Sawbench still not cutting right

[Thick Farmer]

Sounds to me like the blade is spinning on the grip plates and slowing down (hence the heat in the centre of the blade). Its then causing the belt to slip as the blade catches up.

 

[Kidds]

Sounds to me like the blade is spinning on the grip plates and slowing down (hence the heat in the centre of the blade). Its then causing the belt to slip as the blade catches up.

How does it do that when it is pinned?

 

[davidroberts30]

How does it do that when it is pinned?

Is the pin in????

 

[Hawkes]

@Hawkes you got any ideas?

Hi sounds like you still have troubles, if it is getting hot and the heat is not coming from the bearing and shaft then the centre of the blade is rubbing on something. Either the alignment is still out, the alignment of the blade in relation to the tables , or a guide is rubbing against it? If you put a string line down the roller track and pull it really tight. are the rollers all in a straight line and dead level all the way(crossways and lengthways)? On a Stenner the tables have a pair of pieces of flat bolted underneath that straddle the outside run of rollers. If the rollers are misaligned the tables do a wiggle as they move along, they will try to move the log sideways or twist while it is going through the saw and rub it. Once you are sure they are perfect, check the saw is aligned with the track. It should have a slight lead rather than be parallel. This keeps the saw in the work, clears the middle slightly , but importantly gives clearance on the return too.
Check your tip speed, this is important, it will not cut well going too slow. Too fast equally bad! Both can cause heat.
The collars that hold the saw on are important, they should grip the saw at the circumference of the collar, not all the way across. They are made intentionally with a clearance in the middle. When you mount the blade just nip up the collars, put a marker by a saw tip on the table. Tighten the collar up fully, if the blade moves sideways at the tip, the collars need attention.
Are the guides set correctly? The back set are only there to stop the saw from hitting the tables if it gets a wobble on, the front set need to be as close to the blade as you can get without touching it, they will cause heat if run tight.
If EPS sharpened the teeth for you as well then they should be square, mis-sharpened insert teeth will cause the saw to run off course following the angle and that will cause troubles, it is very important to sharpen absolutely square.
I would start off with line and level and go back to the basics of setting it up. You will get there and you will have fixed it yourself!
Old benches can be awkward, they will go perfectly for days and then throw a spaz, something has moved, sagged or fallen off. Stick at it, we have all been there!

 

[Jsmith2211]

Hi sounds like you still have troubles, if it is getting hot and the heat is not coming from the bearing and shaft then the centre of the blade is rubbing on something. Either the alignment is still out, the alignment of the blade in relation to the tables , or a guide is rubbing against it? If you put a string line down the roller track and pull it really tight. are the rollers all in a straight line and dead level all the way(crossways and lengthways)? On a Stenner the tables have a pair of pieces of flat bolted underneath that straddle the outside run of rollers. If the rollers are misaligned the tables do a wiggle as they move along, they will try to move the log sideways or twist while it is going through the saw and rub it. Once you are sure they are perfect, check the saw is aligned with the track. It should have a slight lead rather than be parallel. This keeps the saw in the work, clears the middle slightly , but importantly gives clearance on the return too.
Check your tip speed, this is important, it will not cut well going too slow. Too fast equally bad! Both can cause heat.
The collars that hold the saw on are important, they should grip the saw at the circumference of the collar, not all the way across. They are made intentionally with a clearance in the middle. When you mount the blade just nip up the collars, put a marker by a saw tip on the table. Tighten the collar up fully, if the blade moves sideways at the tip, the collars need attention.
Are the guides set correctly? The back set are only there to stop the saw from hitting the tables if it gets a wobble on, the front set need to be as close to the blade as you can get without touching it, they will cause heat if run tight.
If EPS sharpened the teeth for you as well then they should be square, mis-sharpened insert teeth will cause the saw to run off course following the angle and that will cause troubles, it is very important to sharpen absolutely square.
I would start off with line and level and go back to the basics of setting it up. You will get there and you will have fixed it yourself!
Old benches can be awkward, they will go perfectly for days and then throw a spaz, something has moved, sagged or fallen off. Stick at it, we have all been there!

What sort of a lead should i be looking for? When i measured the alignment with my dial guage (i bought one for my metal lathe) it measured to 2mm difference from end to end, with the back end (return not cutting side of saw if that makes any sense at all) was closer to the handle side of the bench than the leading edge, which was closer to the pulley. Is that roughly right or is that what is causing it? Also the shaft being worn at that other bearing next to the pulley, could that throw all the alignment out?

 

[Hawkes]

It depends on the diameter of the saw but if say a 4ft 6" then about 1/16" or a bit under, would be a start. I usually set mine up parallel and then just tweak it a bit. Too much will obviously cause trouble too. When you are sawing are you producing parallel boards or do they tend to taper off smaller at end of cut? Are they the same thickness top to bottom?
I will try and attach a fault finder pdf, not sure if it will work.View attachment Troubleshooter.pdf

 

[startinghandle]

Could you be looking in wrong place to find fault?
When did you last change fuel and air filter on tractor?
I have saw bench powered by petter
PH1 and it cuts a lot better if I put
200-1 ratio of universal 2 stroke oil to fuel in tank

 

[Jsmith2211]

Could you be looking in wrong place to find fault?
When did you last change fuel and air filter on tractor?
I have saw bench powered by petter
PH1 and it cuts a lot better if I put
200-1 ratio of universal 2 stroke oil to fuel in tank

the tractor doesnt slow and is not the problem. the problem is that the belt slips off of the pulley, after bogging the tractor down a little bit. the blade gets extremely hot and wont cut through an oak log. the 135 has just had a recent engine rebuild and has more power than our 575, so the tractor not having enough power is definitely not the problem.

 

[startinghandle]

the tractor doesnt slow and is not the problem. the problem is that the belt slips off of the pulley, after bogging the tractor down a little bit. the blade gets extremely hot and wont cut through an oak log. the 135 has just had a recent engine rebuild and has more power than our 575, so the tractor not having enough power is definitely not the problem.

Ok... that's my lot other than you haven't got the tractor lined up if the belt is coming off

 

[Jsmith2211]

Ok... that's my lot other than you haven't got the tractor lined up if the belt is coming off

yes that is quite possible. However it does not explain the heating of the eye of the blade.

 

[AftonShepherd]

Blade has a pin like this one shows so I don't think it would be slipping?

Sounds like it can't be slipping but symptoms sound like it is. Is it worth marking the collar and the blade to see if there is any relative movement?

 

[startinghandle]

yes that is quite possible. However it does not explain the heating of the eye of the blade.

If the belt is not lined up square there is straining on the shaft which could be reason it is getting hot
Also have you greased shaft bearings?

 

[renewablejohn]

yes that is quite possible. However it does not explain the heating of the eye of the blade.

It explains everything. Your pulling the belt off because there is play in the drive belt pulley bearing allowing the shaft to twist in the other bearing which holds the blade. If the shaft is not square to the bench its allowing the centre of the blade to catch on the bench.
If it was mine I would reduce the belt tension and run with a crossed belt. I would also make sure there is no play in the bearings and the drive shaft is exactly at right angles to the blade without catching the saw bed anywhere whilst the bench is under tension from the tractor.

 

[renewablejohn]

Hope this helps as its a copy of a manual I was given with my rack saw which goes through the basics.
View attachment racksaw.pdf

 

[renewablejohn]

How does it do that when it is pinned?

I would only ever use the pin hole in the carry case to take the blade to a saw doctor. The blade is supposed to slip as last resort in the flanges if for instance the blade hit a metal spike. Well at least my blades do as the flanges never have pins in them.

 

[2wheels]

is there enough set on the teeth?

 

[Jsmith2211]

is there enough set on the teeth?

These teeth don't have set I am told