Hydraulic ram dissasembly

[Jack-1]

The ram on the bucket on my loader is leaking so I decided to try to fix it. Of course, I can't get it apart. I made a spanner to remove the outer ring. The problem is there is a recessed ring that also needs to come out. It is recessed about 3/4 inches It also would use a spanner wrench. Making that wrench is a lot more difficult, so I would prefer to buy one. Can any one direct me to a supplier that would have such a thing? I will include a picture that gives an idea of the problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reading.
Jack-1

 

[milkloss]

Are you sure that won't just pop out? Would not think a pin spanner to remove that would be very strong anyway as it looks to be fair deep in there.

 

[Treemover]

Pull the rod out first; you can undo that once it’s out. You have the cap off so it should just slide out.

 

[Jack-1]

Pull the rod out first; you can undo that once it’s out. You have the cap off so it should just slide out.

Thanks for reading. It is a welded cylinder, yuu can't pull the rod out without unscrewing the seal assembly.

 

[Jack-1]

Are you sure that won't just pop out? Would not think a pin spanner to remove that would be very strong anyway as it looks to be fair deep in there.

Thanks for your reply. It is in there 3/4 inch. I am pretty it is a spanner type. it has two holes, 180 degrees apart.. I don't want to pound on it with a drift .I don't know who made the cylinder either. There is no tag on it either. It is on a 1950's MF 50 tractor. Thanks again for thinking about it.
Jack-1

 

[Will 1594]

Thanks for your reply. It is in there 3/4 inch. I am pretty it is a spanner type. it has two holes, 180 degrees apart.. I don't want to pound on it with a drift .I don't know who made the cylinder either. There is no tag on it either. It is on a 1950's MF 50 tractor. Thanks again for thinking about it.
Jack-1

If old massey , ring dobsons at levens kendall , they will know , and maybe even have a ram ,and or seals

 

[melted welly]

Thanks for reading. It is a welded cylinder, yuu can't pull the rod out without unscrewing the seal assembly.

if the rods slid out till the inner plunger hits the threads then it’ll be the seals holding it, just need to pull harder.

 

[milkloss]

Don't use compressed air though!

 

[jf850]

The ram on the bucket on my loader is leaking so I decided to try to fix it. Of course, I can't get it apart. I made a spanner to remove the outer ring. The problem is there is a recessed ring that also needs to come out. It is recessed about 3/4 inches It also would use a spanner wrench. Making that wrench is a lot more difficult, so I would prefer to buy one. Can any one direct me to a supplier that would have such a thing? I will include a picture that gives an idea of the problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reading.
Jack-1

Thanks for your reply. It is in there 3/4 inch. I am pretty it is a spanner type. it has two holes, 180 degrees apart.. I don't want to pound on it with a drift .I don't know who made the cylinder either. There is no tag on it either. It is on a 1950's MF 50 tractor. Thanks again for thinking about it.
Jack-1

I have a 1971 MF 50 digger loader for 23 years. I think the 50 came out around 69 and was superceded by the 50B in 72 ish. Is this the same ram as the one in my photo ?
About 2 years ago the seal in one tilt ram failed . Not leaking outward, but sinking constantly. I took it our local digger spares/hyd hose&seals place . He was unable to open it , as it was rusted solid after the thick end of 50 years. He told me to take it to a local engineer, who cut the end off it , machined a different groove in the inner part so as he could fit a newer type improved seal.
To open my ram , you open the shallow nut on the outside , this then allows you to drive in the inward piece pictured in your original post in an inch. In my case it wouldn't move due to being seized. When driven in an.inch , there will be a sort of wire circlip, that when removed allows you to bring out that inward piece.

If it is seized , you have 2 options
Same as I got done , which worked out OK.

Or , buy a SH ram , which may be perfect, or worse than.your own ram

 

[Sausage]

Might sound stupid, but if you turn the piston will it also turn?

 

[snipe]

A good punch and hammer should tap it round if you need to unscrew it.

 

[Jack-1]

if the rods slid out till the inner plunger hits the threads then it’ll be the seals holding it, just need to pull harder.

There is another piece threaded in the housing. If you look close in the picture you can see one of the holes. It is 3/4 inch deep in the housing. It has two holes in it probably for some specisl type of spanner wrench. It has 2 3/16th holes it 180 degrees apart. I made a tool and got it to turn a little over 1/2 a turn and it froze up. Might try to improve the tool I made but not sure I can make it better.
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion.
Jack

 

[milkloss]

Won't hurt to try and tosh it in further to see if there's a snap ring in there like a previous poster said. Again, I would think it highly unlikely that a pin spanner would be any use that far in the barrel. I usually make face pin spanner's from broken pick up tines but they'll be far too flexy for what you want.
Unusual it has pin spanner holes I'll admit.
if there is a snap ring then you might have to file the lip off where the gland has been hitting it at full extension otherwise it won't come out past the burr.

 

[livestock 1]

Put the pipe back on it and see if you can pop it out

 

[Exfarmer]

That does not screw out.
Firstly ensure there is not a wire spring clip in there!
The whole piston will now pop out, but will require some brute force.
do not hold it by clamping as you can deform the cylinder.
Hold it by the bottom pin.
put some WD 40 down. There is probably a small ring of rust where piston tops out.
you may push it out with compressed air, TAKE GREAT CARE as it may come out quite fast, people have been killed.
So it is critical that the projectile has nothing in the way.
another way of course is pumping oil in but you may lose quite a bit and have a flood in the workshop.
The proper way is a slide hammer
those holes you see are to dismantle the seal inside

 

[Exfarmer]

Should have said. If there is a screw on fitting that end, the spring clip may be accessed though it.
long time since I did those seals though!

 

[milkloss]

Don’t use compressed air......... stick the pressure washer on it.

 

[Exfarmer]

Don’t use compressed air......... stick the pressure washer on it.

Much better idea!
they were not universal when I last worked on a 50

 

[Jack-1]

Won't hurt to try and tosh it in further to see if there's a snap ring in there like a previous poster said. Again, I would think it highly unlikely that a pin spanner would be any use that far in the barrel. I usually make face pin spanner's from broken pick up tines but they'll be far too flexy for what you want.
Unusual it has pin spanner holes I'll admit.
if there is a snap ring then you might have to file the lip off where the gland has been hitting it at full extension otherwise it won't come out past the burr.

 

[Jack-1]

I have a better picture. There is no snap ring. There is an o ring outside the spanner "nut" that I am trying to remove. I didn't notice at first. You can see it in the picture. I may try to turn the nut back in and see if I can get the o ring out. Will need to modify my home made tool to turn it that direction. W