John Deere 3050 - novice question

[New Puritan]

@bovrill, @Tractortech & @Hesston4860s - thank you - all of you. That's really helpful. I don't know why it didn't occur to me that it would have had to be altered to fit the front linkage; and those pictures really help.

Thanks everyone, once again, this forum is really useful to a newby like me.

NP.

 

[David.]

Be aware that the spool levers are fixed at the bottom to the round shaft with a roll pin, and when this roll pin shears, you will have no flow because the linkage does not operate. It is also unpleasant to get at to replace the roll pins.
The actual spool within the block is moved by a rack and pinion arrangement which has given trouble on one of my tractors to the extent that I had to strip it out, and have managed to bodge up a single acting service on one of the spools. It lives on the sprayer mostly so it doesn't matter, but I think new slices were about £300 each at the time.

 

[New Puritan]

Right - another numpty question...

I changed the hydraulic oil and filters on the 3050 yesterday. It all seemed to go okay but now I have a leak from the main filter when the engine is running, which I didn't have before. Is there a knack to putting the casing back on correctly? The bolt holding it on wasn't very tight beforehand, I undid it with a small ratchet socket arm. The replacement filter came with a new gasket / packing ring, which I duly coated in grease and fitted as per the instructions.

Has anyone else done this? What's the secret?

Thanks in advance...

NP.

 

[Thomas5060]

Right - another numpty question...

I changed the hydraulic oil and filters on the 3050 yesterday. It all seemed to go okay but now I have a leak from the main filter when the engine is running, which I didn't have before. Is there a knack to putting the casing back on correctly? The bolt holding it on wasn't very tight beforehand, I undid it with a small ratchet socket arm. The replacement filter came with a new gasket / packing ring, which I duly coated in grease and fitted as per the instructions.

Has anyone else done this? What's the secret?

Thanks in advance...

NP.

Don't mean this in a cheeky way, but is the bolt tight enough?

 

[Flat 10]

Don't mean this in a cheeky way, but is the bolt tight enough?

Or overtightened? You can do that with the one on my 885 and it distorts the canister and leaks. Often they have a torgue setting in the book....

 

[Lofty1984]

Another that not meaning to sound stupid but did you remove the old ring and gasket

 

[Ioan annwyl]

There is no gasket, just a square section "o-ring" it does not come with a genuine jd filter you buy it separately. Make sure circlip in canister which holds down filter end cap is in place. Grease seal and insert into transmission housing after removing old seal, offer up filter housing an twist slightly as you tighten the centre bolt, if you have a return pipe into the housing remove it before offering filter housing up to transmission as it will twist the housing to the side. Hope this helps.

 

[Thomas5060]

Or overtightened? You can do that with the one on my 885 and it distorts the canister and leaks. Often they have a torgue setting in the book....

Have overtightened stuff before and damaged orings and seals

 

[New Puritan]

Hmm, thanks everyone. @Flat 10 and @Thomas5060 's suggestions of over-tightening may be the issue. This is what comes of not having a torque wrench with me. Think I'll buy another O-ring and try again, armed with the correct tools next time.

Thanks to everyone who replied btw - it's great how so many people chip in to these threads for a plonker like me.

Another, possibly even sillier, question. Which way up does the filter go? One end has a smaller diameter hole in it than the other. Either way seems to fit. Now, obviously, I should have checked how the old one was fitted, but it came out in more of a hurry than I expected and it landed on its side.

Thanks everyone,
NP.

 

[New Puritan]

@Ioan annwyl :

There is no gasket, just a square section "o-ring" it does not come with a genuine jd filter you buy it separately. Make sure circlip in canister which holds down filter end cap is in place. Grease seal and insert into transmission housing after removing old seal, offer up filter housing an twist slightly as you tighten the centre bolt, if you have a return pipe into the housing remove it before offering filter housing up to transmission as it will twist the housing to the side. Hope this helps.

Thanks for this. That's the thing I meant, the O-ring. The filter I bought from Agriline came with one. Perhaps I'll try and get a proper JD one for the second attempt. I'll have to have a look at the canister to see what you mean about the circlip. My filter housing does not seem to have a return pipe - there is a bolt coming out the side which might be where it would be if there was one - are they not always fitted?

Cheers,
NP.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Hmm, thanks everyone. @Flat 10 and @Thomas5060 's suggestions of over-tightening may be the issue. This is what comes of not having a torque wrench with me. Think I'll buy another O-ring and try again, armed with the correct tools next time.

Thanks to everyone who replied btw - it's great how so many people chip in to these threads for a plonker like me.

Another, possibly even sillier, question. Which way up does the filter go? One end has a smaller diameter hole in it than the other. Either way seems to fit. Now, obviously, I should have checked how the old one was fitted, but it came out in more of a hurry than I expected and it landed on its side.

Thanks everyone,
NP.

Seal is R34733, filter is AR75603 sounds like you've got AL25554 which is transmission filter for old 30 series tractors eg 2130/3130 with Hi/Lo, (Hi/Lo is equivalent to Ford'sDual Power and Massey's Multi Power.
Or check carefully as said in my earlier post the circlip can slide up the bolt releasing the blanking plate which the filter seats on, this is most probably stuck to your old filter. Seen this too often, new filter chucked in an bolted up, but filter now does nothing as oil just flows around it. AR75603 is what you need.

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks @Ioan annwyl . So, is it the blanking plate that gets stuck to the old one? I don't s'pose you know what part number those are, as the old filter has already been disposed of...

 

[Ioan annwyl]

L29251

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
Fit the new sealing ring up into the transmission case, with grease to hold it in place. Twist the bowl to and fro a little as you nip it up. Over tightening won't be an issue if you use a regular length spanner..
I only ever use genuine filters.
Look up ' JDParts ' for numbers and a guide how things look..

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks @Tractortech & @Ioan annwyl .

Just to clarify - is it that part labelled as number 4 in the diagram above that you suspect I have lost by removing it with the old filter? From the picture, it looks like it ought to be held onto the bolt by the nut labelled as 3? Or is that the circlip you mentioned? 5, 6 & 7 look like it's a spring loaded thing that would have all pinged out and been noticeable if it had come undone?

I need to get back under the tractor to work out what I have missed - but I am trying to prepare myself by knowing what to look for. I really, really appreciate everyone's help and advice on this - thank you.

NP.

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
What often happens is that item 4 sticks to the filter, the circlip groove in bolt number 9 isn't very deep so the circlip often slides up the bolt. However it usually all takes hold at the threads & item 4 separates at that point.
So, in order you have a bolt with an O ring under the head passing through the filter bowl, then the spring with a washer on top, next is another O ring, item 4 (the right way up of course) then the circlip. You may have to run a saw blade around the groove to square it up.
It will all work without the Circlip, it just takes more effort to push the filter bowl up & get the bolt started..

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Now Then..
What often happens is that item 4 sticks to the filter, the circlip groove in bolt number 9 isn't very deep so the circlip often slides up the bolt. However it usually all takes hold at the threads & item 4 separates at that point.
So, in order you have a bolt with an O ring under the head passing through the filter bowl, then the spring with a washer on top, next is another O ring, item 4 (the right way up of course) then the circlip. You may have to run a saw blade around the groove to square it up.
It will all work without the Circlip, it just takes more effort to push the filter bowl up & get the bolt started..

Agree as above, this I when the bowl tilts and damages the seal 1.

 

[New Puritan]

Thanks again guys - this is so helpful to someone like me. I'll not be able to get to the tractor until Saturday morning, but I think I have a good idea what to look for now. I'll report back...

Thanks again,
NP.

 

[New Puritan]

Success! (I think). Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. I think, in the end, all it was was that the seal wasn't quite in correctly, it had got twisted when the bolt was tightened up. I took everything apart, cleaned it to make sure there was no muck stuck to anything, re-assembled and did it up with a torque wrench. Some combination of the seal not being twisted, no dirt caught in it, and having it tightened to the correct amount seems to have fixed it. Phew.

 

[Ioan annwyl]

Did you check if you fitted the correct filter (AR75603) open at both ends?