7530 engine rebuild and improvements :-)

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
Hi all, had a interesting read through all the post you guys have put on over the last few years, I found myself here as I am currently experiencing a fault with a John Deere 7430
After 2-3 hours of running the engine starts to pulse/serve, it almost sounds like a misfire then eventually starts to throw out a lot of white ish smoke but doesn't seem to be using coolent/ I spoke to a JD dealership and they pointed me to change the SCV to start with, I replaced with a denso part to save on cost of dealer price but it hasn't made any difference just wondering if anyone may be able to help me out

Thanks Ash
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
How’s a spool valve going to affect the engine?

SCV - suction control valve.

Questions to the op - is it always 2 - 3hrs of work ? Does it stay misfiring or come n go? If you stop & restart does it begin misfiring again straight away or need some time ??

And what, if any fault codes do you get?
 
Last edited:

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
SCV - suction control valve.

Questions to the op - is it always 2 - 3hrs of work ? Does it stay misfiring or come n go? If you stop & restart does it begin misfiring again straight away or need some time ??

And what, if any fault codes do you get?


on average yes its around the 2-3 hours of working not even heavy work just general road work, seem to find that if you turn it off and let it rest for an hour or so and re start it, it takes a bit of turning over but eventually starts up running rough and throwing white smoke out but will clear then seams to run fine for another few hours
its almost like the engine is choking its self out

no fault codes appear on the display
 
on average yes its around the 2-3 hours of working not even heavy work just general road work, seem to find that if you turn it off and let it rest for an hour or so and re start it, it takes a bit of turning over but eventually starts up running rough and throwing white smoke out but will clear then seams to run fine for another few hours
its almost like the engine is choking its self out

no fault codes appear on the display

Try it with the fuel tank cap loose/off
 

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
Egr cooler leaking?
I haven't taken any parts off the tractor yet to see the state of the components, if it was would it only become noticeable after a few hours? or should be be smoking nearly all time? plus it doesn't seem to be using coolant or very little if it is
 

Rs chunk

Member
on average yes its around the 2-3 hours of working not even heavy work just general road work, seem to find that if you turn it off and let it rest for an hour or so and re start it, it takes a bit of turning over but eventually starts up running rough and throwing white smoke out but will clear then seams to run fine for another few hours
its almost like the engine is choking its self out

no fault codes appear on the display
Have you had injectors ever changed or refurbed? Had too get them changed on our 6930 but it was throwing up a code as there was too much fuel returning too the tank and rail pressure was dropping
 

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
I’ve only owned the tractor for about a year now, I bought it with around 6500 and it now has 7500 on it, I’ve not put any injectors in it whilst I’ve had it, it’s not throwing any codes up, not even when it’s starts playing up. It’s almost as though one is overfueling and eventually it chokes up
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
I’ve only owned the tractor for about a year now, I bought it with around 6500 and it now has 7500 on it, I’ve not put any injectors in it whilst I’ve had it, it’s not throwing any codes up, not even when it’s starts playing up. It’s almost as though one is overfueling and eventually it chokes up

Right, start with the basics:

Ensure the electric fuel pump inside the chassis rail is running and **actually pumping** a good quantity of fuel at all times with ignition on.
Replace both fuel filters and **replace the o ring** at the bottom of the water separator.
Replace **ALL** the braided fuel lines right back to the tank with some quality R6 lines ensuring none are kinked or trapped/ squashed.
Check the tank breather and try running with cap loose as someone said.

Is it using coolant at all?
Check the rail pressure sensor connector and carefully tighten up the pins if it appears loose (but this is unlikely your issue)

After that point get it code read. Ideally I'd want to see some live data before and during the misfiring to verify any electronic / electrical issues. If you had a fuel delivery issue, you' be getting rail pressure deviation codes, but all the above needs ruling out before you get out the parts canon and start firing injectors etc at it. Aerated fuel or lack of primary fuel pressure can do all manner of strange things on a common rail engine.

I'd also want to check the Crank and Cam sensor signals during the misfires to make sure the computer still sees them as synchronised- since the white smoke would indicate the timing is out across all cylinders not just one. All 6 injectors do not go faulty at once.

Can you identifiy any driving scanario that will always bring the misfiring on ?

Dry joints on the PCM are not unheard of on this engine, and would manifest itself after a good long period of running as it gets heat soaked. IF this is the case, an aerosol of freeze spray to chill the PCM would instantly restore normal running til it heated up again- try that too.
 

Timbo

Member
Location
Gods County
Have you had injectors ever changed or refurbed? Had too get them changed on our 6930 but it was throwing up a code as there was too much fuel returning too the tank and rail pressure was dropping

OP says he has no rail pressure deviation codes, which would be the orange warning and message on the C/centre for this code.
 

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
Right, start with the basics:

Ensure the electric fuel pump inside the chassis rail is running and **actually pumping** a good quantity of fuel at all times with ignition on.
Replace both fuel filters and **replace the o ring** at the bottom of the water separator.
Replace **ALL** the braided fuel lines right back to the tank with some quality R6 lines ensuring none are kinked or trapped/ squashed.
Check the tank breather and try running with cap loose as someone said.

Is it using coolant at all?
Check the rail pressure sensor connector and carefully tighten up the pins if it appears loose (but this is unlikely your issue)

After that point get it code read. Ideally I'd want to see some live data before and during the misfiring to verify any electronic / electrical issues. If you had a fuel delivery issue, you' be getting rail pressure deviation codes, but all the above needs ruling out before you get out the parts canon and start firing injectors etc at it. Aerated fuel or lack of primary fuel pressure can do all manner of strange things on a common rail engine.

I'd also want to check the Crank and Cam sensor signals during the misfires to make sure the computer still sees them as synchronised- since the white smoke would indicate the timing is out across all cylinders not just one. All 6 injectors do not go faulty at once.

Can you identifiy any driving scanario that will always bring the misfiring on ?

Dry joints on the PCM are not unheard of on this engine, and would manifest itself after a good long period of running as it gets heat soaked. IF this is the case, an aerosol of freeze spray to chill the PCM would instantly restore normal running til it heated up again- try that too.
It doest seem to be using coolant or very little if so however I got round to taking the pipe off the end of the egr cooler today and it wasn't blocked up and you could see the fins clear enough, granted abit black but nothing gungie, the was a slight bit of dampness in the Botton and in the pipe removed that did smell of coolant

I was also informed by the local dealer to measure the flow from the injector return pipe down near the fuel pump and was told there shouldn't be any more than 100ml over 60 seconds and it put out 135ml so not sky high but still more than specs of a dealer, if that helps to anyones knowledge, as stated surly it would put up a code if it was returning too much and a loss of pressure in rail
they also said they would put it onto live data and see if any injectors are playing up once the fault had occurred

it doesn't seem to matter which job it is doing it just starts playing up after a few hours, where about is the PCM found on this engine?
 

A sykes

Member
Arable Farmer
BAF2217F-76B7-4EA2-AA8C-A665666812F6.jpeg

here is the best picture I managed to take of the EGR
 

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