davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
achem,,,,isnt that what I saidAhem!!!! Is that not exactly the same as I said?
achem,,,,isnt that what I saidAhem!!!! Is that not exactly the same as I said?
Not too sure about sleeves, I feel they will be stress raisers at the dia change, and you often find breaks right on the edge of stiffening plates for this reason.
NopeAhem!!!! Is that not exactly the same as I said?
If its a decent weld, it should be stronger that the parent metal. The initial fault seems to be a crack in line with the hook, then some stress build up through the rest of the metal. Direction is front to back, so is the block swinging about, and coming to sudden halts? One snag is we dont know what the original material was, bit of black bar, or a nice piece of bright.Good point, just the original diameter seems small to rely on even with a full weld. Especially if its getting side stress from the arms not being over tight on the check chains.
Nopeachem,,,,isnt that what I said
Still looking at the options. Hoping to use materials I have in stock and also considering how much time I have. Was hoping for a quick bodge until I get time to sort it properly or make a new one. Thanks.old oil drum, cut hole in it stick a bar through to fit the lower link arms and a lynch pin though it or similar, then fill it up with concrete and rubble.
you could even smash the old block up and use that as rubble although it probably not worth the time/effort, a bit like its not worth the effort fixing your old block when making a new one is easier.
Good point, just the original diameter seems small to rely on even with a full weld. Especially if its getting side stress from the arms not being over tight on the check chains.
Doesn't get much side stress but it has swung front to back and come to sudden halts a lot. The bar is about an inch diameter, maybe a bit less. I vaguely remember my Dad saying it was like cast iron to weld when he repaired the other hook. Like I said earlier, he's not an expert welder. He was a plater by trade in the coal mining industry so just made things up and tacked them together ready for the welders.If its a decent weld, it should be stronger that the parent metal. The initial fault seems to be a crack in line with the hook, then some stress build up through the rest of the metal. Direction is front to back, so is the block swinging about, and coming to sudden halts? One snag is we dont know what the original material was, bit of black bar, or a nice piece of bright.
Did it really take 49 posts before someone stated the obvious???It's TFF land............buy a bigger tractor.....
Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..Did it really take 49 posts before someone stated the obvious???
Come on chaps, you're all slacking.
Thats what I was thinking of! Mind you, the for and aft movement must be stopped, that what is putting a bending moment on the hooks.Thinking about it, maybe two straps around the concrete (box it in) from 50mm x 10mm mild steel would be best?
Then you can mount new hooks on the frame?
Only a suggestion mind ........
Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..
I've always been told "Neither a borrower nor lender be."Do you want to lend me the money? Weight is used on an MF290. Steering and traction is a lot more difficult without it..
Or just stick a chain round the broken side But that’s more suited to the bodging thread