willie8110
New Member
Could you swop one from a tractor the same, sorry if that is insulting you slightly.
No not at all. Not a lot of 81s around here. A friend has one but she’s open center
Could you swop one from a tractor the same, sorry if that is insulting you slightly.
Don’t think there’s seals in them it’s like a spool if I remember right? Did you say you’d had the spool out? Everything moving freely?
The open centre ones will have seals in I wounder if that’s what you’ve seenYa free as a bird. I seen that qtp do a seal kit for them that’s what made think seals
The open centre ones will have seals in I wounder if that’s what you’ve seen
Just bought an 8130 and it also has the neck breaking jerk you mention; There is no oil pressure light on the dash, as soon as the clutch is released, there is no bite and then once its fully released, it tries to send you through the windscreen. Did you get to the bottom of the fault? Could you shed light on it? Cheersaup lads, I've just brought a MF 8130 with a few known faults, one of them being a jerky clutch if you let it out without giving the tractor a bit of rev at the same time it snatches badly almost a neck snapping jerk and at the same time the trans oil pressure light comes on, any ideas? I was thinking it could be a flat acumilator (excuse spelling) or a problem with a valve somewhere
thanks
Dave
Thank you, where do you find the test point on them? this one only ever gets sharp on the clutch after she's been heated up.Yes mine was a leak on the 4wd pack loosing the 17bar pressure needed to work the clutch
The 4wd, difflock,pto, dynashift and clutch all work of a 17bar circuit, you really need to get a gauge on the test point to find your problem there is also an accumulator on this circuit that can fail
Mine is smooth as anything now
no rush, thank youI brought a workshop manual of eBay has been very handy I’ll try find you the pages and put them up, but busy on silage at the moment so might take me a bit
I took the charge pump out for a look but it looks in perfect condition so I guess I'm on the wrong track.The charge pressure is 5 bar, but dropping down to less than 3 bar when I turn the steering. Not sure if this indicates insufficient flow on the charge line?
I'm going to remove the charge pump for a look.
Replaced the clutch accumulator and now the 17bar circuit pressure is stable even when turning the steering. Problem solved.I took the charge pump out for a look but it looks in perfect condition so I guess I'm on the wrong track.
Anybody know if it is normal for the 17 bar circuit to drop in pressure when turning steering? Maybe that's why an accumulator is needed and mine could be faulty?
Yes scoring on that plate will effect pressure I had mine skimmed/polished which helped a lot give that a go or see if you can get a new one these pumps are very common so bits should be easy to get of somewhere like Whitehouse productsSpoke too soon.
Once the oil gets warmed up I lose the clutch when turning the steering.
With hot oil I’ve also got poor pressure on spools. Struggled to lift slurry pump out of tank with hydraulic top link.
I removed and dismantled the orbital, it looks in good condition, steering works ok. (I’ve rebuild these before- seen them badly stuffed with filings etc)
I suspected main piston pump may be worn due to lack of pressure on spools and problem worse with hot oil, so I removed RH cover and dismantled piston pump.
It seems in good condition, but there is some marking on the brass plate which can be felt with my finger. I don’t think its enough to cause my issues, but not sure- maybe even light scoring on the brass plate might affect the flow/pressure?
Losing the will to live with this one.