New Holland Combine - 24v start

[Steevo]

Seems all NH combines are plagued with the battery drain "virus"......my old combine was a 12v start (2 x 12v in parallel). I used to either charge batteries together on the machine, or use the 12v jump starter.

The new one is a 24v start apparently, meaning neither of the above methods are possible. Do others just separate the batteries and charge individually?

I should really get round to fixing up a permanent trickle charger so it can be on charge whenever it's put to bed. I've never known any machine drain batteries quite so fast - I've left tractors in the barn for 6 months before with no charger on and they've started just fine.

 

[Netherfield]

You can seperate the batteries and charge them in parallel, charge them individually, buy two 12 volt smart chargers and connect them up still attached to the machine, or buy a 24v smart charger.

In parallel can be a problem when they get older if one starts failing, the other can get overcharged, I had the two smart charger setup on the generator,couldn't find a 24v smart charger at the time,nothing worse when you really need it and it won't start

 

[Steevo]

Exactly! This morning I found it was flat - dad went and put the smart charger on and it kicked up a fuss because he forgot it was 24v unlike the last machine so when we went back later expecting to find it charged.....it had done nothing!

Multimeter on - one battery showed 12.0v the other 8.8v.

Thanks for the suggestions anyway.

You can:

- seperate the batteries and charge them in parallel - I'd need to get some leads rigged up to do this!
- charge them individually - my current plan!
- buy two 12 volt smart chargers and connect them up still attached to the machine - i have two but one is 25A the other is only 7A so wouldn't quite work ideally
- or buy a 24v smart charger - I'd be tempted to at some point. The NOCO look reasonable for a 24v compared to a CTEK.


It's way more confusing having a 24v start - I did check the manual to see what it said, only to find that the rear half was missing.

 

[David.]

Half a manual and a shagged battery....did you buy through a dealer to ensure this sort if thing wouldnt happen?

 

[michael N123]

When our old wagon decided to have no electricity I charged one battery up then put the jump leads On the other off the tractor

 

[Steevo]

Half a manual and a shagged battery....did you buy through a dealer to ensure this sort if thing wouldnt happen?

Erm....yes! How did you guess?!

My disappointment in dealers is renewed once more!

 

[Netherfield]

Exactly! This morning I found it was flat - dad went and put the smart charger on and it kicked up a fuss because he forgot it was 24v unlike the last machine so when we went back later expecting to find it charged.....it had done nothing!

Multimeter on - one battery showed 12.0v the other 8.8v.

Thanks for the suggestions anyway.

You can:

- seperate the batteries and charge them in parallel - I'd need to get some leads rigged up to do this!
- charge them individually - my current plan!
- buy two 12 volt smart chargers and connect them up still attached to the machine - i have two but one is 25A the other is only 7A so wouldn't quite work ideally
- or buy a 24v smart charger - I'd be tempted to at some point. The NOCO look reasonable for a 24v compared to a CTEK.


It's way more confusing having a 24v start - I did check the manual to see what it said, only to find that the rear half was missing.

I'd never heard of NOCO, but I'd imagine if the RAC shop is selling it, it will be ok. 24 volt is OK when you've multiple vehicles using it, we had 2 or more trucks and the generator so if stuck jump leads could be used to start one of them.

 

[quavers]

Exactly! This morning I found it was flat - dad went and put the smart charger on and it kicked up a fuss because he forgot it was 24v unlike the last machine so when we went back later expecting to find it charged.....it had done nothing!

Multimeter on - one battery showed 12.0v the other 8.8v.

Thanks for the suggestions anyway.

You can:

- seperate the batteries and charge them in parallel - I'd need to get some leads rigged up to do this!
- charge them individually - my current plan!
- buy two 12 volt smart chargers and connect them up still attached to the machine - i have two but one is 25A the other is only 7A so wouldn't quite work ideally
- or buy a 24v smart charger - I'd be tempted to at some point. The NOCO look reasonable for a 24v compared to a CTEK.


It's way more confusing having a 24v start - I did check the manual to see what it said, only to find that the rear half was missing.

my big ctek charger did not last long past the warranty period and they wanted me to send it to sweden for repair at my cost when i enquired , the NOCO i picked up cheap on amazon on the black friday deals so keep a look out on there , they have a 3 year warranty i think if i remember .

 

[d williams]

Seems all NH combines are plagued with the battery drain "virus"......my old combine was a 12v start (2 x 12v in parallel). I used to either charge batteries together on the machine, or use the 12v jump starter.

The new one is a 24v start apparently, meaning neither of the above methods are possible. Do others just separate the batteries and charge individually?

I should really get round to fixing up a permanent trickle charger so it can be on charge whenever it's put to bed. I've never known any machine drain batteries quite so fast - I've left tractors in the barn for 6 months before with no charger on and they've started just fine.

Check out your isolators before spending on batteries
They’ve been problems

 

[Steevo]

Check out your isolators before spending on batteries
They’ve been problems

Thanks. It works enough to stop the cab courtesy light being lit.

One mechanic advised me they will drain due to computers always being connected but I’m pretty sure the isolater knocks everything out.

 

[Steevo]

my big ctek charger did not last long past the warranty period and they wanted me to send it to sweden for repair at my cost when i enquired , the NOCO i picked up cheap on amazon on the black friday deals so keep a look out on there , they have a 3 year warranty i think if i remember .

My bit CTEK has been faultless so far.

I need another NOCO jump starter so waiting for Black Friday for that. May well grab a charger too.

 

[David.]

Erm....yes! How did you guess?!

My disappointment in dealers is renewed once more!

Well they are obliged by Law to furnish you with a complete operators manual, a good battery perhaps less so....

 

[d williams]

Thanks. It works enough to stop the cab courtesy light being lit.

One mechanic advised me they will drain due to computers always being connected but I’m pretty sure the isolater knocks everything out.

Yes let screens shut down then isolate but the feed goes through isolators back to starter check connections clean and working contacts have been trouble

 

[Steevo]

Yes let screens shut down then isolate but the feed goes through isolators back to starter check connections clean and working contacts have been trouble

Sorry, you've lost me there.

 

[d williams]

Sorry, you've lost me there.

The feed from the battery goes through the isolator to the starter friend of mine thought their batteries died last harvest but the connections in the isolator had failed

 

[Steevo]

The feed from the battery goes through the isolator to the starter friend of mine thought their batteries died last harvest but the connections in the isolator had failed

Thanks. On this occasion I'm 100% sure that one battery is no good. The isolator appears to be working ok.

 

[njneer]

Check for “Add on “ Auxilliary equipment such as control boxes for vario headers and rear view and spout camera’s etc . These things tend to get added on by owners after purchase and get wired in with some questionable wiring .
Have had a number of instances where carrying out parasitic draw tests that it has generally been an “add on “ that’s causing the draw on the batteries.

 

[Steevo]

Check for “Add on “ Auxilliary equipment such as control boxes for vario headers and rear view and spout camera’s etc . These things tend to get added on by owners after purchase and get wired in with some questionable wiring .
Have had a number of instances where carrying out parasitic draw tests that it has generally been an “add on “ that’s causing the draw on the batteries.

Thanks. Good logic there! I'm pretty sure all connections on anything are after the isolator.

 

[defender]

When our old wagon decided to have no electricity I charged one battery up then put the jump leads On the other off the tractor

Used to this regularly , jump leads on good battery with engine running for a few minutes to boost then swap,to other battery to start

 

[Steevo]

When our old wagon decided to have no electricity I charged one battery up then put the jump leads On the other off the tractor

Used to this regularly , jump leads on good battery with engine running for a few minutes to boost then swap,to other battery to start

Thank you both.

Lead me to ask this one in the NOCO thread:

Seemed the logical place to put it....


Can you jump start a 24v system with a pair of these GB150s?

On my other thread @michael N123 suggested he charged one battery and then put jump leads on the other to get going.