- Location
- Near Beeston Castle
The fact it had a handbrake was what got me.A 4 cylinder Gardner in a Ferguson?
I'm just a dad out of my depth now .........
Fill me in someone, please ........
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The fact it had a handbrake was what got me.A 4 cylinder Gardner in a Ferguson?
I'm just a dad out of my depth now .........
Fill me in someone, please ........
I dont think "Little" is a word that can be used to describe any Gardner! Short or long maybe, but the bits in between varied only in the number! 2, 4,6, cyls! Good engines if a bit dated. I won several tots when in HMS Protector being able to start the 6LW generator engines on the starting handle.
But will he (your friend) thank you for a full rebuild and all the hassle that entails for you, probably not?
To my mind, you have no choice, it has to have a full rebuild, if you dont, and things go wrong later, you will have no warranty to fall back on. Strip it, list the parts and get a written order for the work. Dont lay yourself open to comebacks.Probably not. Particularly as he is a non engineer who doesn't understand the implications. Veering back to a journal polish and new set of shells. Agree that anything more could open up a major can of worms. Have found cracked blocks on my own engines before now doing a complete stripdown. Take it on the chin if its your own, but it isn't easy to explain to others that it not worth continuing with it.
Don't particularly feel like busting a gut for somebody elses machine either, particularly as I have plenty on.
To my mind, you have no choice, it has to have a full rebuild, if you dont, and things go wrong later, you will have no warranty to fall back on. Strip it, list the parts and get a written order for the work. Dont lay yourself open to comebacks.
To my mind, you have no choice, it has to have a full rebuild, if you dont, and things go wrong later, you will have no warranty to fall back on. Strip it, list the parts and get a written order for the work. Dont lay yourself open to comebacks.
Got a Tef to do here and similar quandary, runs fine but does breath a little, doing the whole tractor up as it has been sat in a shed for 20yrs, replace pistons/liners? I am going to then I know it's all 100% right.
Got a Tef to do here and similar quandary, runs fine but does breath a little, doing the whole tractor up as it has been sat in a shed for 20yrs, replace pistons/liners? I am going to then I know it's all 100% right.
As I said, strip it down and check it, then if you find a scrap crank, you can tell the owner. Just agree to do an examination first, and set the price for that.But if I just whip the sump off, polish the big end journals and replace the shells and put the sump back on and it runs without knocking then he will be satisfied. If something else then goes wrong, which it might, then he'll be made to understand that its another problem, which it is. I wont be giving a warranty anyway. I'll be explaining that I am doing a cheap and cheerful minimum intervention to get it running for light duty again and that if another problem arises then it will need a complete refurb with all the risks and costs associated with it.
However, if I do a full refurb at the outset and find for example that the crank has already been taken down to the min, then I'm in a corner. Its either going to cost a lot in time and parts or it isn't worth continuing with it and I wont be thanked either way. And Ive often found a lot of complete refurbs end up costing a lot more and taking a lot longer than I ever anticipated. And with a machine of that age its surprising how many seized studs, sheared off bolts etc can add hours and pounds to the job. Sometimes its best to let sleeping dogs lie.
As I said, strip it down and check it, then if you find a scrap crank, you can tell the owner. Just agree to do an examination first, and set the price for that.
He will be satisfied. Until something else goes wrong! To protect yourself, you must get a written order for any work you do, and dont think not offering a warranty lets you out, it doesnt, even if you win any court action you still end up out of pocket. I have worked in the motor trade for years and you get comebacks often years after the original job. More than once I have heard complaints such as, "Since you did the engine, the handbrake has stopped working" If you fit a rebuild kit, and any problems show up, its the suppliers problem, polish the crank, and it throws a rod in a years time, it will still be your problem
I'll re-build it top to bottom for 2k!!! (the engine that is!)
if i remember correct the rods are to big to come up the bore so it would be crank out if you need to take out pistonsConsidering whether it is worth attempting reconditioning above engine in our workshop. The engine has run a big end.
Most of it looks doable and would send the head away etc, but reading the workshop manual it goes through the procedure for reaming the small ends. I don't have the necessary reaming tools or knowledge to ream them out. With modern manufacturing techniques, will the small end bushes be supplied at sufficient precision not to need reaming or do they still need reaming out after fitting? I don't recall reaming the small ends when I rebuilt the Lambo engine two years ago. Just fitted new ones and they seemed OK.
Any other difficulties or peculiarities likely to be encountered?
Just asking before I rave it apart. Tempted to just take the offending big end off, emery the journal and fit new shells and leave it at that like we did on the diesel which ran for many more years on light saw bench duties.
Thanks.
As I said, strip it down and check it, then if you find a scrap crank, you can tell the owner. Just agree to do an examination first, and set the price for that.
He will be satisfied. Until something else goes wrong! To protect yourself, you must get a written order for any work you do, and dont think not offering a warranty lets you out, it doesnt, even if you win any court action you still end up out of pocket. I have worked in the motor trade for years and you get comebacks often years after the original job. More than once I have heard complaints such as, "Since you did the engine, the handbrake has stopped working" If you fit a rebuild kit, and any problems show up, its the suppliers problem, polish the crank, and it throws a rod in a years time, it will still be your problem
2K!!!!!!!! The Perkins in my Leyland cost less the £700.00 and that included a brand new cyl head!If I do a full rebuild and it costs at least £1000,, probably more, and then it still goes wrong I very much doubt the supplier of the refurb kit will want to know about it. The customer will be pretty upset as well.
In any case, once I've got the big end bearing caps off I will call the customer in and we'll make a joint decision to move forward based on what we find. It'll be the customers call. Either proceed with a minimal low cost repair admittedly with some risk of another failure or go for a full refurb at maybe up to £2k on the engine of a 53 year old tractor that does a bit of grass cutting at the weekend, also with the risk that a crack is discovered or created somewhere that effectively writes the engine off.
In any case the customer is a friend. He doesn't understand the details of engineering but I can speak with him frankly and so my best for a realistic cost.
But it all depends what we find.