that makes sense?

 

[Phil P]

I don't see that supporting your dealer when buying oil and consumables is necessary, but certainly I would use the engine oil required by the manufacturer. I know in the car world a lot of manufacturers recommend a particular company for lubricants but I bet very few cars are running on that all their lives.

That 6830 photo is scary, has the engine been ingesting dust or something?

All the are filters where in place and in reasonable condition (I’ve seen a lot worse), the amount of ware in the bores is just frightening though . There’s actually a step at the top of the bore, it was a pig to get the pistons out!

 

[nelson]

All the are filters where in place and in reasonable condition (I’ve seen a lot worse), the amount of ware in the bores is just frightening though . There’s actually a step at the top of the bore, it was a pig to get the pistons out!

are the little ones keeping you up by any chance

 

[Phil P]

are the little ones keeping you up by any chance

I just don’t even bother going to bed these days

 

[davidroberts30]

I just don’t even bother going to bed these days

big job on the 68

 

[njneer]

Problem is that with human nature, a 500hr oil interval can become 600 hrs or more.... and that is a big ask for any oil, but not impossible. Local store for example is advertising cans of Morriss oil, but when I searched the spec, it was very low! So my thinking is... use the recomended oil such as the John Deere plus50+ , or if you can do the research for yourself you can find a higher spec oil for probably half the price...

Makes you wonder why manufacturers are now trying to stretch service intervals to 750 hours now . Clearly to artificially reduce the perceived cost of ownership but 750 hours is a long time to run your engine oil imo .

 

[davidroberts30]

Makes you wonder why manufacturers are now trying to stretch service intervals to 750 hours now . Clearly to artificially reduce the perceived cost of ownership but 750 hours is a long time to run your engine oil imo .

stupid imo

mrs bmw is about 18k for a oil service,oil was black as ink when it went in for first service 2 weeks ago and was very dark straight after the change
between egr and extended intervals i think manufacturers are killing engines

 

[nick...]

My tractors all get done at 200 hours using new Holland top spec engine oil.digger at 100 hours.oil is cheap,as are filters.
Nick...