Manitou cold morning starting problems

[Turra farmer]

Ye did get cooked by a staff member , what's head cost to fix

 

[Sparkplug]

What year is your 627?

 

[Turra farmer]

What year is your 627?

2007

 

[Mursal]

what's head cost to fix

Head gasket on a 6 cylinder John Deere 2.5k if I remember correctly.
So on the Perkins I'm guessing about £600, gasket kit wont be that expensive mostly labour cleaning the surfaces up. Best get the head skimmed if in doubt ..................

But investigate further, no good having the head on the floor and the gasket not gone.

 

[Sparkplug]

Good afternoon
I'm in south Africa and looking at buying an old 2000 MT1337 SLT. Any advice? Looks like about 15000hrs... They look like great machines? Wanting to push up wood chips
We struggled to start it when I went to inspect early today. Maybe tired starter?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Gary

So what were the symptoms - any diesel smoke coming out of the exhaust, did the engine spin over very fast? or very slow, was the diesel bled up to the pump?, did you crack an injector off in case it was air locked or diesel had run back because of faulty lift pump, when did the engine last run?

 

[Gary Moor]

power feed for the sensor with no wires on it comes off the fuel run/stop solenoid then another wire off the sensor takes it under the pump to the timing solenoid.

I have a full perkins workshop manual I can try and email to the OP but its 16mb so will need a decent internet connection.

Timing case wants coming off any way to sort that water leak from the gasket between timing case and block, common place to leak. It will no doubt be corroded so a new case will be needed which will sort the problem of stripped threads for the injector pump at same time

I'd be grateful if I could get a copy of your manual please?

So what were the symptoms - any diesel smoke coming out of the exhaust, did the engine spin over very fast? or very slow, was the diesel bled up to the pump?, did you crack an injector off in case it was air locked or diesel had run back because of faulty lift pump, when did the engine last run?

The engine was run 2 days prior. The starter was quite slow and initially solenoid got stuck and needed a tap to release.
There is a little bit of diesel smoke and an oil leak around the turbo....
We did crack an injector to bleed it. Ended up starting with a booster battery
Another quick question, does the machine limit the revs a little when engaging the hydraulics?
Thanks so much for all the help, quite excited about getting it. I think youryo right, might need to do the engine but getting it at a great price

 

[ACEngineering]

I'd be grateful if I could get a copy of your manual please?


The engine was run 2 days prior. The starter was quite slow and initially solenoid got stuck and needed a tap to release.

There is a little bit of diesel smoke and an oil leak around the turbo....
We did crack an injector to bleed it. Ended up starting with a booster battery
Another quick question, does the machine limit the revs a little when engaging the hydraulics?
Thanks so much for all the help, quite excited about getting it. I think youryo right, might need to do the engine but getting it at a great price

Sounds like starter motors had it.

No nothing limiting engine revs from hydraulics.

 

[Gary Moor]

Sounds like starter motors had it.

No nothing limiting engine revs from hydraulics.

Hi
Ended up buying that 1337 and it's actually not bad! Sorting out most of the little issues.
Wanted to ask, there's a little kick in the steering every now and again, orbital valve needs attention perhaps?
Thanks again for the advice

 

[ACEngineering]

Hi
Ended up buying that 1337 and it's actually not bad! Sorting out most of the little issues.
Wanted to ask, there's a little kick in the steering every now and again, orbital valve needs attention perhaps?
Thanks again for the advice

Its either steering priority valve or its charging an accumulator thats knackered? Whats serial number so i can look at spec. Not often i see 13metre plus machines.

 

[Gary Moor]

Hi, these are the details:
MT 1337 SLT
Serial: 147694
Year 2000
Series 2
Chassis # 1147694

 

[Gary Moor]

Its either steering priority valve or its charging an accumulator thats knackered? Whats serial number so i can look at spec. Not often i see 13metre plus machines.

Do you by any chance have a manual please? I'd like to replace the wear blocks on the boom and don't want to mess it up...

 

[ACEngineering]

Do you by any chance have a manual please? I'd like to replace the wear blocks on the boom and don't want to mess it up...

Operators manual, parts list and a full workshop manual is £75 plus vat

That's genuine paper manuals not a CD copy.

Workshop manual will come loose pages but will be hole punched for a 4 hole ring binder.

 

[CarpenterPaul]

Hi Gary. It's fun to see someone else get an old Manitou 1337 from 2000. How is it doing? Are you still using it for chips?

 

[CarpenterPaul]

Andrew et al,

Can you tell me what this ring is that's coming out from under the cap on the rear axle in my Manitou 1337? What can be the reason? It's torn longways, too.

 

[Sparkplug]

It's all part of a Nylon Bush that the axle pivots on - one each side of the axle - if you jack the chassis up - not the axle - as you take the weight of it you will see how much wear there is in it.
Then you can undo the axle propshaft and axle bolts and lower axle down to slide collars off to replace Nylon Bushes before it wears the axle casting- caution needed as the diff side is heavier so the axle can spin round dangerously! @ace will be able to fill you in on the finer points.

 

[CarpenterPaul]

Is there a way to replace just this one in the back? Or both should be replaced simultaneously? I've never done a big job like this on my Manitou, sort of intimidating.

 

[CarpenterPaul]

Also, it's not nylon, it's metal.

 

[Sparkplug]

By jacking the chassis up and watching how much movement there is in the Bush, you can assess how much wear there is. It's a job with a 3/4 socket set and a scaffold pole as those axle retaining bolts will be very tight and maybe loctited in, plus trolley jack and axle stands and a mate to help. You can block the chassis up and remove the rear wheels and lower axle on a trolley jack, but as I said the axle heavier side will spin round out of control unless you are well organised. There are locators on the axle caps as well so the bolts line up - but if you are going to change one you might as well change both and then keep them well greased in the future to prevent wear.

 

[Sparkplug]

Many years since I did one so may be phosphor bronze , but the Farm Spec 2.60/3.00 ton were Nylon type of plastic - @ace will put you right

 

[CarpenterPaul]

Will the axle roll out from under the handler if I keep the wheels on? Or I won't be able to put it back together later because it will want to spin?