Manitou cold morning starting problems
- Thread starter CarpenterPaul
- Start date
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Old Clark hurth axles used nylon later Dana spicer used bronze. Imo nylon was better!
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Hello
Sorry to say but what you will find here is the bronze bushing has collapsed in to the grease way in the housing. It will then have worn in to the axle casing leaving a ridge where the Bush collapsed. Any new Bush will be loose probably both in housing and axle plus you will have to grind the ridge down on axle to stop it instantly collapsing the Bush in to the grease way again.
Imo it's the front Bush that gives most trouble and wear so if your back one is that bad your front will be worse!
On smaller machines you can have the axle stubs machined and a steel sleeve pressed on back to standard but you can not do that on a 13m machine as you weaken the axle too much and the stubs shear off!
Your basically looking at a new centre diff casing to put it right.
It's a common problem with them axles and that type of Bush set up.
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Hi all. I finally got to taking the axle down. I took all 4 big bolts out, but the axle won't come down. It's hanging in the air! I beat on it with a small sledgehammer to no avail. When I took out the two bolts closer to the driveshaft, about a full glass of water poured out from the holes.
What's going on here?
What's going on here?
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Never mind. It came off several hours later. Steel wedges came to help. And ACE was right the foresee the more serious problem of wear on the axle and casing...
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
cant recall what model this was but if its a big machine don't try re machining the axle to take a steel sleeve. it wont work and the axle will crack cause it will be very weak, some axles have a bolt on pinion housing you can buy separately but others is all part of the diff housing so just have to get a new diff housing.
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Thank you!
Was it Holding on the Dowels?
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Would have been yes but u was too late to reply to that problem.
Normally leave bolts in loose let axle hang on it and hit brackets back and forth a bit till it drops down or get a thin chisel in there to open it up a bit.
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Yes, the axle was hanging on the dowels. I was surprised because it sure weighs a lot! I did use the largest prying bar on hand after a gap opened up. Now need to decide what to do with the axle ends and casings.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
its the dana axle looking in the past picture so wont have any bolt on ends, you will have to replace the diff housing/casing and the support hanger brackets as they will be too weak once bored out and sleeved. MT 1337 is very heavy on the rear!
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Is this what you call a casing? This piece was worn on the bottom. But the stub (differential?) that it mounts on and supports is also worn a bit, with a few nicks and dents. How bit of a problem is that?
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Hi all!
I did fix the axle on my Manitou 1337 a month ago, and haven't used the tractor since. It just stood there for a month.
This morning I started the engine, no problem. But when I pressed on the brake pedal, all the way down it went. I checked the brake fluid tank - it was empty. I had no warning light on probably because this old tractor was rewired and "optimized" by the previous owner.
What do I do now? What kind of fluid is in the brake fluid tank? Do I need to pump the brake, like it's done on cars, to get rid of trapped air?
I did fix the axle on my Manitou 1337 a month ago, and haven't used the tractor since. It just stood there for a month.
This morning I started the engine, no problem. But when I pressed on the brake pedal, all the way down it went. I checked the brake fluid tank - it was empty. I had no warning light on probably because this old tractor was rewired and "optimized" by the previous owner.
What do I do now? What kind of fluid is in the brake fluid tank? Do I need to pump the brake, like it's done on cars, to get rid of trapped air?
LHM Fluid ONLY, Did the brakes work before? If you have no external leaks, it will have run into the axle- are you sure the previous owner has not put the wrong brake fluid in - if that is the case it will have damaged seals in Master Cylinder & Axle Brake Piston Seals. @ace will be along to give a more concise view and remedy.
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
I think you covered it fairly well?
Empty pot and no visible leaks then it's gone in to one of the axles.
If he had axle off then would have been good idea to replace brakes seals while it was off which he may well of done and damaged the seal as the new style seals are a tight fit and needs a tool to press them in.
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
Well, I myself may be the one who did damage to the brake seals when I took the rear axle down to replace the axle support bracket a month ago. Except that I don't know yet what the brake seals are and where to look for them. Can you help?
CarpenterPaul
New Member
- Location
- Karelia
I've read other threads on Manitou brakes. Sorry for asking the same questions. I guess the question I should start with is: how does the Manitou 1337 brake system work? Any differently from smaller tractors?
ACEngineering
Member
- Location
- Oxon
Same as the 634 and 735 manitous.
Master cylinder in cab power assisted by hydraulic circuit about 40bars.
LHM mineral brake fluid in the pot, wet multi plate brake discs in front and rear axles.
Simple piston each side of axle in trumpet housing to engage brake discs.
That's about it really cause your unlikely to have any trailer brake valve on it cause machines too big and heavy to tow anything.