Haybob 360's. Are they that bad?

balerman

Member
Location
N Devon
Reading through,a lot of the replies refer to a standard Haybob,a 360 is a totally different machine albeit with a lot of common parts.Teds the same as a standard one,but for rowing up it is better than a single rotor rake,follows the ground better and leaves a fluffier less lumpy row.Tried ours to move a row of straw,and its not very successful.
 
Reading through,a lot of the replies refer to a standard Haybob,a 360 is a totally different machine albeit with a lot of common parts.Teds the same as a standard one,but for rowing up it is better than a single rotor rake,follows the ground better and leaves a fluffier less lumpy row.Tried ours to move a row of straw,and its not very successful.
All good farmers have both:ROFLMAO:
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Reading through,a lot of the replies refer to a standard Haybob,a 360 is a totally different machine albeit with a lot of common parts.Teds the same as a standard one,but for rowing up it is better than a single rotor rake,follows the ground better and leaves a fluffier less lumpy row.Tried ours to move a row of straw,and its not very successful.
Stupid question, I get a 360 rows to the side, but is it wider when tedding than an ordinary haybob, ie 3.6m wide instead of 3m? @Gator? do they have bigger rotors?
 

Deutzdx3

Member
The rotors are larger on a 360 over a 300. Great machines. I have one here that I’m selling as upgraded to a 4.5m single rake. Great machines.
 

Selectamatic

Member
Location
North Wales
Well, I stared this thread two years ago, and by now I am on my second season of Haybob 360 action, and I love it! Just the tool for what I want!

My only gripe, and perhaps its me being hard of thinking...

When you row the headland, turning left, as you do with every haybob is fine, but when you come to throw another on top of it and you run back in the opposite direction, turing right sounds and feels nasty. What's the cure for this?

:)
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Well, I stared this thread two years ago, and by now I am on my second season of Haybob 360 action, and I love it! Just the tool for what I want!

My only gripe, and perhaps its me being hard of thinking...

When you row the headland, turning left, as you do with every haybob is fine, but when you come to throw another on top of it and you run back in the opposite direction, turing right sounds and feels nasty. What's the cure for this?

:)
Is it wider when tedding or not? correpondents above don't agree?
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Well, I stared this thread two years ago, and by now I am on my second season of Haybob 360 action, and I love it! Just the tool for what I want!

My only gripe, and perhaps its me being hard of thinking...

When you row the headland, turning left, as you do with every haybob is fine, but when you come to throw another on top of it and you run back in the opposite direction, turing right sounds and feels nasty. What's the cure for this?

:)
would be a bit wrong to slacken and leave linkage stabilsers sloppy i gues what about a radical mod .....alter the wheels to swivel freely by welding a some sort of sleave /stopper on the wheel leg ... only thing is it wont be adjustable anymore ....

that if the wheels set up is the same as on the ordinary haybob. :unsure:
 

essexpete

Member
Location
Essex
Can someone (and I have asked before) suggest why, when rowing up, my old machine sometime throws a small amount of material over the back between the rotors rather than passing on to the second. It is not a lot of material by any means but it looks scruffy. Changing forward speed and rotor speed does seem to make much difference.
 

Selectamatic

Member
Location
North Wales
would be a bit wrong to slacken and leave linkage stabilsers sloppy i gues what about a radical mod .....alter the wheels to swivel freely by welding a some sort of sleave /stopper on the wheel leg ... only thing is it wont be adjustable anymore ....

that if the wheels set up is the same as on the ordinary haybob. :unsure:

Fair enough, but surely it should do this as standard?
 

Selectamatic

Member
Location
North Wales
Can someone (and I have asked before) suggest why, when rowing up, my old machine sometime throws a small amount of material over the back between the rotors rather than passing on to the second. It is not a lot of material by any means but it looks scruffy. Changing forward speed and rotor speed does seem to make much difference.

Mine does not do this other than when the crop is really light and it will throw a whisp through.

It used to do this, but I found the problem out to be that someone had put standard haybob tines on in stead of it's own tines, 300 v's 360 tines are ever so slightly different in design, but wildly different in price!
 

Bury the Trash

Member
Mixed Farmer
Fair enough, but surely it should do this as standard?
Yep true..

almost want a break back arm on both sides instead of just one but trouble is if there is too much movement the whole machine will be weaving all over the shop and tracking downhill when used on the side of the hill


the wider tyres ie smoother multirib instead of like the old 'sharp' three rib will help it slip around ?give abit tho
 

balerman

Member
Location
N Devon
Ah well that might be my problem. Do both rotors have 360 specific tines? I have never grasped why you have a wide and narrow either.
It is only the yellow spot tines (offside) that are different,you can easily modify them yourself if you have a pattern one,they have an extra very small bend in them.Blue spot ones are standard items.
 

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