Homade hydraulic toplink

[davieh3350]

As said above I think a check valve is important and easy to fit if you decide to make one yourself. Not only will it be safer but it will stop it creeping when in work

a check valve wouldn't stop creeping, they stop sudden flows of oil (pilot operated ones might be different) An on/off valve in the line would stop oil flowing once you had it set.

 

[multi power]

All the top links I have looked at the check valves were not included, so I assume they are not required for basic use. @multipower Did yours have check valves?

No check valve on mine

 

[milkloss]

I'll see if there's still a sticker on mine, I should know what brand it is but I do not
Give me 5 minutes to walk over to the shed

You’re like me, nearly four hours later......... b4gger, I knew I was supposed to do something!

 

[Nearly]

It's the best use for top liks with siezed threads. Cut the eyes off and weld to ram.
I have one 'proper' hyd top link for plough and fert spreader etc.
I made 3 for other rear implements and a couple of shorter ones for front linkage.
All using rams from 'stock' and used ends.
The winters are long around here.

 

[exmoor dave]

There was a great homemade hyd toplink in PFI few years ago,
Using two rams, so you got double the stroke for basically the same closed length

 

[Nearly]

There was a great homemade hyd toplink in PFI few years ago,
Using two rams, so you got double the stroke for basically the same closed length

I saved all the pics. It was on here too.

 

[sawdust]

I'll see if there's still a sticker on mine, I should know what brand it is but I do not
Give me 5 minutes to walk over to the shed

Has your watch stopped...

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Has your watch stopped...

Fire siren went off
- I should learn not to promise stuff

...it's an old motus one.

But I would try farmbits.co.nz, bareco agspares, or partsdirect if I were shopping, you'd get a link for about $350 or build one up for about the same money if you have a cylinder, @JackoTS90 .

If you had to buy all the hoses fittings and ends it's cheaper to buy one readymade, so it depends how big your pile of treasure is

 

[JackoTS90]

Thanks. Motus do have good stuff, very dear

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Thanks. Motus do have good stuff, very dear

I think Adam had my one on his first plough I am about ready to cut the ends off and weld new ones on, as it's now very sloppy.
Dad had it to lift a Reid&Gray 2 furrow semi swamp trailed plough, when the cam finally wore out they just put this link on in place of it.
Then I inherited it.

The only fault I have with it is the cylinder end only just clears where I pin it to the tractor, so when I replace that end I'll give it a tad more clearance just so there's room.

It hasn't bound up but always looks like it could.

 

[JackoTS90]

I think Adam had my one on his first plough I am about ready to cut the ends off and weld new ones on, as it's now very sloppy.
Dad had it to lift a Reid&Gray 2 furrow semi swamp trailed plough, when the cam finally wore out they just put this link on in place of it.
Then I inherited it.

The only fault I have with it is the cylinder end only just clears where I pin it to the tractor, so when I replace that end I'll give it a tad more clearance just so there's room.

It hasn't bound up but always looks like it could.

Have you got a ‘knuckle’ I think they are called? It puts the pivot point out abit.

 

[Kiwi Pete]

View attachment 812332

Have you got a ‘knuckle’ I think they are called? It puts the pivot point out abit.

I think that will be the best solution. But I'll still need to cut off the worn ends and replace, as they are well flogged out.

Handy things when you need them, not too sure where you are based but it's funny rolly stuff down here, so using one on the mower helps prevent scalping, that's mainly what I use it for.

 

[JackoTS90]

I think that will be the best solution. But I'll still need to cut off the worn ends and replace, as they are well flogged out.

Handy things when you need them, not too sure where you are based but it's funny rolly stuff down here, so using one on the mower helps prevent scalping, that's mainly what I use it for.

Oh yep, we are in the wairarapa, dairy farm so mainly flat with some rolling to steep. Can get a tractor every where, so not too steep. One on the disc mower would help, because we have recently converted an add on block from bull finishing to dairy and had lots of small paddocks that we took out and moved fencelines, and the ridges are still there. Would be handy on grader blade and leveller also.
Do you think the cheap ones would last?

 

[Kiwi Pete]

Oh yep, we are in the wairarapa, dairy farm so mainly flat with some rolling to steep. Can get a tractor every where, so not too steep. One on the disc mower would help, because we have recently converted an add on block from bull finishing to dairy and had lots of small paddocks that we took out and moved fencelines, and the ridges are still there. Would be handy on grader blade and leveller also.
Do you think the cheap ones would last?

Yeah, this one is hardly industrial spec and handles that sort of duty just fine.
I think if you buy affordable stuff then you can afford to replace ends etc down the line - but if you pay through the nose and still have to replace the ends, then you get pee'd off!
So I don't tie heaps of money up in machinery, it's just as easy to put a bend in a $1000 ram as a $300 one

 

[etcetra]

https://agspares.co.nz/product/Hydraulic-Top-Link-Cat-2-Std-622-812mm-E4672

Todays exchange rate £1 = 1.93 NZD so works out around £158 not that much more expensive than here.

 

[JackoTS90]

Yeah, this one is hardly industrial spec and handles that sort of duty just fine.
I think if you buy affordable stuff then you can afford to replace ends etc down the line - but if you pay through the nose and still have to replace the ends, then you get pee'd off!
So I don't tie heaps of money up in machinery, it's just as easy to put a bend in a $1000 ram as a $300 one

Yep, just brought a seed drill for 1800, leveller for 600 and plough for 400, so stuff doesn’t have to be expensive to do the job, mind you the drill needs abit of work but isn’t seized, all is moving.

 

[JackoTS90]

Found a solution. Was endlessly looking on trade me and Facebook of one, and found this for $180 plus shipping. Hustler too, who make very good gear (in my experience anyway).

 

[JackoTS90]

What type of check valve will I need?
Will i need a pilot operated check valve or just a simple inline one? Their is an obvious price difference but was wondering what would suit my application?

 

[Mr Happy]

What type of check valve will I need?
Will i need a pilot operated check valve or just a simple inline one? Their is an obvious price difference but was wondering what would suit my application?

Pilot operated check valve, try and get the cylinder mounted type.

 

[JackoTS90]

Pilot operated check valve, try and get the cylinder mounted type.

Thanks, would the other type not work in this application? And why would you choose the pilot operated check valve?