Pod-Stik

[Desangosse Ltd]

Just a heads up - we are getting close to the ideal timing for Pod-Stik in OSR.

1 litre/ha. 100-150 litres of water if going alone.

If you are at cereals, come and have a natter.

 

[Clive]

Just a heads up - we are getting close to the ideal timing for Pod-Stik in OSR.

1 litre/ha. 100-150 litres of water if going alone.

If you are at cereals, come and have a natter.

what's the earliest you would advise going with it ?

 

[Desangosse Ltd]

When pods are fully formed, green and pliable (GS 82), you will get over 12 weeks activity. Going on at this timing allows you to push the tramlines down without shattering them. When you desiccate, drive the same way down the tramlines.

 

[jack6480]

@RAF

 

[Rob Holmes]

When pods are fully formed, green and pliable (GS 82), you will get over 12 weeks activity. Going on at this timing allows you to push the tramlines down without shattering them. When you desiccate, drive the same way down the tramlines.

I find it works very well

 

[CORK]

Will the podstik work just as well if I wait till dessication?

I use it every year. Went with it separately last year and felt that I did more damage than going just the once at dessication time.

 

[Desangosse Ltd]

Will the podstik work just as well if I wait till dessication?

I use it every year. Went with it separately last year and felt that I did more damage than going just the once at dessication time.

It will work, but our best advice is to go 'early'. You will get a better return for you money. The main saving comes from reducing tramline shatter.

 

[CORK]

It will work, but our best advice is to go 'early'. You will get a better return for you money. The main saving comes from reducing tramline shatter.

I just felt that I folded down the tramlines first time but the second time I brushed them just as much and did a lot of wreck where I went against the direction of fold on the headlands (un avoidable).

 

[Fish]

I one field last year, I tried podstik 3 weeks before dessication, at dessication and dessication without podstik, and could see no difference what so ever.
This year I will not bother.

 

[einstein]

same as the poster above.We wont bother.

 

[Rob Holmes]

I'm shocked at the above comments, to me its a no brainer to do in separate operations

 

[tw15]

I put the pod stick on in separate operation but an thinking of trying to put push bar on the tractor so i push it down just that bit lower so when i come back with the round up the tractor doesn't brush the top of the tramline as hard but just clears it.

 

[fudge]

We've never tried pod stik. How much does it cost? Is there any chance it will reduce the elasticity of green pods thereby constricting seed growth?

 

[Desangosse Ltd]

We've never tried pod stik. How much does it cost? Is there any chance it will reduce the elasticity of green pods thereby constricting seed growth?

The is no chance of reducing elasticity of green pods. The product will grow with the pods. The elasticity of the product allows the pod to naturally expand and contract with no issues at all.

I cannot quote a price as a manufacturer, but I am sure others on here could. It is a low cost input.

The only aspect to watch is make sure you do not let the solution dry in the spray tank, wash through with non-ionic wetter and water once finished spraying.

 

[Clive]

When pods are fully formed, green and pliable (GS 82), you will get over 12 weeks activity. Going on at this timing allows you to push the tramlines down without shattering them. When you desiccate, drive the same way down the tramlines.

I did it this way last year and was happy with results - just wondered if I could go even earlier than we did last time

I'm considering just pod-stik and no desiccation this year, was reading that desiccation is yield limiting and along with wanting to reduce glyphosate use and a very clean (clearfield) crop I reckon I could get away with waiting and just direct cut ?

 

[Desangosse Ltd]

@Clive - assess the top pods on the canopy, if they are fully formed, then I would say go unles you have massive variability in pod formation throughout the whole plant. The product will last the course, the main thing is to ensure the pods are there to be hit by the spray.

The dessication choice is yours to make.

 

[Oat]

Just a heads up - we are getting close to the ideal timing for Pod-Stik in OSR.

1 litre/ha. 100-150 litres of water if going alone.

If you are at cereals, come and have a natter.

Would it not work better at a higher water volume? Surely you want to penetrate the upper canopy down to the pods lower on the plant?

 

[A Trebor]

I just felt that I folded down the tramlines first time but the second time I brushed them just as much and did a lot of wreck where I went against the direction of fold on the headlands (un avoidable).

Always turn onto headland in the direction you previously sprayed,at one end miss a tramline and bring it back from other end. Not very clearly explained but does work if you understand what I am saying.

 

[Badshot]

I won't be using it this year, tried for the first time last year and it was a waste of time, money and effort, the tramline I left undone as a comparison fed into the combine with low losses, just as the rest did. IMO
Better spending on a combine with a decent header for cutting rape and beans.

 

[Desangosse Ltd]

Would it not work better at a higher water volume? Surely you want to penetrate the upper canopy down to the pods lower on the plant?

Our trials have showed better performance at 100-150 litres of water - this is due to the top pods being the most susceptible to shatter (weather and mechanical). You should not need to penetrate the canopy for best results.

If the pesticide label states you need to go higher than 200 litres of water (Diquat) it is worth upping the Pod-Stik to 1.5 l/ha.