International 574 overheating
- Thread starter Classichay
- Start date
startinghandle
Member
Odd that 2 new stats were faulty
I am not disputing that but some years ago I fitted new stat in my dexta and if
I fitted it wrong it would not allow water to circulate and open and I don't mean fitting it upside down
- Location
- The moon
because it’s sat on my work bench and there’s nothing wrong with the fins it’s right on the shaft and not spinning. The new ones fitted now regardless. The thermostat I’ve posted a picture of is incapable of diverting the water it just opens the radiator hose up so it’s not right, as shown in the picture posted at the start of the thread.
- Location
- Near Derby
The mechanic I use fitted both thermostats and he knows what he is doing, but the filters were on his van so they both must have been faulty. When I used the tractor with both previous thermos the gauge would go up very high and then come down to normal. One day I heard the cylinder head gasket pop and had to do it again. I tried to get a 236 or 248 engine to replace the 212, but the only ones about are the Indian and Chinese rubbish.
The 475 is now going well and has recently had a new Mahle alternator which I got from Andrew @ACEngineering, but I had to get a new pulley as the one on the Mahle was too small and the one off the old one didn't fit.
- Location
- The moon
I’ve got a bit further on I’ve 15psi oil at idle and 38-40 on speed, the temperature gauge isn’t right as I’ve a contactless digi thermometer and registering the thermostat housing at 86 and the gauge reads very high.
- Location
- Near Derby
Please keep us informed, I am interested in your result. You can get a temp kit like this: https://www.tractorparts.co.uk/Inte...787r1-3127956R1-3073787R91-528213R1-3121240R1
- Location
- The moon
I’ve just bought that kit off him ?
But we need the tractor this weekend to turn hay, doesn’t seem to get over hot on low revs, so debating just putting a 1000 spline adaptor on the shaft and running less revs.
But we need the tractor this weekend to turn hay, doesn’t seem to get over hot on low revs, so debating just putting a 1000 spline adaptor on the shaft and running less revs.- Location
- Lincolnshire
Interesting thread. I have a 4240 with similar overheating problem. Flushed, new thermostat , reconditioned injectors, blew head gasket, head skimmed, new gasket, still overheats with any sort of load, but ok pottering about with loader.
People say that radiators clog inside but it seems to flow enough.
People say that radiators clog inside but it seems to flow enough.
- Location
- Lincolnshire
If engines are blowing past the pistons a lot, will that cause general overheating at high load?
- Location
- Near Derby
Try another thermostat from another supplier, the one you've got could be faulty.
It doesn’t sound like your tractor ever was overheating to me.
You’ve checked the temp at the top hose with your digi gauge and the water is coming out of the bottom hose cool.
Does your fuel gauge read high also? If so, it might be the voltage stabilizer faulty.
Also, I personally wouldn’t mess about with the pto adapters to run it on the 1000 shaft. It upsets the pto angles when lifting the machine and the pto shaft may well bottom out. At best, you risk wrapping the shaft in hay and wrecking the oil seal in the tractor back end and at worst the whole shaft might fly into pieces and injure someone.
In my experience, the cooling was always marginal on ih tractors, but the later the model the better they were.
I’ve chopped thousands of acres of grass with a 674 running at 2400 rpm and maximum power and it would only overheat if there was actually something wrong with it. Usually grass in the radiator, and the snag with the 74 series was that it didn’t take much to upset things. The later 885XL was much more tolerant.
I would say the other thing to watch is to make sure you let the engine cool for a minute or two with plenty of revs on if it’s been working hard. It’s no good just shutting the throttle to idle because water will blow out of the overflow pipe, you need to keep the fan and pump speed up to pull water through the radiator and cool things down.
You’ve checked the temp at the top hose with your digi gauge and the water is coming out of the bottom hose cool.
Does your fuel gauge read high also? If so, it might be the voltage stabilizer faulty.
Also, I personally wouldn’t mess about with the pto adapters to run it on the 1000 shaft. It upsets the pto angles when lifting the machine and the pto shaft may well bottom out. At best, you risk wrapping the shaft in hay and wrecking the oil seal in the tractor back end and at worst the whole shaft might fly into pieces and injure someone.
In my experience, the cooling was always marginal on ih tractors, but the later the model the better they were.
I’ve chopped thousands of acres of grass with a 674 running at 2400 rpm and maximum power and it would only overheat if there was actually something wrong with it. Usually grass in the radiator, and the snag with the 74 series was that it didn’t take much to upset things. The later 885XL was much more tolerant.
I would say the other thing to watch is to make sure you let the engine cool for a minute or two with plenty of revs on if it’s been working hard. It’s no good just shutting the throttle to idle because water will blow out of the overflow pipe, you need to keep the fan and pump speed up to pull water through the radiator and cool things down.
davidroberts30
Member
- Location
- pembrokeshire
Is the temp gauge rising with the revs?
Where is the rad filler on that one? Centre or offset?
- Location
- Near Derby
Any news of the 574?
- Location
- The moon
Well we’ve got the new gauge and sender, tried to use it on the 4 rotor Tedder for hay and the pto kept slowing down to a stall so I’m assuming the pto clutch pack is shot 
Now I’ve got to sort that
Now I’ve got to sort thatWell we’ve got the new gauge and sender, tried to use it on the 4 rotor Tedder for hay and the pto kept slowing down to a stall so I’m assuming the pto clutch pack is shot
Oh dear, that’s bad luck.
Might be worth checking pressures and whether the valve is moving it’s full travel first.
The good news is it’s a straightforward job and I think the pack is only about £70.
Exactly what Andy said. I have only done one years ago and on first attempt nipped the seals in the pack reassembling. Had the pack reassembled by local engineers. The pto still slipped and it turned out the spool was not adjusted correctly. (if memory serves me)
Gapples
Member
Well we’ve got the new gauge and sender, tried to use it on the 4 rotor Tedder for hay and the pto kept slowing down to a stall so I’m assuming the pto clutch pack is shot
I suggest you have the PTO pressure checked at MCV before you put a new clutch pack in.
Little point replacing the PTO clutch plates if it's down on pressure, they'll be shot again in no time.
- Location
- The moon
What in the way of pressure gauges do I need?
Gapples
Member
A 500 psi gauge is all you want to check PTO pressure.
You are looking for 220/250 psi, preferred to be nearer the 250 psi at the MCV as you'll always drop a bit of pressure at the pack.
You test at the top RHS of the MCV where the small pipe comes out ( 9/16 af spanner size.
Test at the MCV first, if pressure is ok there then test at the cap further down, this second test has the PTO pack in circuit.
You'll obviously need adapters from the gauge through a mini bore to fit the ends.
The sizes are JIC, but just take the small pipe off the MCV & take it to your hydraulic supplier where you but your gauge.
Or simply get someone to come & test it for you.
Let me know what pressure you record.